Simply put, static electricity is caused by the buildup of electrons on an object. When an object comes into contact with another object of a different charge, electrons are transferred from one material and relocated to the other. The moving of the electron causes the static shock you experience.

On your pet, the hair follicles repel each other when positive charges build up on the coat. Low humidity environments (such as a home heated in the winter) can create an optimum environment for static electricity in your pets’ coat, leading to tangles and unintentional shocks when you touch your pet.

Get the Dry Out!
A dry, low humidity environment is the most favorable condition for static electricity. If you live in an area with cold winters, forced air heaters may be part of your life for a good part of every year. While these heaters do a good job of keeping you warm, they are extremely drying, and strip the air of the moisture needed to prevent excessive static electricity.

You can increase the humidity in your home while still keeping warm by running a humidifier throughout the winter months. The humidifier will increase the moisture level in your home, helping to combat dry skin, scratchy throats, and cut down on static electricity.

When you brush your dog, use a coat conditioner, detangler, or even a small mist of water to slightly wet down the coat first, before beginning to brush. Adding moisture to the coat before brushing will reduce friction and help to reduce static shocks during the grooming process.

After bathing your pet, use a dog-specific conditioner. The conditioner will help the hair to retain moisture, making it more difficult for a static electricity charge to accumulate.

Change Materials
If your pet wears a sweater or jacket, ensure that whatever is keeping your pet warm and toasty is made of natural fibers. Synthetic fibers pick up more of a static charge than natural materials such as cotton.

Remove Your Static
If you find that you are frequently shocked while petting your dog, changing the material of your own clothes may help reduce the shocks as well. Because friction causes the buildup of static energy, walking on carpeted floors with socks and some shoes can cause you to build up a large amount of static energy that is discharged when you touch your pet. In cases where static electricity is a large concern, there are shoes available which prevent the buildup of static electricity.

In addition to keeping your dogs’ coat moisturized, keeping your hands well moisturized can reduce static shocks. Regular moisturizer lotion can work well, as well as specific static-reducing crèmes that can help cut down on shocks.

Get Creative
Many people have had to get a little creative when it comes to reducing the static in their pets’ coat. The use of anti-static dryer sheets is a common method of reducing static. Rubbing one of the sheets throughout the dogs’ coat will often reduce the static, but it is only a temporary solution, and may be required several times in a day.

Some people have even gone so far as to use the clothing anti-static spray on their pets. This is not recommended, as these products are often made of ingredients that can be harmful or toxic to pets if ingested. As well as having the potential to make your dog sick, the aerosol nature of these sprays can cause allergies and other related problems.

Dealing with static and pets can be a difficult dilemma. The use of a humidifier, as well as adding moisture to your pets coat can be your best defense against static, helping to ensure you and your pet enjoy a less shocking relationship.

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Brushing has many health benefits to your dog. Regular brushing of all dogs, despite coat length or type, helps to keep the coat and skin healthy. Most dogs do not require frequent bathing (once a month or less!), but brushing in between bath times helps to keep them clean, removing dead hair, dirt and other debris from the coat. Brushing also works to distribute the natural oils of the skin throughout the coat, promoting a healthier coat, and cleaner skin.

In addition the direct benefits to the dogs coat, brushing can help you become more accustomed to your dogs body. While you may not notice any lumps or bumps that have appeared on your dog, regular grooming can insure that if a lump does appear, you are aware of it sooner rather than later. A veterinarian should check any growth or lump you notice on your pet, to rule out cancer and other potentially dangerous conditions. Early detection can be crucial in a positive outcome to an otherwise deadly health scare.

In daily life with your pet, chances are you don’t routinely check in his ears, look at his teeth or check under his belly. With frequent, thorough brushing, you can routinely check these areas for signs of infection or other problems, and address them before they become uncomfortable for your dog.

While all dogs should be brushed at least twice a week, dogs with certain types of coats or lifestyles may daily brushing in order to ensure their coats remain tangle free, and clear of debris, dead hair and dirt.

