First step in learning how to remove paint from a carpet is to know what kind of paint stain you are dealing with. Read the label, and see if the paint is water or oil based. It should specifically on the label. Typically water based paint, will require clean-up using soap products and water. With oil-based paints, you will likely have to resort to paint thinners, and/or mineral spirits.

Removing Wet Paint Stains from Carpet

1. First step is to set up a barrier around the wet paint stain so it will not run. Use paper towels or households rags (that you don’t want to keep) to try and soak up as much of the stain as possible. Dab at the paint stain until you are unable to soak up any more. You may want to use a spatula or putty knife to scrape any excess of the carpet onto the towels.
2. Once you have soaked up as much as possible, use a spray bottle filled with soapy water and spray the same area to moisten it. Repeat the above procedure until the towels come out clean. Your best choice is to start with dish soap like Dawn – and be sure to blot the stain, rather than rub it deeper into the carpet fibers.
3. Once you have lifted as much of the stain as possible using soapy water and paper towels, you should use a lacquer paint thinner. You can find these at any home improvement stores or wherever paint is sold. This will help to dissolve the paint color stain in the carpet.
4. After you apply the paint thinner, you should spray with diluted soapy water once again, and repeat the blotting procedure.
5. When you can no longer see the paint discoloration from the carpet, mix 10 parts water to one part vinegar. Dip a clean sponge into the mixture and blot the area. This will not only help to remove any remaining paint, but will also pull the soap from the carpet fibers.
6. The last step before allowing the area to dry, and vacuum is to use cold water on the carpet area to rinse off the vinegar. If you don’t remove the vinegar mixture, you can be left with a yellowish discoloration over time as well as an offensive odor. Once the area dries completely, vacuum thoroughly with the hose on your vacuum system.

If the paint stain doesn’t come clean, or seems to reappear – or is already dry by the time you notice it, you will need to purchase products from the store. These same products will work for oil based paint stains.

Removing Dry or Oil Based Paint Stains from Carpet

The first step to removing oil based or wet paint stains from carpet, is to remove as much of it as possible by hand before using any products. You can scrape the paint from the carpet, or moisten the area slightly and try blotting the paint stain to get the excess up. However, you don’t want to spread the stain – and should take care not to spread it around or deeply embed it into the carpet fibers. Using a toothbrush, a scrape blade, scrubbing tool or even something like pliers to strip the paint off first is optimal.

Also, before using any products, including mineral spirits or Goof-Off, make sure that you test the product on a piece of carpet that won’t be seen. Your carpet may react differently to the product than label specifications – and it can completely bleach out or ruin the carpet fiber if you aren’t careful.

1. If you have a light colored carpet, use Goof-off to remove the paint. You can easily follow the directions on the packaging. However, this product will not work well on dark colored carpet because it tends to discolor it.
2. Purchase a solvent for oil based paint removal and gently dab it on the affected area. Make sure NOT to mix the product with excess water, which will damage the backing of your carpet. The solvent should used on a clean dry cloth, blotted on and blotted off with a clean cloth.
3. Another idea is to use a cheap brand of hairspray on the paint stain. Simply spray the area with the hairspray and rub it with a clean, dry, porous cloth or towel. Make sure to test the hairspray on a conspicuous area first. You can do this many times until the paint stain is completely lifted.
4. Mineral spirits is another great way to remove dry or oil based stains from carpet. You can find mineral spirits anywhere paint is sold, and should follow the packaging directions. Some brands require it to be mixed with water before use, while others are ready mixed.

If you are working with solvents, mineral spirits, or paint thinners, be sure to wear gloves in order to ensure your own safety.

If worst comes to worst and you cannot remove the stain, the last option is to carefully cut out the area of carpet and replace with a new piece of the same carpet. You can simply glue it down, or even use double-sided duct tape to keep it in place. This works especially well on shag carpets or those with longer threads that will hide the seams more easily.

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These are the washrooms, the kitchen, front yard and back yard and if you entertain a lot, the living and dining rooms. The bedrooms, garage and the study do not have to be cleaned assiduously, but still need some looking after at least twice a month.

As for the elements, we’re talking about appliances and fixtures that require weekly cleaning: the fridge and oven – because these are the fixtures where our food is prepared. Hygiene dictates that they be cleaned regularly to avoid the growth and spread of bacteria.

Let’s start with the schedule.

House Cleaning Tips: Work out a Schedule First

House cleaning is not exactly an activity that excites and stimulates us, but it has got to be done, no matter what. What some people tend to do is neglect the cleaning for weeks and then when they feel a sudden burst of energy, or company is expected, they go on a full-blown cleaning marathon that can take at least two or three days. The reason it takes that long – even if the dwelling is only a single’s pad – is due to negligence. All of a sudden, the place needs to be really cleaned because there are tell tale signs of negligence.

