You might have heard about a diversity  of pets since ages, but Tadpoles were not so common., The scenario has changed, Tadpole is now on the high popularity list  among the pet hobbyists. The quick development in their growth and transformation into  frogs right in front of your eyes is   fascinating to say the least, besides its simultaneous significance educationally.

Hence raising them in a house with kids will impart a great knowledge about their life cycle and evolution.You can buy a live, grow a frog Tadpole  kit in order to raise your own frogs as a fun project for your kids.

How to Raise Tadpoles at Home

Though it is not very difficult to grow a Tadpole, a little knowledge about  the right requirements and arrangements will go a long way to make sure that you have healthy and thriving tadpoles to give you pleasure all the way.

Water

The essential part in growing healthy tadpoles is clean water. They prefer dechlorinated and clean water like distilled or bottled water. If you decide to use tap water, make sure you keep it inert in the container for more than 24 hours before use. Like fishes, these creatures also expect some minimum water parameters, such as the pH level of the water at around 7.0 for their survival, and a temperature of around 45 to 75 degree F. The Tadpoles grow well in a warm temperature; hence the frogs are seen mating during the spring or summer. Similarly, the frogs lay eggs in a habitat where, the water is slightly alkaline, and is filled with fallen leaf debris, rotting branches, and other dying parts of the trees, rich in tannins. Tannins are basically acidic that turns the water acidic too. The other levels like the ammonia and nitrite level should be kept in check, as they can even kill the Tadpoles. The other most important thing is a filter. As suggested, these creatures require clean water, so the water quality should be maintained. There are chances of water getting polluted by the food remains and other debris, which should be regularly cleaned. On a weekly basis, change the water, but only up to 25 percent, or it make affect the pH level and thereby disturb the Tadpoles. Around 5 to 8 Tadpoles are perfect in one gallon of water. Do not overcrowd the tank, as Tadpoles require more space as they grow.

Food

Like fishes, the Tadpoles also like to eat small insects, vegetables and frozen food. Most of the biological experts opine that small Tadpoles like to eat tiny worms, insects and sometimes even each other. You can provide boiled spinach and lettuce, as they are very fond of  green veggies. Even the lettuce should be boiled for 10 to 20 minutes, and chopped into small pieces before you feed them. They can also be fed with normal fish food like flakes and blood worms in small quantities. Occasionally, providing a piece of meat or chicken bone is a feast for these creatures. They also love eating cooked egg yolk, which is rich in protein, but it will foul the tank water. Hence, the day you provide the egg yolk, make sure you change the water in the tank. Protein tablets are also available in any of the local pet shops, which you can add to the water. Usually they prefer frozen food, so you can freeze the spinach and lettuce before feeding. The quantity of food provided is also important. For the healthy growth of Tadpoles, regular feeding is a must, but only in small quantities. Over feeding can turn the water dirty, which can again affect their health. Less feeding is also a matter of concern, as they may cannibalize each other..

Housing

A large tank is absolutely fine for raising these fun filled Tadpoles, as they require  a large space for  each step of their growth. You can place 5 to 8 Tadpoles on a single gallon of water, or you can use a fifteen gallon tank for around 25 to 30 Tadpoles. Fill the bottom of the tank with gravel and place large rock pieces in the tank that they use for shelter.  You can also decorate the tank with small grass and weeds by placing it directly along with the roots.

The Tadpoles are seen hanging on the weeds, and sometimes feed on the grass or weed roots. Other than that, placing underwater plants will also ensure proper supply of oxygen for their survival. When placed outdoors, the tank should be covered only 3/4^th part, leaving the  remaining space for the Tadpoles to receive sunlight. While placing indoors, you can provide fluorescent light strips on the wall behind the tank, on the fish tank top.  Provide around 10 to 12 hours of light, and make sure the lights reach the tank. For the top cover, you can use fiberglass of fine mesh net to provide a tight and secured top, and thereby avoid the frogs from jumping outside. Filtered, treated and dechlorinated water must be added up to 3 inches in the tank. To avoid any uncertainties, the best option is to set up the fish tank around 6 weeks before placing the Tadpoles.