There are six basic types of coats on dogs, each with it’s own specific requirements. How often you should brush your dog depends on which of the following categories he best fits into:

Smooth Coated dogs, such as Labradors, short hair Chihuahuas, and short hair Dachshunds are the easiest type of coat to maintain. These dogs shed constantly though, and routine brushing with a soft brush can help to reduce excess hair.

Curly coated dogs, such as Poodles, Bichon Frise, and Kerry Blue Terriers, have non-shedding coats that should be bathed and clipped about every 8 weeks. Between clippings, the longer the hair, the more it may become tangled, as the coat is very soft and whispy. Daily brushing towards the end of the clipping cycle may be required.

Short Coated Dogs, such as Corgis, German Shepherds and Jack Russell’s, have coats that are short, but extremely thick. These dogs shed, and often the dead hair becomes trapped within the rest of the coat, requiring frequent thinning and raking of the coat. These dogs should be brushed at least twice a week, more during seasonal sheds.

Wiry coated dogs, such as Australian Terriers and Carin Terriers, have stiff, wiry coats that can shed, and requires frequent grooming to prevent matting.

Long coated dogs, such as Shih Tzus, Maltese and Lhasa Apsos have a dual coat of long, straight human like hair, with an undercoat of thick, cottony hair. These breeds do not tend to shed, but left long, the coat can very quickly become matted, and a magnet for dirt, foxtails, branches and all other types of outdoor material to become tangled within it. Daily brushing is required for these dogs, as well as regular trimming around the face and ears for health and hygiene. Clipping these types of dogs short is a popular alternative, and cuts down on grooming needs.

Silky coated dogs, like Collies, Shelties and Afghan Hounds, are the hardest type of coat to maintain, and require daily attention. These dogs shed a thick undercoat, which easily mats into their long outer hair, creating a constant grooming need. Daily brushing with a slicker brush and rake, as well as strategic clipping, is required to keep these dogs coats in good shape.

There are a plethora of types of brushes available for your dog, and in long hair dogs a variety of tools may be needed.

The slicker brush is one of the most commonly used brushes for long-hair dogs. Rows of tiny, bent wire teeth are set close together, and help remove mats and dead hair from within the coat of dogs. Slicker brushes are useful in shedding breeds, when a large amount of coat needs to come out, such as with short-coated dog, and silky coated dogs.

Pin brushes, the type that many people use on their own hair, work best for long coated dogs to brush out and prevent tangles, as well as in silky coated dogs once the undercoat has been thinned.

Grooming rakes have metal teeth with blades on the inside, and are effective for dogs needing to have lots of dead undercoat removed, or cut through tangles. Rakes should be used with caution, as the metal can injure the skin if used too vigorously, and even break the skin with misuse.

Short-coated dogs are best suited to a bristle brush, with softer bristles as to not injure the skin under the short coat.

In addition to brushes, there are a variety of combs and other products that can help to most effectively brush your pet. When looking for the right tools, consult your groomer or local pet store to help find the appropriate match for your dog.

Regular brushing is an important part of dog ownership that will keep your dog looking and feeling his best, while also promoting a strong bond between you. How often you should brush your pet may vary- but the positive outcome never will.

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There are many benefits – for both you and your dog – to maintaining a consistent grooming routine. Not only will your dog feel better, he’ll be more pleasant to live with!

Proper grooming provides many benefits, and is as important as good veterinary care.

Why Is Grooming Important

Your Dog Will Shed Less

Some breeds of dog shed a LOT. This can make cleanup frustrating as it will seem that and hour after you vacuum, the floor is already full of fur again. While grooming will not eliminate shedding completely, it can greatly reduce it. Your dog has an undercoat of fur and this fur sheds on a regular basis. By grooming your dog, much of the fur that would end up on your furniture, can instead be brushed out by the groomer.

Your Dog Will Smell Better

Think about what your dog does while he is playing the yard or frolicking at the dog park. If he’s like most dogs, he does a lot of rolling around on the ground and tromping through the mud. Over time, that’s going to make for an unpleasant smell. Regular bathing will help your dog smell fresh and clean instead of smelling like a dog.

