Horse Rein: The Steering Wheel of Riding

The rein is like a paintbrush in the art of horse riding. Good reins facilitate guidance, while poor ones can lead to disastrous rides. Various reins are available, including clip-on reins for versatility and leather-laced reins for improved grip control. It’s important to choose reins that are comfortable in the hands and leave enough space for two fingers between the rein and palm. Keep in mind that stylish or modern-looking reins may not necessarily indicate quality.

Halters For Horses: A Must-Have Accessory

Halters for horses are functional and can enhance your equestrian style by adding color pops or chic colors like pink or black. However, when appropriately matched, plain brown leather halters can bring sophistication to your appearance while offering good control over your horse. Comfort and minimalism are key features to consider when choosing halters to ensure they don’t cause irritation to the horse or have weak points that could come undone during rides, leading to accidents.

Bits: For Effective Communication

Bits serve as the voice box in horse riding, enabling riders to communicate effectively with their horses non-verbally. They come in different materials like rubber or steel, but they can feel rougher than our tongues, potentially triggering reactions that may seem aggressive, depending on their purpose. Quality bits can be found, and if affordability isn’t a concern, sweet metal bits that release copper ions upon contact with saliva can give horses a pleasant taste as they interact with them.

Chukka Boots: Because Style Matters Too

A well-dressed rider complements a well-dressed horse. For men, a pair of Chukka boots can showcase their style. When riding in pairs, it’s ideal for both riders’ boots to match in leather, but they don’t have to be identical. Comfort and durability should take precedence over fashion regarding Chukka boots. Designed for versatile terrain, they should be long-lasting and sturdy, ensuring safety and keeping feet comfortable regardless of the rough terrain.

Riding Helmet: Safety First

This may seem common sense, but it’s worth reiterating: Never ride a horse without wearing a suitable helmet. Equestrian activities can turn dangerous within seconds if something goes wrong. Reviewing your equipment before heading out on a trail ride or during training is always important. When selecting a helmet, prioritize its protective functions over its design. Look for markings like ASTM (American Society for Testing Materials) that signify reliability and ensure maximum protection under rigorous conditions.

In conclusion, every equestrian equipment should balance style and functionality. This balance is crucial in this art form, creating an unforgettable experience of adventure and pleasure. Remember to invest in high-quality horse equipment that prioritizes the rider and horse’s safety and comfort. Whether you’re a professional equestrian or an amateur, always prioritize functionality and effectiveness over aesthetics. Enjoy your rides, and happy riding!

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Keep a cosy temperature

Whatever the weather, ensure your horse stays warm and dry all year round with appropriate rugs chosen depending on their age, lifestyle, living conditions and health. A popular option is turnout rugs as they can be used throughout the spring, summer and autumn when weather is milder, being ideal for horses who spend their days outdoors. A turnout rug will protect them from the dirt and rain whilst allowing the skin to breathe but as the weather gets colder, a thicker fleece rug with waterproof properties will help retain their body heat so they can stay comfortable all year round.

Provide the necessary nutrition

Nutritional needs will vary depending on body weight, health and levels of activity, meaning there is no one size fits all solution when it comes to horse feed. Daily feed should include all of the necessary nutrition required and additional supplements provided if necessary, complementing constant access to hay or pasture for grazing. In addition to food, clean, fresh water should always be available and needs to be changed on a daily basis; to keep it fresh and easy for you, we recommend using metal or plastic containers.

Maintain a clean and tidy coat

Regular grooming with a body brush, main comb and horse shampoo will ensure that excess hair is removed, keeping the coat clean and tidy by removing any dirt that has been picked up during the day. Your horse’s body will naturally grow longer if it needs to stay warm, but many horse owners opt to rug their horse as this makes the coat much more manageable and prevent excess growth. Grooming is also an important opportunity to spot any sores, wounds or health concerns.