Growth

The growth of Tadpoles from eggs to adult frogs is very exciting, especially when we see them turn into big frogs in front of our eyes. The Tadpoles develop from eggs in about 6 to 12 weeks, depending on the climate and temperature. In winter, they tend to grow slowly. At the beginning of the metamorphosis process, the Tadpoles develop back legs at first, followed by the front legs. Along with that many other changes like the development of the lungs, changes in the digestive tract, usually caused due to the change in nature from being herbivorous to carnivorous, changes in the texture of the skin losing gills from its body are simultaneous. In the concluding part of this process, the tail of the Tadpoles shrinks in size and at that period, they consume very little or no food. During the transformation, the Tadpoles will try to emerge out of the water to the land, hence at the beginning, you can add some mud so that they can crawl with their legs. Later, when their gills are transformed completely into the lungs, they will have to climb out of the water or they may get drowned, so you can decrease the water level in the tank, or make a slope of gravel from the land to the water for them to climb. After they are fully developed, you can release the frogs to their native locations from where you acquired them.

Tadpoles, one of the easiest pets to nurture, are very  interactive compared to the Goldfish, a  prime reason for their increasing popularity in the pet world. Now, many pet shops, online traders and other commercial outlets have live Tadpoles for sale, which are much easier to breed.

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What is the nitrogen cycle?

The nitrogen cycle in an aquarium is basically a natural chain reaction that results from various types of nitrifying bacteria. Each type of bacteria has a specific job to perform. The cycle forms when each new bacteria that is born consumes the previous bacteria and then in turn gives birth to the next bacteria in the chain.

There are three components involved in the process. They are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The entire process generally takes about 30 days; although there is no exact time frame for the process to be completed as each aquarium is somewhat different. Factors that can affect the time for your aquarium to cycle include how many fish, other livestock and the organic matter that is present in the tank.

When you are cycling your aquarium it is extremely important to test your aquarium water. This will tell you what phase the tank is in at any give time throughout the process.

Phase 1-The Ammonia Phase

The first component that is needed for the chain is ammonia. Ammonia readings should be present only during the cycling process. Once the ammonia has begun to accumulate in the tank, the process will begin. Ammonia can come from fish and other livestock waste as well as excess food and decaying organic matter from plants and animals. The process of putting live animals into the tank for the specific purpose of cycling can be somewhat tricky. On one hand, the fish will be exposed to the levels of ammonia and nitrate; which can be highly toxic. On the other hand; however, you need the ammonia in order for the cycling process to begin. If you do plan to use fish to cycle your tank, you will need to purchase fish that are extremely durable and hardy to do well during the cycling process. They should also be somewhat inexpensive. Some of the best fish to choose include Damsels or Chromis’. While these fish tend to be somewhat plain looking and some of them can even be aggressive, the good news is that they will work well for the cycling process and then when you are done with them you can either give them to someone else who may be starting a new tank or you can trade them in at your local pet store for fish that are more elegant.

There are other options to begin the cycling process in your tank without using fish. These options include:

Using hermit crabs. These are very hardy animals which are also inexpensive.

Use live sand and/or live rock. Both of these components contain living parts of the reef that will produce the waste needed.

Regardless of which system you use to cycle your aquarium, the process remains the same. Ammonia will occur in two states which depend on the pH of the water. The unionized state, NH³, is more toxic than the ionized state due to it being easier to invade the body tissue of marine animals. When the pH begins to rise the less toxic ionized state will decrease while the more toxic ionized state will rise.

Phase 2

When you are about ten days into the cycle the nitrifying bacteria will convert the ammonia into nitriate and nitrosomonas will begin to appear and built. These can be toxic and harmful to fish at lower levels. Without the nitrite present; however, the cycling process cannot be completed. Nitrite should continue to rise until about day 25; at which time it should begin to fall.

Phase 3

Once the ammonia has given birth to the nitrite, the next step in the cycle will be for the nitrite to give birth to the final bacteria with are nitrobacters. It takes some time for the nitrobacter to absorb the nitrite. During this stage, the toxic is less dangerous than the prior two stages; however, it is important to complete some standard water changes.