Your Dog Will Feel Better

Bathing and keeping your dogs coat groomed will help him feel more comfortable. In the heat of the summer, having extra or matted fur can be especially uncomfortable. Help to keep your dog feeling as cool as possible by keeping his coat brushed and trimmed.

Prevents Oral Diseases

Just as humans teeth require regular care, so do your dog’s teeth. While brushing them each day isn’t necessary, they should be given treats that help remove plaque from their teeth, and they should have their teeth cleaned as part of their regular visit to the groomer. Dogs are prone to the same dental problems as humans such as gingivitis and inflammation of the gums. If these diseases occur, and are not treated, tooth loss can result. A dental care program can help prevent these diseases.

Prevents Matting

It’s not much fun to pet your dog when you run your hand over his coat only to feel hard lumps of matted fur. Once fur becomes matted there is no way to correct the problem other than cutting out the section of matted fur. This practice doesn’t exactly make for an attractive dog. Regular brushing will prevent matting. Some breeds will not need as much brushing; other breeds need to be brushed every day in order to prevent matting. Your groomer will be able to tell you how often you need to brush your particular breed of dog.

Provides Early Detection of Fleas and Ticks

There are a lot of reasons to want to keep your dog free from fleas and ticks. In addition to the discomfort, there are serious medical conditions that can be caused by such infestations. Flea bite dermatitis, which causes an itchy red rash, to the more serious Lyme disease, which ticks can carry, all are good reasons to want to keep your dog flea and tick free. If you are not taking a close look at your dogs coat and skin on a regular basis, he can be infested and you may not know. By having him groomed, it will be easy to pick up on signs on infestation in their earliest stages, so that they can be taken care of quickly.

Ear cleaning – prevent infections

Having your dogs ears properly cleaned can help prevent ear infections. It will not prevent all ear infections, but one of the common types, otitis externa, is caused mostly by bacteria or yeast in the ear. Regular grooming can help prevent this type of infection, which can be very painful to your dog.

Now that you know some of the reasons that grooming is important, the next step is finding a quality groomer. You don’t want to randomly select a groomer, or put your pet in the hands of the lowest bidder. By doing a little research, you can be sure that your dog is receiving the best care possible from his groomer.

How to Choose a Groomer

You should never decide on a groomer based on an ad. Instead, you should first visit the shop to get an idea of how they do business.

How Do the Groomers (and Assistants) Handle the Dogs?

Do they seem to have patience with them, or are they handling them in a rough manner. You should never see a groomer or assistant yelling at a dog. While some dogs will be nervous at the groomers, if every dog appears to be terrified that should be a red flag. Dog groomers should appear confident when handling dogs, and should do so in a gentle manner.

Is the Shop Clean?

When you visit, take a look around the shop. It should be appear clean and well-organized. The staff should seem happy and relaxed. If all you see and hear in chaos, you need to ask yourself if you want your dog to be left in such an environment.

Check the Better Business Bureau

Dog grooming is a business, and if any past clients have had a serious complaint, they may have filed it with the BBB. Be sure that the groomer you are considering has a clean record.

Look at Their Album of Clients

A good grooming shop is going to have a photo album which shows off their work. When looking through the book, you should see a variety of styles and clients. By looking through the book, you can get a feel for whether the groomer’s style matches what you want for your pet.

Each breed of dog has different grooming requirements. Some will require regular grooming at home – some on a daily basis – while some require much less care. The only way to know the best grooming routine for you dog is to talk to a professional groomer. Find a quality groomer soon. Your pet will thank you for it!

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While some might think the answer is as simple as ‘when they get too long’, there really is a little more to it than that. In ideal conditions, you wouldn’t have to trim the dog’s nail at all (except for the dew claw). That is because if given proper exercise under the right conditions, the nails would naturally be kept to a perfect length.