Safe riding precautions

Ensure you have the necessary equipment for riding, whether you attend regular races and events or you prefer to enjoy a leisurely ride around the local area. The safety of yourself and your horse is a number one priority so avoid cutting corners and purchase the necessary safety gear to minimise risk. For the rider, a helmet, body protection and high visibility clothing should be used and your horse tack should include a saddle, saddle pad, bridle and stirrups. Saddle pads in a range of styles will provide optimal comfort and support for your horse during rides. Other essential accessories to consider include protective boots for your horse’s legs, a properly fitting bit for the bridle, and grooming tools to maintain your horse’s coat and hooves.

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Marketing your horse will primarily depend on its breed, value, and discipline. The first person to consult when contemplating selling your animal is your trainer or riding lesson instructor. Most horse trainers have a barn full of clientele, and some may be looking for a horse like yours, or know someone who is. The same goes for your instructor. These people are also familiar with your horse, and know what type of situation would best suit the animal. You can also be assured as an owner that your animal will probably be placed in a good environment, if it is one that was recommended by these equine professionals.

Should there be no immediate leads on a potential buyer, marketing will be your next step. Your horse trainer should be willing to market your horse for you, and this will require a commission to be paid on your behalf. Usually this fee ranges from 7.5% through 15%. Making videos of the animal working and running loose should be done, as well as placing him on the trainer’s website under sales. He can also aid you in deciding on the asking price. Remember, if there is a bottom line figure that you need, be sure and add the commission on top of that. You may also want to give yourself room to bargain.

Making up flyers is another way to get the word out about your horse. Include a professional photo, if available, and a description of the horse. Size, age, color, temperament, discipline, breed, sex, and any competition record are necessary pieces of information. You may want to place the price of the animal on the flyers, as no price often leads people to believe it is high. Placing these flyers at horse shows, tack shops, feed mills, and veterinarians’ offices are a good place to start.

The internet is a great resource for marketing your horse. Most breeds offer their own websites, complete with classified sections. These websites are especially advantageous, as people who surf them are generally knowledgeable about the breed and genuinely interested in it. These sites also have horses that range in price and discipline, so the chance that your horse will fit in is good. There are also general sales sites that are very effective. Ask your “horsey” friends or trainers which ones they like. Remember, pictures are a wonderful tool, and include them whenever possible. Breed affiliated magazines have classified sections as well. They can be a bit more expensive to work with, so consult with the publication before making any decisions.

You want to make sure that you are protected in any sale, and should have a sales contract made up. Sample forms can be found on the internet, or your trainer or instructor may already have them made up. Most contracts verify the condition of the animal as of the date of sale. They also guarantee pedigree and intent to transfer any registration papers and awards programs that the animal is enrolled in. Encourage the buyer to have a pre-purchase examine performed, as this will further reduce any claim they could possibly have against you for negligence.

Before releasing your horse, find out about the buyers. Make sure the animal will be well cared for. And be sure that they are not buying a horse that they cannot handle or will disappoint them. Often, horses are abused because they are expected to perform in ways that they are not ready for or trained to do. Make sure the buyer knows exactly what he is getting. Both he and your horse will be better off for it.

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The history of the Quarter Horse stems from the Godolphin Arabian (Arabian horses are the foundation of many of the breeds known in the world today). The grandson of this horse, a Thoroughbred named Janus, was imported into colonial Virginia in 1756, and was crossed with the Chickasaw horses, which were developed by Native Americans, crossing Spanish, Barb, and Arabian bloodstock. This cross proved to be very successful, resulting in the “Quarter Mile Horses,” an animal that could travel over a quarter mile distance faster than any other in the world.

The body structure of the Quarter Horse is small and sturdy, making it handy enough to perform real work, and quick enough to race. Wide set shoulders and low hocks make this breed especially capable of quick turnarounds, sliding stops, and extreme athleticism. These characteristics make the Quarter Horse desirable for cutting cattle, barrel racing, jumping, and virtually any other job that requires quick maneuvering. This ability to perform working western operations came through yet another cross into the breed of “Quarter Mile Horses.” During Westward Expansion, settlers bred the Mustang in with the breed, creating a horse with ultimate “cow sense.”