By taking the time to understand the importance of the nitrogen cycle, you can keep your water free from the toxic compounds that can result in the loss of your fish too soon.

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Flake foods are widely available in pet stores and are an easy way to feed your fish. Specialty flakes are available, some of which are particularly high in vegetable matter such as Spirulina. This is quite high in protein as well as a good source of the numerous amino acids which can be difficult to otherwise attain for your fish. Keep in mind; however, that in many cases, the commercially dry fish food which is available is not balanced. This is because the vitamin content gradually declines at room temperature and these foods will only keep for about three months. Therefore, it is best to purchase fish food in small packets rather than in large packages.

Freeze-dried foods are available in aquarium stores and are quite different from flake foods. This type of food generally only has a single animal ingredient in each packet; such as blood worms, mosquito larvae, etc. Instead of flakes, this type of food comes in the form of chunks. Alone, freeze-dried foods do not form a complete diet; however, they can help to round out a good basic flake food diet for your fish. The organisms that are freeze-dried and sold as aquarium food can also generally be found as frozen or living; however, the freeze-dried form provides a convenient way to feed your fish that is not available with other forms.

Another food option is home made fish food. This is a less expensive alternative which can be surprisingly easy when you make a batch that is large enough to last for six months or so. The food can be frozen, making it less time consuming and easier. A food processor is needed along with a few basic staples such as unflavored gelatin, vegetable matter and beef heart as well as some multi-vitamin tablets. Once the ingredients are mixed, they can be frozen in separate freezer containers for easier feeding. There are numerous recipes available online which can introduce you to the process of making your own home made fish food. While this might not be a task you wish to undertake as a main source for your fishes diet, it can provide an interesting supplement for their regular food.

When feeding fish it is important to remember that they are cold blooded and as a result they do not require a lot of energy to maintain their body temperatures. Therefore, it is critical that you do not overfeed them. The general rule of thumb is that fish should be fed no more than they can eat in five minutes twice per day. The only exception to this rule is if you maintain territorial fish, such as cichlids. In this case, the fish can monopolize the food and you may need to feed more than usual, so keep this mind.

Knowing your fish can be quite helpful in determining what they should be fed. For example, many fish can either benefit from a vegetable diet or may require one. Plecos, mbuna and silver dollars are all examples of fish which require vegetable diets. The main reason for this is that these fish have very long guts and as a result will develop digestive problems if they do not receive sufficient amounts of roughage in their diets. Most fish; however, can benefit from the addition of some vegetable matter into their diets.

Commercial frozen foods are also widely available today; which options ranging from fish to aquatic insects. Most are quite inexpensive and provide an excellent dietary supplement for all fishes. Your local pet and aquarium store can be a good source for commercial frozen foods.

Understanding your fishes dietary needs and responding to them with an appropriate selection of well balanced foods can help to keep your fishes happy and healthy for a long time.

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Today, many different shape and height of tanks are available, so some thought will need to be given to this as well. Ideally, it is best not to purchase a tank that is deeper than your arm length or you could face difficult maintenance issues. Generally speaking, standard rectangle and bow-fronted aquariums are more suitable as these types of tanks provide the largest surface area in relation to their volume. As a result they provide maximum length for your fish to swim and exercise in. While tall column tanks can be visually interesting, they do make maintenance difficult. In addition, due to the small surface area, in the event of a power shortage, your fish can suffocate. Other options include cylindrical and spherical tanks; however, these types of tanks tend to distort the fish for viewing.

After you have determine the size and shape of tank you prefer, it is time to do some shopping around. While shopping, you will find there are three basic types of aquariums available. These are basic glass tanks, complete set-up tanks and systemized aquariums. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

A basic glass tank is an all-glass tank that is in a word-basic. When purchasing this type of tank you must keep in mind that you will need to purchase everything else needed to complete a fully functioning aquarium separate. This means purchasing the filtration, lighting, thermometer, hood, stand, test kits, heater and more separate. Purchasing these items separately can be more expensive than purchasing a complete set-up; however, it does allow you to purchase exactly what you want.