When you take your dog for walks, the nails will wear down a little with each step. This is nature’s way of keeping a dog’s nails trimmed. When a dog does not get enough exercise, the nails will grow so long that you can hear them tapping when they walk across the floor. That is when you will have to start trimming.

The exception to that rule is the dew claw. This is the claw that grows on the inner side of the paw. Because this claw doesn’t touch the ground during exercise, it will need to be trimmed regularly. If the dew claw is not properly trimmed, it could bend and grow right into the dog’s skin or pad. The only remedy for this is surgery, which must be performed as soon as you notice the problem. Otherwise, infections and other can result.

Many dogs are extremely resistant to the nail trimming portion of their grooming routine. A dog that is being uncooperative can make this chore very difficult. If they squirm a lot, they can cause you to accidentally trim the nail too short. This can result in you cutting the ‘quick’, which is the fleshy tissue under the nail. Cutting the quick will cause a lot of bleeding and is very painful for your dog. Some dogs are so bothered by nail trimming that they have to be sedated. If your dog seems very upset, do not attempt to continue with the trimming. Instead, talk to your vet or a professional groomer for some advice.

If a dog has not been properly exercised then his nails will may grown too long. When this happens, the quick may also grow longer than normal in order to provide nourishment to the entire nail. You will either have to leave the nail longer (however long the quick is) or opt for a more radical solution where a vet will cut both the nail and the quick down while the dog is under general anesthesia.

Proper grooming throughout the dog’s life can help avoid such a problem from occurring. Because it’s important to know what you’re doing when trimming a dog’s nails, the best idea is to leave this to the professionals. If you’d rather do it yourself, however, there are some tools that you will need to help make the job as simple and safe as possible.

Trimmers

There are several trimmers available. The two most common are the guillotine type and the scissor type. Many groomers recommend the guillotine trimmers, but you’ll want to have both on hand.

Scissor trimmers are easier to use on nails that have begun to curl. On other nails, the guillotine trimmers are the safest choice. The reason for this is that this type of trimmer features a ring that rests on the point of the nail that you want to trim. It remains in place as you cut, so it’s less likely that you’ll cut the nail too short.

Just in Case

You should keep some corn starch or a styptic pencil on hand in case you do trim too far and cut the quick. These will help stop the bleeding very quickly. Even without these items, the bleeding should stop on its own within about 5 minutes. If this isn’t the case, you’ll need to call your vet.

Whichever tools you decide to use, you will need to be careful not to trim too far. It’s much easier to safely trim a light colored nail than a darker one. That is because, with a light colored nail, the quick is easy to see, therefore you know exactly how far down to trim. When trimming light colored nails, it is safe to cut the nail in one clip. This is not the case with dark nails.

Since the quick is not visible through darker nails, it’s much easier to cut too far. To avoid this, trim in several small cuts. This will help to reduce the chance of you trimming too far.

If your dog seems especially sensitive to the trimmers, or if you are extremely nervous using them, there is another option for keeping your dog’s nails the proper length.

Dremel Tools

As an alternative to trimming, some owners and groomers have opted to use a dremel tool in order to keep their dog’s nails at an appropriate length. Dremel tools can be purchased at any hardware store. Think of them as a motorized nail file. Instead of trimming the nails, use this tool to file them down to the desired length. An important note: most dremel tools have both stone and sandpaper attachments. Only use the sandpaper, NEVER the stone attachments. Also, you will need to purchase a tool that offers several speeds. Only use the lowest setting.

So how often should you trim your dog’s nails? The answer is going to be different for every dog. What you should do is check the nails weekly to be sure they aren’t getting too long. Also, listen when your dog walks across the floor. If you can hear the click, click, click of their nails, then it is time to trim. Also, if you’re not completely comfortable completing this task, then it’s probably best to leave the nail trimming to a professional groomer.

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Dogs have essential oils on their coats. They call them essential because that is exactly what they are, necessary oils for the dog’s warmth and buoyancy. Some dogs have very thick oils. You can tell because when you wet them, they don’t get very wet. You have to wet their coats, use a little soap, and then wet them again to really get a good lather going. This is because those oils are there to help them be the master swimmers that they are.