What we recommend is that some parts of the room and certain chores be scheduled for particular days in the week. In our home, we always try to vacuum the second floor on Mondays, and then vacuum the first floor on Tuesdays. Vacuuming is essential so that dust does not permeate the whole house and cause allergies.

The bathroom and toilet scrubbing and disinfecting are done on either Thursday or Friday, and the appliances are taken care of on the weekend.

The secret, as you may have guessed, is NOT to cram all cleaning chores in one or two days. This is how house cleaning becomes a most tedious obligation and we begin to resent this activity because of sheer physical fatigue. By spacing out our chores into certain days of the week, it does not become an endless string of “to do” things, making us feel totally uninspired and de-motivated. When house cleaning turns out to be a marathon, we dread the next round and tend to put off for weeks what needs to be done until it’s time again to get rid of the “crud” and the “muck.”

House Cleanings Tips: Hardwood Floors

Wouldn’t it be nice if our floors could look brand new everyday, minus the scratches and the chipped edges and dull appearance?

When we moved into our place, the hardwood floors were so beautiful and shiny we were afraid to step on them. We wanted to spread out large area rugs to protect the finish. We almost went out to the local hardware store to buy a bucket of cleaning chemicals and solutions, eager to maintain the sheen of the wood. But we decided to ask a construction expert who was putting on our lighting fixtures if he knew anything about hardwood floors and how to care for them. His advice was: vacuum regularly, and then every now and then pass a damp cloth soaked in lukewarm water to be a followed by a quick dry with a soft cloth. He said never to use any chemicals or solutions – just plain water. We glad we took his advice, because four years later, our floors have not lost their shine.

As for the fridge: we wash the detachable storage compartments with warm water and dishwashing detergent, and for the inside of the fridge, we simply use warm water with vinegar. Use 1 cup of vinegar with 3 cups water. After cleaning, we leave a fresh box of baking soda in one corner of the fridge.

For the oven: if you have a self-cleaning oven, this is a blessing, but for those who have the old-fashioned ones inherited from grandma, a good scrub down with warm water and vinegar should do the trick. This is to disinfect the oven. Occasionally, there are grease spots that remain on the corners and on the glass door, and we scrub them with a small amount of household cleanser. If you have a modern oven with ceramic tops, there is a whitish solution you can get from the supermarket, drugstore or hardware store. Make sure the label reads “for ceramic glass top ovens.” This solution is an excellent de-greaser.

House Cleaning Tips: Cobwebs Everywhere?

This is where your ordinary broom will be useful. Make sure the broom is clean and free of ingrained dirt before you “swat” down the cobwebs from the ceiling and corners of walls. If you’d rather not have to deal with cobwebs on your broom, wrap the broom with an ordinary cloth before you take down the cobwebs. This cloth can be discarded or thrown into the wash.

One writer suggested buying two products that are available that can serve as substitutes for your broom. One is the cobweb eliminator and the telescoping duster. They are perfect for hard to reach spots. We looked up some telescoping dusters and they range in price from $20.00 to $150.00. The high priced ones come with multiple accessories to clean paneling, molding and intricate carvings. Some dusters come with a soft brush head and extension pole that can be extended from six to sixteen feet. The nylon bristles can reach vaulted ceilings, skylights and air grates.

House Cleaning Tips: No Need to go Overboard!

One valuable lesson we learned when we became a homeowner. There is absolutely no need to go overboard with cleaning products. Are you sometimes surprised when you look in the cupboards of people and you see all kinds of cleaning brands – one set for the bathrooms, another set for the kitchen, and another for the living room and dining room?

If you have a brand new house, you don’t usually have to deal with permanent stubborn stains and dirt accumulation. What we’ve learned is that we need only the following:

• Dishwashing detergent
• Vinegar
• Cleanser

That’s it! Cynical? Don’t be. We use dishwashing detergent not only for dishes, but also to scrub bathroom walls, toilets, sinks. We use nothing on our floors, just water. Cleanser is to clean the soap stains off the aluminum and metal fixtures and vinegar to disinfect the fridge and coffee brewer. When we were tenants, we lived in an old apartment building and we had a whole arsenal of chemicals: toilet freshners (the kind that turned toilet water blue), Murphy’s oil, CLR, and the toxic solutions that needed careful handling. With a brand new house, it would be a waste of dollars to buy all kinds of cleaning products.

Think house cleaning tips when your house is over five years old, and “things” begin to appear. It’s time to invest in stronger cleaning agents to deal with the wear and tear, and the smells that linger in the house and apartment. In very cold climates like Canada, homes don’t get aired regularly because the harsh winter forces us to keep our windows closed at all times. That’s when we need to clean more vigorously and with more diligence.