With a complete set up aquarium, the tank comes with a hood and some equipment and accessories. When purchased this way, you usually get a break on the individual prices. This can be a good option if you are unsure about what you will need when you first start out. Perhaps the only disadvantage is that because the items come together you will not be able to purchase exactly what you want, regardless of manufacturer. In addition, do not allow the term ‘complete set-up’ fool you. You may still need other items such as cleaning equipment, background paper and test kits; which must be purchased separately.

A systemized aquarium has the lighting and filtration already fitted into the tank by the manufacturer. This can take the hassle out of selecting and fitting the equipment; however, if you want to use different equipment or even if you want to upgrade in the future, the process is not that simple. Therefore, you should make sure that the system you choose is appropriate for the type of fish you want to keep when you purchase it. For example, some systemized aquariums are better suited for planted tanks and tropical fish.

Regardless of which type of aquarium you choose to purchase, it is important to position your tank where it will be easy to view as well as maintain. It should also be positioned in a location that is near an electric outlet. Try to avoid locations near natural sunlight as this can increase the water temperature as well as doors, which may be loud and distress your fish. Finally, avoid placing your tank near areas close to radiators and fireplaces as this can result in excess heat as well.

By giving proper thought and consideration to the type of tank that will best suit your needs and the needs of your fish for some time to come you can be sure you and your fish will enjoy your new aquarium for a long time.

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South American Cichlids are often referred to as New World Cichlids. These cichlids are quite hardy and are easy to care for in comparison to many other types of fish. With the addition of these cichlids you can add a brilliant splash of color to your freshwater aquarium. South American Cichlids are often categorized into Dwarf Cichlids, Larger Amazonian Cichlids and Larger Notropical Cichlids. All of these different categories require different levels of care as well as have different requirements for their tanks, so it is important to make sure you understand the needs of your cichlids before you bring them home.

For example, soft water Dward Cichlids tend to be far more passive than their larger peers, making them an excellent addition for a fairly peaceful aquarium community. Larger Amazonian Chichlids as well as Neotropical Cichlids have the ability to adapt to many different size water environments. Larger species do tend to be predatory and can be territorial in nature, so it is generally recommended for them to be maintained in a semi-aggressive or aggressive environment. In some cases, provided you maintain a large enough tank, the aggressive varieties can co-exist in harmony with the more peaceful cichlids. Making an effort to provide plenty of rocks and hiding places are the more peaceful cichlids can also help to keep things calm.

When it comes to personalities, the South American Cichlids tend to be quite interesting and displace intelligence that is more evolved than many fish. With more than 450 South American Cichlid varieties there is certainly a large number to choose from in order to add variety and color to your tank. Most South American cichlids are carnivores; however, some will feed on plant material. The largest of the South American cichlids will grow up to 60 centimeters while the smallest grow no larger than 3 centimeters in length.

Perhaps one of the most famous of the South American cichlids is the freshwater Angelfish. To properly maintain your Angelfish, you will need to continually monitor the pH-value in your aquarium, assuring it rests between 6.5 and 6.9. Oscar cichlids are also very popular, hailing from the acidic waters in South America. These fish tend to be highly intelligent and are often investigative in nature. As a result, they can grow bored in an environment that is barren, so it is preferable to provide them with plenty of toys and a lively environment.

Many of the African cichlid varieties hail from the Lake Malawi region; however, numerous others may come from other African river and lake areas as well. Most of these regions are acidic; however, some can be alkaline so it is important to know the requirements for your particular species before you bring them home.

The Nigeria Green is a popular African cichlid which is found in the acidic waters in both Cameroon as well as Nigeria. Males can grow up to 3.5 inches while females are somewhat smaller. Both genders can display brilliant and vivid colors, particularly during the breeding period.

Other popular African cichlids include the Jewel Cichlid as well as the Red Cichlid. The latter tends to be somewhat aggressive, so it should only be housed with sturdy species or else housed in a larger tank environment; in a minimum of a 75 gallon tank.

Generally, even some of the more aggressive cichlids can be maintained without problems provided they are given sufficient aquarium space which will allow for their more aggressive tendencies as well as their growth. It is also important not to overcrowd the larger varieties of cichlids, such as Oscars, as they grow long quite quickly. A 75-100 gallon aquarium, at a minimum, is recommended for just two Oscars to allow for their rapid growth rates.