Some dogs create these oils faster than other dogs. Most dogs can handle a good scrub down once a month. Even dogs with dry skin can fair well provided you use an oatmeal based shampoo and conditioner. I always thought conditioner was pampering a dog in a way that wasn’t necessary. But, I was wrong. It actually does a lot to help prevent dry, itchy, irritable skin. Some dogs have skin that is so sensitive that giving them a bath without a specialized conditioner can cause them to scratch mercilessly for days or until their human is kind enough to fix the problem, which usually requires an additional bath.

Using the once a month ideal as a guideline, most dogs smell as though they could use another bath long before that. This is usually intentional. A dog’s own aroma is part of his calling card, his identity. The fru-fru smelling shampoo you slopped all over him just isn’t part of who he is, and he is going to find way to cover it up. The most glaringly obvious example is the dog who launches out of the bathtub and straight to the backyard, where he has no problem finding some horrific smell to roll in. Less obvious examples are the more subtle attempts to get the smell of fruits and flowers off their backs. Rubbing up against their humans and lying on their backs ‘scratching’ along the carpeting. Even that constant licking they do when they get over the fact that their bath really did just happen to them is an attempt to rearrange the smells lingering all over their fur.

Since dogs prefer their dog smell to the more attractive smells humans try to impose on them, dogs are more likely need a bath more than once a month. Many dogs carry the same offending odor within a week. This can become a very frustrating game, especially if the dog sleeps in your bed and you wake up in the morning to that stale dog breath odor that clings to yesterday’s clean sheets. If you live in an apartment or small house, it won’t take long before the dog aroma has taken over your domicile, and the first thing you notice is the smell of your pooch from the front door.

Dogs with very healthy coats can handle a bath about once every two weeks, provided it’s done on a short term basis. Eventually, you will dry out their skin and their coat. However, if you have a particularly active water mongrel throughout the summer months, how often should I bathe my dog turns into why can’t I bathe my dog every day?

Even when your dog has a healthy coat and seems to be undisturbed by the extra bathing he may receive in the warmer months, you can’t expect his skin to hold out. After all, bathing a dog is a human element, not a dog’s natural tendency. In the wild, the most a dog may get is a splash through a stream and the work of his own tongue. His skin isn’t designed to handle the harsher soaps we use without considering their chemical make up. Expect some drying, and expect to select your shampoo cautiously.

In the meantime, there are a few things you can do to help control what he considers to be his best aroma. First of all, wash his bedding weekly. This may annoy him, but he will get over it. Freshly washed bedding has a way of ‘imprinting’ their more pleasant smell on the dog, even if it’s only for a short time. Again, be cautious of the chemicals you are willing to use. I can always tell when a member of our household has gotten enough of the dogs smell. For about twenty four hours our dogs have a wonderfully fresh clean, straight from the dryer scent to their heads. Of course, they think we’re out of our minds the way we like to sniff their heads during that time.

There are a handful of dry shampoos on the market designed specifically for ‘spot’ cleaning (forgive the pun) in between regular baths. These are different than dry shampoos used to replace conventional shampoos at bath time. These simply help to absorb odors that otherwise will linger everywhere.

Do not spray perfumes, colognes, or household air fresheners on your dog. You can cause serious skin irritations if you choose the wrong can of smelly stuff. While your frustration over the limited times you can scrub down Fido is warranted, you shouldn’t inflict him with products that are not designed to be safe for him. So, how often should I bathe my dog? Technically the answer is about once a month, a little more often during the summer months, and not nearly as often as the human world feels it’s necessary.

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Almost all dogs shed to some degree or another. Shedding can be worse during seasonal changes such as Autumn (when they shed the summer coat to prepare for a thicker winter coat) and Spring (where the thick winter coat is shed for the summer coat), but many dogs shed year-round. Coping with a shedding dog can be one of the most frustrating parts of pet ownership. But with careful management, and a little daily attention, most shedding can be reduced and managed.