This became an unmistakable trait of the Quarter Horse, proving themselves indispensable on large cattle operations in the Midwest, even after the automobile was invented. After a long week of hard work, most cattlemen brought their “Quarter Mile Horses” together on weekends, to race. Thoroughbred blood was once again infused into the mix, along with Arabian, Morgan and Standardbred. These breeds added refinement, quickness, agility, and hardiness to the “Quarter Mile Horse,” until it became the breed we know today.

The American Quarter Horses Association (AQHA) was founded in 1940 in attempts by cattlemen to preserve the integrity of their ranch horses. Many of the early foundation sires that were recorded were Thoroughbreds, and the book remains open to Quarter Horse/Thoroughbred crosses, as well as Thoroughbreds themselves. These animals must meet conformational and performance criteria, and are known as Appendix Quarter Horses until such time as they receive a permanent registration number.

Quarter Horses make great family pets as well as great show horses. They are generally quiet animals, who are good natured and willing. The show type quarter horse is usually distinguishable in two categories, those that will excel in halter and those that are more of the working type. This type is also known as the stock type, and is much more muscular, stocky, compact, and yet agile. These types of Quarter Horses are very athletic, performing well as working horses, whether on the ranch or performing reining patterns. The halter or racing type is a much larger animal with more refinement. They maintain the muscular appearance, but with smaller heads, wider jowls, and a feminine type of muzzle. These Quarter Horses resemble the modern Thoroughbred, and also excel in jumping and dressage events. No matter which type of Quarter Horse you encounter, they all maintain the breed standards through their speed, grace, power, and agility.

A Quarter Horse can be found in a variety of colors, with chestnut or sorrel being the most common. Buckskins, palominos, grays, blacks, bays, roans, and pintos are also known colors of registered Quarter Horses. All horses are blood typed and their DNA is verified at the time of registration in order to ensure pedigree.

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Horses buck for a variety of reasons. A horse that has been confined for a long period of time, or even one that just has excess energy will buck to relieve tension, boredom, and stress. A horse with energy to burn will play before taking work seriously, and this behavior should be understood, not punished. If your horse needs to vent before getting down to business, the fault is usually with the handler for not providing enough stimulation for the horse in the form of exercise. Lunging your horse before riding or working him will allow the horse time to release energy. This is a good way for the animal to get limber and play, without the rider having to tug and pull at the mouth in an effort to control or reprimand the animal. Why waste time and frustration on this when you can simply lunge the animal for ten minutes before riding?

When first training a horse to ride, bucking usually will come up at one point or another. When a girth is first placed around a horse, he will often buck. This will usually take place when the animal moves forward, especially at the lope or canter. If the girth is introduced slowly enough and the horse accepts it willing, they will usually not buck at the walk or trot. When first applying the girth, keep them on a lunge line in a round pen where you can try to control their gait. If you contain the horse at a trot for a while until he gets used to the pressure of the girth, the chances are good that he will not want to buck when moving into the canter. If the trainer takes the time to train the animal slowly and without instilling any fear into the horse, bucking can be avoided all together.

Horses that buck under saddle or sporadically may be responding to a variety of stimuli. Firstly, if the horse has been successful in throwing riders from bucking, he may have learned that this is a good way to get what he wants. Normally, this animal will need to be started all over, from scratch. He needs to learn to give in to pressure, starting with the bit and leg commands, and moving into the saddle. A professional trainer would be best suited for this task.