By providing sufficient space, maintaining your pH-value in accordance with your species needs and monitoring the temperature of the water, you can be sure your cichlids will live a long and healthy life.

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A saltwater aquarium will certainly allow you to have an interesting variety of colorful fish; however, if you are a novice to keeping an aquarium you may find a saltwater aquarium a bit daunting. The major advantage of a freshwater aquarium is that it allows you as a beginner to gain experience before taking on the responsibilities of a saltwater tank; which can be time consuming and expensive.

Freshwater aquariums tend to be easier to set up than saltwater aquariums and on average require less time and effort in terms of maintenance. When it comes to expense, freshwater aquariums are also less costly for both equipment as well as fish. Marine fish are required for saltwater aquariums and while they are more colorful than freshwater fish, they are also typically more expensive.

Additions for saltwater aquariums can also be expensive, such as live rock. Live rock provides a great biological filter for your saltwater tank and makes set up and maintenance of the saltwater tank easier, but it is expensive as it is taken from coral reefs.

Lighting is also an important issue. If you have live corals and rock in your saltwater tank, lighting will become even more important. Poor lighting can cause these live organisms in your saltwater tank to die. Of course, lighting is also important to a freshwater tank; however, maintaining the balance is not as delicate.

With a saltwater tank there is also the added responsibility of monitoring the salt levels; a task which is not necessary with a freshwater tank. This is a delicate process. If your salt levels are not properly monitored and maintained your fish, rocks and plants will not survive in a saltwater environment. The water quality must also be monitored carefully; but when compared this task is really not much different than monitoring and maintaining the water quality in a freshwater tank.

Ultimately, the final decision of whether a saltwater or a freshwater tank is best; will depend on how much time and money you want to invest in your aquarium. A freshwater tank can be quite fun, allowing you to keep a number of beautiful freshwater tropical fish while getting your feet wet in the process of maintaining an aquarium. You can avoid the disappointment that goes along with losing an expensive fish while you learn the basics of maintaining a tank when you choose a freshwater tank.

If; however, you feel you are up to the challenge and are not concerned with the expense, a saltwater aquarium can open up a new world through the introduction of vibrant, beautiful fish swimming along live corals and rocks.

In the event you do choose to start out with a freshwater tank in the beginning, keep in mind this does not preclude you from changing to a saltwater tank later on. In many cases, people begin in the hobby of keeping fish by setting up a freshwater aquarium due to the fact that it is easier. Once they have gained experience and confidence, they make the change to a saltwater tank. Many of the items that are used for a freshwater tank can also be incorporated into use in a saltwater aquarium. Along with a few additions, it can be simpler than you might think to complete the conversion from a freshwater to a saltwater tank.

For example, you may be able to use the tank itself; provided it is large enough. Most saltwater fish will require more space than freshwater fish; but even so your old freshwater tank may still work, with simply fewer saltwater fish. A 10 gallon freshwater tank, which can typically hold about 12 average sized fish, will do fine for up to about 3 average sized saltwater fish.

Whether you can use the filter from your freshwater tank may depend on the type of filter that was used. Under gravel filters and hang on the back filters are not typically recommended for saltwater tanks. A canister filter works better.

In most cases you should be able to use the same heater and thermometer, provided your thermometer is not stainless steel; which could rust in the saltwater. You will need a water pump to create movement in the tank if you do not already have one.

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When planning to add live plants to your aquarium it is important to understand that live plants typically do not fare well in aquariums which have been newly established. This is because nitrates, a substance that plants use in the photosynthesis process, are relatively low in newly established aquariums.

To keep your live plants healthy you will need to keep an eye on them to determine whether they need any nutrient additives. As your tank ages, the live plants will tend to use up abundant levels of nitrates. Your plants will also need iron for healthy growth. By monitoring the color of your plants, you will be able to know whether you need to add nutrients. For example, green plants which tend to become yellow quickly may be exhibiting signs of iron deficiency. A good plant additive will contain phosphates, iron, nitrates and other nutrients which will keep your plants healthy and thriving.