Step One: Know Your Dog

Shedding is the natural process of loosing hair, and allowing a new coat to come in. Humans shed too- the hair on our heads is constantly being shed out, and new hairs growing in their place. We don’t notice it because a) we brush our hair several times a day, and the shed hair is accumulated into a brush and b) our coat is only on our head.

Almost every dog sheds all the time. Low shedding breeds such as poodles and some terriers are also breeds that tend to be kept clipped short- so their shed coat is not nearly as noticeable as that of other breeds.

The heaviest shedding types of dog are those with short coats, such as Corgis, German Shepherds, Labs and Jack Russell’s. Short coated dogs (not to be confused with smooth coated dogs, who shed also but to a lesser degree), have coats that are short in lenght, but extremely thick. The thickness of the coat means that large amounts of hair is constantly being shed, and will gladly rub off on furniture, carpets, and your favorite pair of pants.

Dogs with thick, double coats, such as Collies, Shelties, Chow Chows and Husky breeds have a coat that can be particularly difficult and high-shedding. These dogs shed a thick undercoat, which easily mats into their long outer hair. Their hair often appears to shed in clumps that appear on the floors, sofas and anywhere else your pet has rested.

Step Two: Brush, Brush, Brush!

Brushing your dog regularly is the single most effective thing you can do to reduce shedding. Remember, the hair is going to fall out either way- and it’s easier for you to deal with if it is on a brush, rather than all over your house.

In addition to removing hair that is already loose from your dogs’ coat, brushing loosens the hair at the follicle, and helps to remove hairs that are beginning to fall out. In double-coated dogs, deep, regular brushing removes the dead undercoat, allowing for a cleaner dog with less hair to shed around.

Aside from cutting down on shedding, brushing has a number of other health benefits for your dog. Regular brushing of all dogs, despite coat length or type, helps to keep the coat and skin healthy. Most dogs do not require frequent bathing (once a month or less!), but brushing in between bath times helps to keep them clean, removing dead hair, dirt and other debris from the coat.  Brushing also works to distribute the natural oils of the skin throughout the coat, promoting a healthier coat, and cleaner skin.

Choosing the appropriate grooming tools is a vital part of cutting down on shedding.

The slicker brush is one of the most commonly used brushes for long-hair dogs. Rows of tiny, bent wire teeth are set close together, and help remove mats and dead hair from within the coat of dogs. Slicker brushes are useful in shedding breeds, when a large amount of coat needs to come out, such as with short-coated dog, and silky coated dogs.

Pin brushes, the type that many people use on their own hair, work best for long coated dogs to brush out and prevent tangles, as well as in silky coated dogs once the undercoat has been thinned.

Grooming rakes have metal teeth with blades on the inside, and are effective for dogs needing to have lots of dead undercoat removed, or cut through tangles. Rakes should be used with caution, as the metal can injure the skin if used too vigorously, and even break the skin with misuse.

Short-coated dogs are best suited to a bristle brush, with softer bristles as to not injure the skin under the short coat.

In addition to brushes, there are a variety of combs and other products that can help to most effectively brush your pet and thin out the coat. When looking for the right tools, consult your groomer or local pet store to help find the appropriate match for your dog.

Step 3: Supplements

A complete, balanced diet is necessary for skin and coat health. Adding a multivitamin supplement, as well as an Omega 3 Fatty Acid supplement to your pets diet can help to further reduce shedding. Many brands and forms of fatty acid supplements are on the market and claim to reduce or stop shedding. Used alone you may not notice a great effect on your dogs shedding, but in conjunction with daily brushing fatty acid supplements can greatly improve your shedding problem.

Step 4: Check for Underlying Medical Problems

There is a difference between the average dog that sheds, and a dog that is loosing its coat due to a health problem. Even if you have a heavy shedding dog, you should never see bald patches or areas of thin hair emerge. If your dog begins to develop thickened skin, bald spots or areas of sparse hair, a medical problem may be to blame. Fleas, allergies and skin infections can cause irritation, bald patches and hot spots, while some endocrine disorders, such as hypothyroidism can cause the dogs skin to harden, and the hair to become very thin.