Bucking for no reason or out of nowhere usually means that the animal is in pain or has been frightened. If a horse is startled, especially from behind, they are responding instinctually by bucking or kicking out. A horse’s hindquarters are the most powerful, and are his first line of defense. Horses can spook at almost anything, so acclimating the horse to many different objects or circumstances can help desensitize the animal. Horses can also buck in response to pain. A horse will buck if the saddle is tight or pinchy, or if the girth is too tight. Girth sores and dirty pads can also irritate a horse, so be sure to check your equipment before tacking. A horse that bucks only at the canter, and is usually an amiable companion, should have his front ankles checked. Some horses relieve front ankle pain through bucking at the canter.

If all else fails, consult your local vet or trainer. Stress, injury, and ulcers can also cause a horse to misbehave by bucking, so have these things looked into if the problem persists.

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Bolting can be the result of being spooked. Horses are flight animals, meaning they run away from scary or harmful situations. This is a natural instinct, and can be hard to retrain. Horses can be spooked by anything. A deer on the trail, a bird in the bushes, a bag blowing on the ground, a car’s horn, even some stationary object that is not usually there can be a scary proposition for a horse.

Improperly fitted tack can also make a horse bolt. A saddle that pinches at the withers or rubs that back can be painful, and horses run from pain. Bridles that are too tight around the poll can put pressure on the nerves in the horses face, as well as make the mouth sore. Check the bit that you are using. Harsh bits that are in untrained hands can make even the most broke horse upset, causing him to try and alleviate his discomfort any way he can. Girthing your horse can also cause your horse stress. A girth can be too tight, so be sure your horse is comfortable before you mount. It is not necessary to use all of your strength to cinch a girth. A clean and comfortable saddle pad is also a good idea. A pad with crusty sweat, dirt, or other particles can suddenly irritate a horse.

Some horse may bolt simply because they do not want or are afraid of being ridden. This can an especially dangerous situation, and should be handled by a professional in severe cases. These horses may not have been trained adequately or were scared or intimidated in the training process. In some instances it may be necessary to start from scratch.

In training a horse, the most important thing to do is to create a good mouth. This will come in handy for years to come, especially if the animal ever gets scared and bolts. A good mouth is a responsive mouth. Introduce bridles, tack, and training slowly. Some people prefer to “sack out” a horse. This technique can involve various objects being tied to the horse’s saddle and lunging him until he becomes comfortable with them. If the horse bolts when you try to mount, practice pretending to mount by lifting your leg into the stirrup until the horse accepts this by standing still. Then add the step of putting your weight into the stirrup and lifting yourself up. Repeat this step until your horse is at ease, until you can move into swinging the other leg over. Patience is your friend in this effort.

If you are in a situation with a bolting horse, you may need to utilize the one rein stop method. By just pulling back on both reins evenly, the horse can lean on that even pressure, or even grab the bit in his teeth, yielding your efforts useless. No human is going to out match the strength of a horse. By just pulling on one rein, the pressure is unevenly distributed in the horse’s mouth, and he cannot take advantage of this. Slowly pull the horse’s head to your leg. Making circles will also slow the animal into a stop.

A bolting horse can become a trusting companion; it will just take time and dedication on both of your parts.

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With horses, there is no societal interchange, and therefore horses are either leaders or followers. As far as humans go, we must establish ourselves as leasers of our horses, or we will be forever fighting a losing battle. Once this position is established, our horses will willingly follow us, as it is comfortable to them to have a leader.

Establishing this position is done through understanding and discipline. We must not be afraid to discipline our horses, or they will take complete advantage of the situation. Discipline can fall into a variety of categories, but a response to pressure covers most of them. Humans apply pressure to an animal in various ways, and if the horse responds correctly, the pressure is released. This is their reward.

A simple example of the pressure theory is with reins. If you pull on the left rein, the horse feels that pressure in his mouth. When he yields his head or body (depending on what was required), the pressure subsides, rewarding the horse for performing the desired command.