Lighting is another essential element of the photosynthesis process; necessary for both healthy fish and live plants. If you have a planted aquarium, it is recommended to maintain a ten to twelve hour light cycle. The strength of lighting you need will largely depend on the size of your aquarium; however, two watts of lighting per gallon is a good rule of thumb to ensure sufficient plant growth.

Water hardness and pH levels should also be monitored with an aquarium featuring live plants. Water hardness is the level of minerals present in the water. Levels range between hard, a high degree of minerals, and soft; a low degree of minerals. A simple test kit can help you to measure your water hardness. Most tropical plants come from waters where the level of hardness is 8 degrees or less.

The pH level refers to the potential of hydrogen in the water. This ranges from low (acidic) to high (alkaline) or neutral. You will need to measure the pH level according to the particular type of plants kept in your aquarium. Generally, plants will do well in lower to slightly higher than neutral water. Test kits are also available which will help you to monitor the pH levels of your water.

When it comes time to actually plant your live plants, there are several different techniques which can be used. The appropriate technique will depend on the species you intend to use. Plants which require a substrate should be combined with a course sand or fine gravel. Other plants will grow roots and will not require a substrate; however. Other plants will even attach to rocks, so it is important to know which type of plant species you are using.

Plants should be removed from their bunch, with each strand planted separately. The leaves should be pulled down to the section where the leaf connects to the stem first. This will allow the stem to grow roots. Once this is done the plant stems can either be planted in order for them to sprout in the substrate or allowed to float in the aquarium for a few days to allow roots to develop.

Keep in mind that bare root plants should be planted just like outdoor plants. A hole should be placed in the substrate that is large enough to accommodate the roots. Gently place the roots in the hole and spread them out; carefully covering the roots with just enough substrate to keep them from floating away. Take care not to push the crown of the plant below the ground surface as this can cause damage to the plant. If you are using plant species which will root on rocks and root, the plant base can simply be attached to the base using a bit of fishing line. After the plant roots have grown and become securely attached, carefully snip away the fishing line.

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• The reduction of water evaporation
• Assistance in maintaining a consistent water temperature
• Reduction of household pollutants
• Enhancement of fish color and attractiveness of aquarium
• Provision of photosynthesis; necessary for live plants

While it is not necessary to keep the light on for extended periods of time, it is important to understand how much light your fish require.

Basically, there are two different types of lighting available for your aquarium. These are fluorescent tubes and incandescent bulbs. While incandescent bulbs are less expensive than fluorescent tubs; incandescent lights will typically produce more heat and less natural light. As a result, incandescent bulbs are really better suited for small tanks; 10-gallon and under.

If you have a larger tank, fluorescent lighting is really better as it provides more natural light and less heat. In addition, the fixtures for a fluorescent light tube tend to be more flexible and actually make it easier for you to choose the best light for your particular aquarium.

In the event your aquarium has live plants, you should only use a full spectrum fluorescent bulb as this will best simulate the light that is given off by the sun. If you should need more intense lighting, which plants tend to grow best with, you can increase your lighting by using bubs that emit more watts. For example, heavy plant growth can be achieved by increasing your lighting to at least 60 watts of lighting for every 12 inches of the length of your tank. Fluorescent lights are more expensive to purchase; however, it should ultimately be kept in mind that they are less expensive to operate.

When choosing the lighting for you tank, some thought should be given to what is in your tank. For example, reef tanks will require more lighting than a tank that contains only fish. Planted freshwater tanks will likewise require more ample lighting. Live rock tanks, in which photosynthetic animals are cultivated, should be treated as a reef tank and consequently require more lighting. For reef tanks, it is best to consider some type of high intensity aquarium lighting such as compact fluorescent lighting, VHO lighting or metal halide lighting.

Compact fluorescent lighting system-provides a bright, efficient and cool light with a low operating cost while producing less heat than many other intense light sources.

VHO fluorescent lighting systems provide a super bright and long lasting light; making it ideal for reef aquariums.

Metal halide lighting is best known for providing higher heat with a wide spectrum range. It is suited for reefs and freshwater aquariums of depths more than 24 inches. In some cases, a chiller may be needed along with a metal halide lighting system due to the intense heat it puts out if the room temperature cannot be balanced to counteract the heat of the light.