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First you need to understand what laminated wood flooring is, and how it is manufactured and laid. Then you need to get your head around the best cleaning methods for this type of floor. General maintenance isn’t difficult, but if you don’t get rid of stains as soon as they appear, then you might have problems.

So before we look at how to remove rust stains from laminated wood flooring, here’s the low-down on the generic product and its general maintenance.

Understand What Laminated Wood Flooring Is

In simple terms, laminated wood floors are made from wood by-products that are bonded using pressure. Also known as floating wood tile, laminated wood products are not made of solid wood, but they are made from vinyl either, although most manufacturers also make synthetic flooring, including products like linoleum and vinyl.

Essentially laminate flooring is a photograph of wood grain that is impregnated with melamine (a well known compound commonly used to make synthetic resins and used extensively for kitchen, bedroom and bathroom cupboards), fixed to an HDF (high density fiberboard) core, and then coated with a tough transparent layer that protects it.

Laminate flooring is manufactured in the form of “planks” that you either glue or click together. All should be laid on a suitable underlay.

Maintenance and General Cleaning Tips for Laminated Wood Flooring

One of the most common problems when it comes to laminate flooring is that the specialist products manufactured and used to clean it often have a tendency to build up on the surface. Another gripe is that cleaning products create a slightly sticky film on the surface, though diluting the cleaner with water sometimes solves the problem. Steam mops tend to create a streaky mess, and even using plain water tends to leave streaks as the water dries on the surface.

Some people find that a mix of vinegar and water (50-50) works well, though you need to use an effective mop or steamer that prevents the solution from drying on the floor. Others find that a few drops of dish detergent or washing up liquid in warm water works well (use one that has lemon added to it).

But perhaps the most popular solution is to use a window-cleaning product. Sweep or vacuum any dust or loose dirt; spray the cleaner on your floor in sections; mop using a device that has a flexible head and thick removable micro-fiber pad.

Getting Rid of Rust Stains that Threaten to Mar the Good Looks of Your Floor

Even if you are fanatical about keeping your laminated wood flooring clean, rust stains can be a real problem. Often caused by leaving something metal on your floor, that rusts when it comes into contact with water, the stain is made up of tiny little particles of iron oxide. The problem is that some chemicals or substances can make a rust stain worse. A chlorine-based bleach, for example, will react with the rust and might intensify the effect of the discoloration on your floor, or cause it to bleach or yellow.

Often people recommend nail varnish remover to get rid of this type of stain. While it will get rid of the rust, it is also likely to lift the laminate.

Another product that people sometimes suggest is oxalic acid, a white powder found in hardware stores. Like hydrogen peroxide, oxalic acid is a type of bleach, and as such it is a strong chemical. While you may be successful in getting rid of the rust stain with oxalic acid, the danger is that it may bleach the surrounding area as well.
So what works without compromising the flooring itself?

Commercial Rust Removal Products

There are various commercial rust removal products on the market, some of which work better than others. See if you can get feedback from other consumers who have tried the products available in your part of the world, specifically on laminated wood floors, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Also check the label to make sure that there is no warning in terms of possible damage as a result of usage. This might be in tiny print that you don’t even notice.

The safest types of commercial product are those that are water-based – where you use water to clean up rather than another type of solvent. Ultra On Rust Remover is one such product that is also biodegradable and non-toxic. Others include:

• Bar Keepers Friend Lime & Rust Remover – which some people swear by and others insist doesn’t work – that you make into a paste and paint onto the stain and wipe off; because you don’t scrub it, it shouldn’t damage the laminate.
• Zud Heavy Duty Cleanser that is manufactured to remove rust and other “tough” stains.
• Whink Rust & Iron Stain Remover that is recommended for vinyl finishes and so should be perfectly safe when used on laminate flooring.

Even with recommendations, before you start your cleanup, test a small section of the stain with the product you have chosen, to make sure it doesn’t have a damaging effect.

Homemade Concoctions that Get Rid of Rust

If you want to avoid chemicals (and save money at the same time), try some of the “tried and tested” home remedies other people use to get rid of rust. But always do small section test before you attack the whole stain.

Vinegar is a great cleanser, and it can be mixed with various other ingredients to make successful stain removers. One home recipe involves mixing vinegar (use a white spirit vinegar, not a brown malt vinegar) with equal parts of bicarbonate of soda and water to make a thick solution. If you want to make a paste, add more bicarb. Paint on, and leave until it takes effect. Rinse with clean cold water and wipe dry.