Horses naturally move into pressure. When in a herd, a horse will move toward the hindquarters of another horse in order to soften the blow of a kick. More damage can be down when distance allows more force. This relates to training, but in some cases, the opposite reaction is warranted. Pulling on the left rein and going left work well with natural instincts, but moving away from leg pressure does not. A horse will want to move into your left leg when you use it, when actually you want the horse to move away from it and go right. Do not get frustrated by this response, as it is your horse’s natural instinct. Just keep practicing the turn with the right rein, and implementing the left leg in order to encourage the body to follow. After repetition, your horse will learn to understand.

Another way to practice this from the ground before mounting is with a lunge line and whip. By holding the line with your right hand, and whip in your left, encourage your horse to move around you in a clockwise direction. This may be most easily accomplished in a round open at first. Hold the whip against your horse’s flank or rump, getting him used to that pressure. He may try to back up into it, but keep encouraging him to move forward. Do not stand still, nor at the horse’s shoulder, but rather at the hip in order to further this progression. Your horse will eventually learn to move away from pressure. Understanding that your horse is not unruly, just confused, will help both of you train peacefully and thoroughly.

Pressure is also the basis for corrective behavior in other areas. If your horse is charging or unresponsive on the ground, using a chain over his nose can remedy the situation in a few quick sessions. When the horse acts disrespectful, giving a moderate jerk of the rope will apply pressure to his nose, forcing him to back off. He will not like this, and after learning to walk next to you gently, you will be able to return to a regular snap end lead.

Learning to understand a horse’s response to his environment and his leader can be fun and rewarding for you both. It will ensure a better relationship and a happy work environment.

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Riding without reins is a step that is taken from the beginning of training. Using leg and seat aids in conjunction with rein cues signify that the horse should associate one with the other. Eventually the horse will learn to respond to a change in seat or leg cue the same way he would respond to a tug of the rein.

Many horses, as well as some riders, want to believe that a leg command means that the horse should move forward or increase speed. While there are some instances where this is true, training the horse that legs do not mean go is the first thing a young horse should learn. Horses are taught to move away from leg pressure, turning right when the left leg is applied. This does not mean to speed up while turning, and the rein should be used as a block until the horse grasps this concept. Keep turning the horse in smaller circles until he remains at a constant speed. Remember to bump the right rein to encourage this direction while keeping the left rein taught enough so that the horse can feel the pressure against his neck. If you utilize the right rein solely, the horse is apt to turn right while allowing his ribs and hips to fall to the left, or outside. Encourage the body to follow the head with the leg aids and by using both reins.

When asking the horse to set his head, a person will bump the reins of a curb bit, or run a snaffle. While doing this, use your heels to encourage the horse to lift up it’s back. One way to simulate this exercise in an easy to learn fashion is to do the same thing while backing the horse. When asking to back, bump your feet against the sides of the horse. Do so faster to encourage him to back quickly, slower when you want him to slow. A horse needs to raise his back and lower his head to back, and eventually this will equate to the same cue being asked when moving forward. Now when you use your heals at the same time as the rein aid, your horse should simultaneously raise his back, set his head, and slow down; all in expectation of the back.

When asking your horse to stop, the backing exercise will again help. First, say ‘whoa’”, use your rein aid, and push your feet out in front of you while pushing down with your seat. These are the cues utilized by most reining horses. Finishing this process with the backing exercise will instill the technique in your horse. He will eventually learn to recognize the position of your feet and seat as the command for stopping. You should also be able to back him with just the bumping of your feet.

After repeating these techniques over the course of months, even years, your horse should eventually stop, turn, and respond to any command without reins. No matter what activities you and your horse indulge in, he will become more responsive to you and your cues, and they will be subtler. This type of training will impress fellow equine enthusiasts, as well as prepare your horse for a flawless show ring appearance. Judges do not want to see a rider pulling and tugging at a horse’s mouth in order to garner a response.