The size and depth of your tank can also play a role in choosing the appropriate amount and type of lighting for your tank. Typically, 1.5 watts of lighting per gallon to 6 watts of lighting per gallon is recommended. If your tank is particularly deep you may need to provide additional lighting, as light does not penetrate water very well. Metal halide lighting is a good option is your tank is over 20 inches in depth as the lamps provide a more concentrate form of lighting.

Fish only aquariums will do fine with a standard fluorescent lighting system; allowing for between 1 to 2 watts per gallon.

A freshwater planted aquarium including live plants and fish will also do fine with a standard fluorescent lighting system, allowing for between 2 and 5 watts of lighting per gallon.

Saltwater reef aquariums with invertebrates, corals and fish will need a lighting system that is more advanced, such as a power compact, VHO or metal halide lighting system. Plan to allow for between 4 to 8 watts per gallon, for aquariums which are 24 inches deep or less. In the event you choose to house only corals or invertebrates which require lower levels of light, you can relax these requirements somewhat.

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In terms of longevity, goldfish have been known to live as long as 25 years and some have been noted to grow as long as two feet in length. Goldfish are frequently thought of as being inexpensive; however, collectors will pay up to $1,000 and even more for a prized specimen from the goldfish family.

There are actually more than 125 varieties of goldfish; ranging from the common pet shop goldfish to the fancier species of goldfish. Some goldfish, particularly the bulging eyed varieties, can appear to be quite deformed; however, they are highly prized by goldfish enthusiasts and breeders.

The comet is the most common goldfish. This is the variety with the pointy tail. The shubunkin; which is blue and speckled, is perhaps the most widely known of the straight-tailed varieties. Both of these types of goldfish are fairly robust and easy to maintain. In addition, both varieties will grow fairly large when provided with adequate space and care.

Fancy goldfish, most of which have round bodies and long flowing fins as well as other interesting aspects, usually reach smaller adult sizes. These also tend to be far less robust and are more sensitive. In addition, the fancy varieties tend to suffer from illness more frequently; particularly bacterial infections. This can be avoided if you keep the water in good condition; however, that requires additional vigilance and maintenance.

While common goldfish and fancy goldfish can be kept together it is really best to keep them separately. This is because the straight-tailed varieties tend to be faster swimmers and are more boisterous while the fancy varieties are not as good swimmers. As a result, the fancy varieties may be bullied by the straight-tailed varieties.

It is best to purchase your goldfish from a store that really knows their fish and avoid department stores who likely have little knowledge about the fish they sell. Avoid fish with dorsal fins that are not erect, as this can be a sign the fish is sick. Fish that appear to have to work at getting to the bottom of the tank should also be avoided, as should fish which appear to be much smaller than fish of the same age.

If you are buying fancy goldfish with bulging or bubble eyes, avoid those with eyes that are either too small or too large. Bubbles which are too small may not grow enough and those that are too big may grow so large that it makes it difficult for the fish to swim later.

Be sure to check out all of the fish in the tank and be very skeptical about buying any fish which are in the same tank with a fish that appears to be sick. If there is a fish in the tank that seems sickly, the others may as well be sick too.

It is important to keep in mind when buying a goldfish that while they are hardy even the common varieties of goldfish require good care to ensure their survival. This includes providing them with a sufficient sized tank. Goldfish are often associated with bowls but in reality they should be provided with enough space to allow them to grow. Depending on variety, they can grow from six to fourteen inches and can live, on average, from seven to ten years.

To provide an adequate home to two goldfish, your tank should be at least twenty gallons. While this can seem large, goldfish grow quickly to fill the space. The water should be de-chlorinated and a good filtration system made available. Provided the temperature of the water remains between 65 and 75 degrees, you will not need a heater. In addition, you will not need gravel on the bottom of the tank; but if it is used, you should make sure it is siphoned regularly to remove fish waste and excess food.

Avoid overfeeding your new goldfish. Remember the rule; never feed more than your fish can eat in five minutes twice per day. This will help to keep your fish happy and your water cleaner.

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