Another remedy that can work really well, depending on the intensity of the rust stain, is to sprinkle the stain with ordinary fine-grain table salt. Then slice a lime or lemon in half and gently rub over the salt. Don’t use coarse salt because this might scratch the surface. If this doesn’t work sprinkle more salt onto the stain and then wet the area with lemon juice. Allow the lemon and salt to soak into the stain overnight (for about 24 hours). Rub gently with half a lemon and then rinse with water.

Liquid ammonia is another solution that some people choose to use, and it can work. But because it is poisonous, only use it as a last resort. Add two tablespoons of ammonia to four cups of warm water and pour over the stain. Blot with a cloth or paper towel and then rinse with cold water. Wear gloves and don’t inhale the gases it gives off. Ideally wear a mask as well.

If you do decide to try oxalic acid, dilute the powder with double the quantity of warm water (1:2), and rinse thoroughly with fresh water once it has taken effect (it can take up to an hour). Wear gloves and avoid inhaling the fumes.

Whichever rust stain removal solution you decide to try, always wipe the excess rust off the surface with a damp cloth before you start. And always do the “small section test”.

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Marble table tops and other decorative pieces require swift action when it comes to spills, stains, or drink rings. Because of the porous surface, it is highly susceptible to stains, and thus any type of spill should be wiped up immediately. Coasters should be kept handy to prevent people from placing a drink on the marble surface as this is highly likely to leave rings and mar the surface.

Most marble table tops can be cleaned using a damp rag and lukewarm water and then wiped dry with a clean, low lint rag. In most cases of daily exposure, a marble topped surface shouldn’t need cleaning agents in order to remove stains unless a spill has occurred. Marble floors however should be cleaned regularly with lukewarm water and then wiped dry. Neglecting to wipe a marble surface dry is prone to leaving watermarks on the table which will dull the shine and create a spotted appearance.

There are an abundance of commercial marble cleaners and polishers that can bring dull and unsightly marble surfaces back to their original shiny beauty. Most of these commercial cleaners work very well. A simple trip to your nearest Kmart, Wal Mart, or Target can supply you with enough marble polish to last a lifetime, as it not something that needs to be applied regularly. Applying polish too often will not prevent further dulling, typically only twice per year for most marble surfaces is ample to keep a nice marble shine.

The marble polishes which are readily available in the United States are actually produced to enhance the shine of hard marble. They tend to work very well on the softer marble which is typically imported for use in the United States. Marble companies once sold Marble Kits that were designed to clean and polish the marble surface, but were not effective and required an enormous amount of elbow grease to get the job done. The marble care industry has now offered cleaners and polishes that are easier to use, do a faster and more effective job, and are less expensive.

Tin oxide can also be used if the marble surface is etched or otherwise not looking up to par. Tin oxide is available scarcely throughout the United States but is simple to use in restoring a marble surface. Simply apply the tin oxide with a damp cloth and then fold the cloth over as often as necessary to continuously clean and polish the damp areas until dry. Using an electric buffer to polish the surface can minimize and even eliminate scratches or etches that time can leave on a marble surface.

Organic stains can be removed by creating a simple mixture of approximately 20 percent peroxide and adding a few drops of ammonia mixed with water, and left on the stain for about 24 hours. Sometimes it can be beneficial to apply it, rinse it two hours later, reapply, and then leave it to soak out the stain for 24 hours. This depends on how deeply set the stain has become and how long it has been there.

Oil stains like hand lotion, butter, and other oil based stain, can often be successfully removed with a beginning base of corn starch. Corn starch is absorbent and can often help to dry the oil. Leaving the corn starch on for about 24 hours, brushing it off, reapplying for a shorter time and then creating a solution of detergent gives the base of the oil stain a serious run for its money. Scrubbing with a stiff brush and wiping dry should reveal a stain-less marble top surface.

Cleaning marble that has been marred with rust stains can be done with a commercial rust stain remover, but unlike other stain removal systems, should not be left on the surface for long at all as it is quite harsh and can easily transition from doing a lot of good to doing a lot of harm.

Wiping up spills right away, especially those which are acidic in nature should be immediately wiped up to avoid staining and etching. Etching is the removal of the shine, rather than a gouge left behind by a scratch. Marble takes special care in order for it to maintain its luster that makes it so unique and worth its value.

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Learning how to clean laminate flooring is an essential part of keeping it looking new. You have to remember that laminate flooring is NOT real wood, and is instead layers of engineered materials compressed on top of one another. Most of them come with moisture locking installation features that keep spills from seeping through the seams. However, if the seems on your floor are not tight – you might have a problem with debris and liquids building up beneath the floor. If you had it professionally installed, you should contact the folks who put it in and have them come out and fix the problem.