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If you turn out a horse by itself in order to prevent her from being injured by other horses in the field, you may be doing more harm than good. A horse will present loneliness by excessive whinnying or pacing the fence lines. Both of these signs cause stress to the horse, which can lead to ulcers. Stomach ulcers present through a loss of appetite, the horse becomes a hard keeper; hair coat becomes dull; behavioral or training problems arise; horse tries to bite or kick during girthing; lack of enthusiasm for work. In order to properly diagnose a horse with ulcers, a scope is performed by your vet, which allows a visual picture of the stomach and esophagus to be seen. Ulcers can range from grade one through five. Proven treatments involve a medication called Gastroguard. Ulcers will not clear up if left untreated. They are suspected to be present in up to 90% of the equine population, and can be fatal if left untreated.

Pacing can also put unnecessary strain on a horse’s legs. Joint and tendon damage can result from this type of repetitive wear. Ringbone can also be a problem, which results from the constant turning that strains her ligaments. These types of degenerative issues will result in the lameness of your animal, and treatments will range from stall rest (up to six months in some cases), to shock wave therapy, pain relievers, and steroids.

If you cannot afford to have another companion for your horse, a smaller, less expensive animal may be the answer. Many horses will respond to a small pony, goat, donkey, or llama. If this is not a feasible option, placing an advertisement for a boarder may be the answer. Adding one or two boarded horses to your barn may give both you and your horse a peace of mind. Responsibilities can be shared, as well as expenses.

If all else fails, there are medical or herbal remedies that you can try to soothe your lonely horse. One such treatment is Ignatia, which can be given to calm those experiencing separation anxiety. There are other types of relaxants that can be given by your veterinarian, so consult him before beginning any type of medicinal therapy on your horse.

An unhappy horse will make for an unhappy owner. She may become unwilling, mean, or listless. Making your horse happy will ensure that she is willing to perform the required work for you to the best of her ability.

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If at all possible, start your search well in advance of the date you would like to move. It is never a good idea to go somewhere just because they are the only ones with room. Most barns and stables will know in advance if someone is leaving, or will be able to hold an open slot with some sort of deposit.

Contacting local feed stores, tack stores, riding clubs or breed affiliations is a good place to start. They may be able to give you tips on finding places with available space. They will also know through word of mouth who runs a good stable and whom to avoid. Most local feed stores deliver, and thus see the environmental conditions of the barn weekly, in addition to what goes on while they are there. Breed or discipline affiliations are also especially helpful. It is often very difficult to place a horse of one breed in a barn full of another breed. Breed characteristics vary, and require different types of training and behavior management. Make sure that your horse is in capable hands, with people who are used to dealing with his specific needs.

Once you have settled on a few decent places, there are a group of qualities that you should look for, as well as questions that need to be asked. When you go on your initial visits, try to give vague or general ideas as to when you may be arriving. This way you are more apt to walk in on the events as they unfold day to day.

Here is a checklist of things that you should look for:

• Cleanliness of water buckets
• Amount of water in both indoor and outdoor waters
• Quality of the hay and grain
• Physical condition of the stalls
• Cleanliness of the stalls
• Footing in the riding arenas
• Safety of any available trails
• Condition of fence lines
• Adequate lighting
• Inspect the general condition of the animals that are currently there – look at hooves, hair coat, eyes, and overall attitude

There is also an important checklist of questions:

• Who lives on the property? Will someone be here at all times in case of emergency?
• How often do you feed? If your horse gets additional supplements, ask if that will be a problem.
• If your horse is going to spend time a pasture, will he have others with him? What is the policy if another animal injures your horse?
• Are the horses fed additional hay and grain if they live outdoors?
• How often does the farrier come?
• Who is the vet that they use? How far away is the nearest clinic?
• What are the hours of operation?
• What are the safety policies?
• Are riding lessons or training available?

These questions will get you a general idea of what to expect, and whether or not this is the right place for both you and your horse. As long as the environment as well as the people appear animal friendly and these basic guidelines are met, you should both be happy.

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