There are a few items that are a must have when you have laminate floors. A broom with soft bristles, vacuum cleaner, and mop are basically the essentials. The first step in cleaning the floors is to sweep them thoroughly. If you leave debris on the floor and then try to mop it up, you risk scratching the surface of the flooring. You should also vacuum around the edges and cracks of the floor to make sure that all the loose dirt and dust is being cleaned up. Once the floors are free from loose materials, it is time to mop.

Many people today have replaced their traditional mop with something like a Swiffer Sweeper. These work pretty well on laminate flooring – however, they don’t have the power to remove scuffmarks and sticky stains as well as a mop. Before you choose a cleaner to mop the floors with based on scent – check with your floor manufacturer. You can probably look it up online, or call a 1-800 number to ascertain which kinds of products are not recommended for your flooring. Some floors do not do well with ammonia or bleach based products, which can potentially ruin the finish. There are specific cleaners made for laminate flooring – but by and large, these are not much different from some of the products you can find in a local store. A quick look at the ingredients will prove you are paying more money for a product that is virtually the same as Mr. Clean or Lysol.

When you mop your laminates, make sure that you use warm or hot water – and that you squeeze all the excess moisture from the mop. To clean laminate flooring, you shouldn’t need a lot of water. IF there are particular areas with ground in or ossified dirt, simply use a hand sponge rather than douse the entire area with water and cleaning products. The flooring should be damp, but not wet! If you have a wood-grained looking laminate, you might want to mop in the direction of the grain so that streak marks will not be left. Mop the entire floor with your cleaning product, then drain the mop bucket, rinse the mop and go over it again with clean, hot water to make sure that you get up all the excess residue from your cleaning product.

Some floors, do better when they are dried after they are mopped. Many people also like to choose products such as Mop n Glow, which give the floors a glossy appearance. The problem is that these products actually leave a film on the flooring and are not meant for laminate flooring. If you have a non-glossy laminate floor, it is best to leave it that way. Using products designed to leave sheen, can yellow light colored floors and cause a lot of inconsistencies in the floor after cleaning which is hard to fix. In fact, these products require you to use ammonia in order to remove the product. Best bet is to avoid them.

One excellent solution for cleaning laminate floors is a mixture of vinegar and water. You could mix it up in a spray bottle, and simply spray the floor and mop as you go. This way you aren’t exposing the floor to excess moisture. Before you use any products, again – check with the manufacturer to see what products are recommended.

Learning how to clean your laminate flooring may be a bit of trial and error. The most important element in keeping them looking new and avoiding scratches, is to keep them free from debris that could accidentally scour the surface. At doors and entries, you may want to keep a throw rug designed for catching dirt from shoes so that you aren’t constantly sweeping. However, there is some relief in knowing that your laminate flooring is much cleaner than carpet. With carpet, you often don’t see the dirt once it gets trapped in the under layers and padding. At least with laminate flooring, the dirt is visible and you can always be positive that you are removing all of it.

One last thing to avoid with laminate flooring is steam-cleaning products. These are normally safe for tile and real hard woods ONLY. Since laminate is made of various materials – often the temperature of these steam floor cleaners is to hot and could cause the layers of laminate to pull away from one another over time.

Enjoy your floors! With proper care, they can last a very long time and will only add value and coziness to your home.

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That’s right, if you want to have a floor that’s as gorgeous as it is low-maintenance, then hardwood floors are the way to go. But only if you are dutiful about taking care of them. This means that if you neglect your hardwood floor, you could pay big consequences later – as it will age prematurely and you’ll have to refinish it.

So how do you clean hardwood floors exactly? Is it really as simple as people say?

In order to keep your hardwood floors looking spotless and fresh, you have to clean them daily. This means that you vacuum or sweep them. Dirt, sand, dust, and grit should never have a chance to settle into the hardwood floor, as they are harmful and can weaken the floor over time. This is why you want to keep all of that dirt, even if it is practically invisible, off the floor.

Once you’ve cleared the floor, you can then take a mop to it. But be careful. One mistake that people often make is to douse their hardwood floors with too much water. Make sure the mop you use is only somewhat damp, not soaking wet. Just add a little water, not a lot, to your floors to clean it.

There are some easy things you can do to help keep your hardwood floors in good shape. One of those things is to buy some area rugs to protect your floor in different spots where there might be high traffic. For example, at the entry way of a door, or the middle of a room, you can place a rug down so that your hardwood floor can be saved from some serious wear and tear. Rugs are also a great way to dress up your home and even though hardwood floors are pretty, they can also look bland if there aren’t a few rugs here and there to jazz things up.

Cleaning your hardwood floors routinely should prevent many problems down the road. This is because a clean hardwood floor is less vulnerable to deterioration and as well, stains and dirt buildups won’t collect over time and thus become difficult to remove later.

However, you will inevitably have to confront more than just everyday dirt and grime. From red wine, to mud, to coffee, to urine, to lemonade, to blood, your floor will face all kinds of stains! The key is to attack these stains as soon as they arise. The longer you wait to remove them, the more difficult a time you will have.

So here are some tips on washing your hardwood floors free of stains. There are many wood cleaners that you can buy at your local store. These are ideal for cleaning up stains. By combining the cleaner with water and gently rubbing the stain (steel scrubbers and sand paper come in handy here), you can say goodbye to those pesky stains. However, don’t rub too hard, as you will only succeed in rubbing the stain further into the floor!

However, above all, do not use ammonia to clean your hardwood floors. Ammonia is one of those miracle cleaners for many materials, but it will only hurt your hardwood floor. Ammonia can discolor and take away a few years from your floor’s life. So when you do have a cleaning product around that you’d like to use on your floor, check the ingredients and if there is ammonia included, do not use it! Vinegar, on the other hand, can be useful. In that sense, hardwood floors really won’t cost you a lot as you can often fight tough stains with simply water and vinegar.

Just make sure that you let water dry thoroughly on your hardwood, because if it doesn’t, it can and will leave an ugly stain that will be very difficult to remove.

In general, as a rule, only use the most mild cleaning products and never use soaps on your hardwood floors. When in doubt, don’t use any commercial cleaning products, unless they are designed for wood surfaces in particular.

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Thoroughly steam cleaning the furniture or any type of carpeting is a project no matter what. Having it done for you will save you a percentage of the hassle, but of course for a higher price. Steam cleaning carpets can either be one of those do it yourself projects or one of those hire it done and it will either be well done or poorly done but either way you have to pay for it.

If you choose to do it yourself, you can either rent a machine or purchase a machine. For those with lighter colored carpets, pets, children, or other chronic dirt hazard, the purchase of a steam cleaner is probably going to be more cost effective than renting one every time you need your carpets managed. Rental machines are typically available for inspection at the time you are renting them. Look to make sure the machines are clean. Obviously people from all over have used them, including landlords who have been left with horrendous messes from careless tenants. This type of usage can leave unsightly messes in the machines and create more work for you. Owning a machine (which those sold for personal use are lighter, easier to manage, and are usually about as easy to use as a vacuum cleaner) allows you to clean your carpets any time you wish.

Over-cleaning of the carpets will ruin them just as fast as dirt will. When carpets are steam cleaned, there is ample moisture involved. The surface of the carpet will dry much earlier than the deeper layers underneath as well as the carpet padding. It can take up to two weeks for the carpet to thoroughly dry. And of course as we all know, prolonged exposure to moisture encourages the growth of nastiness such as mold and fungus. Thus, most carpet manufacturers recommend only spot cleaning in between regular cleanings, which should happen about 2 times a year at the most. Spot cleaning with a steam cleaner can make your carpets last longer as it gets the deep dirt and stains without over saturation of the carpet.

Steam cleaning carpets can help those family members that suffer from allergies as well as kill off the vast majority of microscopic creatures that live in our homes. This includes dust mites and even viruses. There is also the added benefit of the removal of oily dirt and odors which makes for a more pleasing living environment. Staring at a filthy carpet is not exactly uplifting. The freshness of a steam cleaned rug just feels better.

Getting the job professionally done is the route that is chosen by those who are busy or who lack the physical capacity to move their own furniture around. While it is recommended that you should move your furniture out of the way before the professionals show up, if you aren’t able to do so, you need to explain that to the service you use, and you may be charged a bit extra.

Professional cleaning does have its advantages. The machines used by the professionals are much more powerful and remove much more moisture from the carpeting. Getting your carpets done by a professional may mean paying a good price for a good service, or it might mean paying too much for lousy service. Unfortunately, it seems to be hit or miss with the professional services. Thus, once you have discovered a good carpet cleaner, stick with the company. And don’t be afraid to complain about lousy service. At least if you get the chance to be heard, it is in the company’s hands and you may get a discounted or even free service the next time.

Steam cleaning carpets usually won’t get rid of the smell of dog or cat urine without proper treatment beforehand. A high quality product that is designed just for this purpose should be used in advanced and allowed to dry before getting the carpets cleaned. Once the job is done, you will be able to lounge around on your new clean carpet with confidence.

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One reason laminate floors are so difficult to maintain, is because after you’ve cleaned them, you’re left with ugly streaks. And sometimes even after you’ve invested in the fanciest products, nothing really works. In fact, you may find that the only way to get your floor into shape is to do it the hard way – by getting down on your hands and knees and scrubbing. If these problems sound familiar to you, maybe it’s time to try something new?

Vacuum and sweep the laminate floor before you get to all that nitty-gritty grime.

When in doubt, use vinegar

Vinegar can successfully tackle almost every kind of muck that ends up on the floor. And with a mere fourth of a cup of it, mixed with some regular warm water, you will be equipped to get your laminate floor spotless. Mix the vinegar and water into a spray bottle or a bucket and then douse a mop with the powerful homemade solution. By mopping your floor with just vinegar and water, you can remove many stains and you won’t even have to deal with pesky streaking afterward. Rubbing alcohol and liquid detergent can also come in handy and are easy-to-find combatants for tough-to-remove stains. Just as you would with vinegar, you can combine these ingredients with water and then apply it to the laminate floor. Many people find that the trio of vinegar, water, and rubbing alcohol work very well to clean your floor and also dry impressively fast, thus reducing track marks.

It’s not just how you mop, it’s what you mop with

Microfiber pads are a great addition to your mop if you’re main goal is to clean a laminate floor, in particular. Microfiber is essentially an extremely lightweight polyester fiber. Microfiber combined with vinegar or other more sophisticated cleaning products just might do the trick. There are other fiber pads for your mop that you might want to look into.

A mop can make a really big difference. Thus it’s probably be a good idea to put a little extra money toward a more expensive, well-made mop. But check out consumer reviews before you do this. Swiffer and Clorox mops have a pretty good reputation for getting the job done. (However, Swiffer mops are often better equipped for wood floors, rather than laminate.) The Swiffer WetJet mop, specifically, has been given heaps of praise by its users, who swear it does wonders for laminate floors! A bonus with a Swiffer WetJet mop is that the pads are recyclable. So if you’re conscious of the environment, keep that in mind.

Windex?

Seems like we’re always finding new and creative ways to use Windex, despite the fact that the product is designed to clean windows. But Windex can indeed help you clean your laminate floors too!

Some of these tips may work for you, others may not. No laminate floor is the exact same as the next one over. But likely the reason one piece of advice works for you and not for another person is because of how you clean your floor and how much there is to be cleaned, in the first place. Be careful to follow these steps precisely and don’t give your floor a cursory glance. You might have to be a little aggressive.

Laminate floors have a lot of benefits, but they often cause their owners many a headache. But that’s only if these owners are not informed about how to keep their floors clean. For example, they may use soap or wax – and that is a big no no and will cause more problems than they solve. All you really need to handle your laminate floor is a good mop and some atypical cleaning solutions that you probably have right under your nose – like vinegar.

There are some household cleaners that will work just as well, if not better, than vinegar, but you want to make sure you properly research them before you put them to work on your floors.

Laminate floors are typically installed in kitchens, which means they will be walked on a lot and littered with all kinds of crud! Fortunately, the answer to this problem is not as complicated and difficult as you probably once thought.

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Cleaning Ceramic Tile Floors

Ceramic tile is man-made, and often used on floors because it can be made in almost any color, size, and thickness. There are two main types of ceramic tile – glazed and unglazed, and both are installed with grout that must be cleaned as well. To clean glazed or unglazed ceramic tiles, use 1 gallon of warm water, 1 tablespoon of borax, 2 tablespoons of ammonia (clear kind), and a microfiber mop. Do not use a sponge mop to clean ceramic tile because it will push the dirt and grime into the grout tracks; a microfiber mop will actually pick up the dirt as you sweep it across the floor, keeping the grout from becoming even more dirty. Mop in a circular motion across the tiles. For extremely dirty grout, use a spray bottle to shoot the cleaning solution directly into the grout tracks, mopping over the area immediately once sprayed. For the grout, a stronger cleaning solution can be used, like Oxiclean diluted to ‘heavy duty cleaning’ specifications which are found on the container. Go over the floors with plain water after cleaning to remove any remaining residue from the cleaner.

Cleaning Vinyl Floors

Vinyl flooring is offered in more varieties of colors and patterns than any other floor covering available. It is quite resilient, resistant to scratching, staining, and tearing, and replicates the look of ceramic tile at a much lower cost. Vinyl tiles can be self-adhesive (you peel off the backing and stick them to the floor!), or can be applied with glue. Either way, cleaning vinyl tiles is very simple. To make a cleaning solution, dilute ½ cup of ammonia in 1 gallon of warm water. Abrasive detergents or mop-and-shine products will leave a film on the floor, so ammonia or a manufacturer recommended cleaning solution works best. Using a soft mop or cloth, apply the cleaning solution to the floor in a circular motion. To remove scuff marks, you can use a pencil eraser, toothpaste, or even baking soda. If the scuff mark is still showing, dampen a sponge with mild dishwashing soap and scrub the scuff until it is gone. On vinyl tile, rubber or latex-backed mats can cause staining, so use woven rugs or ‘vinyl-safe’ mats instead.

Cleaning Linoleum Floors

Linoleum flooring is similar to vinyl (many people confuse the two), but linoleum is made from natural ingredients while vinyl is made from synthetic materials. Linoleum flooring is actually made mostly of linseed oil that is boiled down and then mixed with resins, wood flour, and other ingredients. Pigments are added within the mixture for color, and the linoleum is backed with a woven sheet. It is long-wearing, does not scratch as easily as vinyl, and when it does scratch, it holds color because the pattern is embedded in the material, not just stamped on the top layer. Most linoleum is polished or waxed for protection. For heavy cleaning, strip the wax from the flooring following the manufacturer instructions. Fill a spray bottle with 50% vinegar and 50% water, and fill a bucket with warm water. Spray the cleaning solution directly onto the linoleum, and use a damp mop or cloth to wipe the cleaner over the floor surface. Although linoleum is durable, it can be damaged by excessive moisture so use water sparingly. For regular cleaning, use a diluted all-purpose cleaner making sure to rinse well. For added shine, put a cup of vinegar in with your all-purpose cleaner dilution.

To test whether your flooring is vinyl or linoleum, scrape off a layer with a razor blade (obviously you want to do this on an inconspicuous area of the floor). If the color or design comes off, you have vinyl; if the color stays, you have linoleum. If this is not an option, just buy cleaner that is safe for both vinyl and linoleum floors.

Tile floors, whether ceramic, vinyl, or linoleum, are very durable, and come in a huge variety of choices. Spending a short amount of time cleaning tile floors can keep them in perfect condition for many years. For the best outcome, sweep or vacuum tile floors every two days, mop every other week, and deep clean a few times a year.

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Each day, dirt, grit, and sand are brought into the home on the bottoms of shoes, and then scattered throughout the house by normal activity. For large families, the amount of dirt and grime is greater, and is most often deposited in high-traffic areas (such as the kitchen or entryway). This grit will scratch a hardwood floor, dulling the finish. To remove the dirt and sand, sweep the floors with a soft broom about three times per week (everyday works if you’re up for it!), and vacuum regularly using the soft-bristled hose attachment. Even if your vacuum can be set for hardwood floors, the spinning bristles on an upright may damage the floor, so using the hose attachment with the soft brush is best. To catch the dirt and grime on the way in, put rugs or mats in entryways and hallways, and vacuum those regularly as well. A major enemy of hardwood floors is water, so if a beverage is spilled on the floor or a child tracks snow in, make sure to wipe up the moisture immediately (this will probably require more work during the winter months). If the beverage is sticky or sugary, wipe up the spill with a damp towel, and then dry the area with a clean cloth. If the liquid is left on the hardwood floor for a long enough time, it can seep between the floorboards and cause warping.

Unfortunately, regular sweeping still does not prevent grease and dirt build-up on a hardwood floor, so a deeper cleaning should be done every three months. Any cleaning product used on hardwoods should have a neutral pH, and one specifically formulated for wood floors is the best choice. Follow the instructions on the cleaning label, use a soft mop, and apply the cleaner/water solution sparingly. If after cleaning the wood floors feel sticky or like there is a residue, use a vinegar rinse with ¼ cup white or cider vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Mopping with regular detergents or any cleaner with ammonia can strip the finish of the floors, so carefully read labels before applying any cleaner to your hardwood floors. Floors with a wax finish (most new floors and many older do not require this because they have a polyurethane coating) will require buffing approximately twice a year; follow manufacturer recommendations on waxing and buffing. If you happen to find a spot of floor with a stain, clean with your chosen wood cleaner, rinse with the vinegar solution, and then dry with a clean towel. Rub fine-grain sand paper along the wood (following the grain) until the stain is no longer apparent. Buff with a cloth, and then apply wax or finish to protect the area.

Though daily and quarterly cleaning of hardwood floors is very important, preventative maintenance is the only way to avoid major floor issues. Hardwood floors can be dented and gouged by heavy items, so try to protect the floors from hard contact. Use felt pads under table and chair legs so that the chairs can be slid easily without scratching the floors. Never drag furniture across the wood, always pick it up instead. Also, women can dent floors with their high heels so avoid wearing shoes with a spiky or narrow heel on hardwood floors. When throwing a party, ask guests to remove their shoes. Well placed area rugs and runners can also help to protect the floor from dings and dents from routine activity. Sunlight can also damage wood floors by discoloration; if your floors are exposed to south or west facing windows, consider closing the blinds or drapes when the sun shines brightly.

With a little extra care every now and then, your hardwood floors can maintain their high quality, looking new for many years to come. With some well placed rugs, a light sweep every couple days, and a good scrub every three months, cleaning hardwood floors can be simple, and you will even have enough time to enjoy their rich beauty everyday.

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