If you have any doubt about the quality or condition of your pets skin and coat, consult your veterinarian. Diagnosing an underlying problem will improve your pets health and comfort level, as well as cut down on unnecessary hair around the house.

The Final Word

Coping with a shedding dog usually requires a lifelong commitment, and a multifaceted approach to caring for your dog, as well as easy access to the vacuum cleaner and lint roller. But with some perseverance and daily attention, massive uncontrolled shedding can often be reduced to a manageable level.

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Have the Right Tools

One of the most common reasons people don’t like to trim their pets’ nails, and a reason why many pets resent having their nails trimmed, is because the wrong tools are used. The most important part of trimming your dogs’ nails is to have the proper equipment.

Nail trimmers come in many different shapes and sizes, as well as quality and effectiveness. Consult your groomer for their preferred brand or style, if you don’t have a one. Make sure you have the right size nail trimmers for your job- a nail clipper for a Labrador is probably overkill on a Chihuahua, and that Chihuahua’s clippers are no match for the nails on that hundred-pound Lab. For extremely small dogs, often cat nail clippers work best, and are easiest to use.

Never use human nail trimmers on any size of dog- they are not strong enough for the job, and instead of cutting the nail they will crush it, causing pain and instantly creating a bad experience for you and your dog.

In addition to good quality, sharp nail trimmers, get some styptic, quick stop powder. Even the most experienced dog groomer will accidentally cut too far, and having the bleed-stop powder on hand will save you lots of time and frantic running around when it’s needed.

Ready, Set, Trim!

The best time to get your dog accustomed to nail clipping is when he or she is a puppy. Dogs in generally do not like having their feet touch, and getting them used to this at a young age can save a lot of trouble when they are older. Older dogs can be trained and desensitized about their feet, but it is harder to accomplish. All dogs should be willing to let you hold their paws, touch the nails, and feel between the pads. If your dog objects, start to incorporate foot touching into very short sessions throughout the day, touching each foot briefly, then rewarding with a treat.

There is no excuse for your dog to become belligerent or aggressive when you touch his paws. Even if you decide to leave nail clipping to the groomer or vet, they will appreciate it so much more if your dog accepts the process without struggling or having to be muzzled. Many places charge more for nail trims on hard dogs- and over time, working with your dog could save a lot of money in difficult dog charges.

Most dogs need regular nail trimming in order to keep their nails at the optimum length. Long nails are the most common cause of chiropractic problems in dogs, and can contribute to joint pain and stiffness. Your dog’s body has been designed to walk with his pads on the floor, not the nails. If your dog’s nails are touching the ground, his nails are too long. If you can hear the nails clicking on the floor, they are too long. Regular clipping will help to prevent problems associated with long nails.

Properly restrain your dog so that he feels secure, and is unable to leave as soon as he realizes what you are doing. A smaller dog you may be able to do yourself- but with any big dog or dog that is skittish of the process, enlist someone to hold the dog while you concentrate on the nails.

Dogs have two types of nails- white nails, and black nails. White nails are the easiest to cut, because the blood vessel, or quick, can be easily seen within the nail, and avoided. Cut the nail back to just before the visible quick, in a short, confident movement. Remember, as long as you don’t cut the quick, there is no pain for your dog. That often won’t stop dogs from crying at the first nail or two, but they quickly realize you aren’t hurting them, and relent for the rest of the process.

Black nails are harder to cut, and it takes a little experience and guess work to avoid cutting the quick. Start by cutting just a small amount off of the end of the nail. Keep cutting in small amounts until you see a dot in the middle of the cut nail. This is the beginning of the vein, and that is as far as you should go.

If you do cut the vein, and quick your dog, it’s not the end of the world. Pack a small amount of quick stop into the bleeding end, and the bleeding should quickly stop.

Clip the nails angling upwards, and towards the dogs’ body. The quick is located on the bottom of the nail, and frequent clipping will help the vein to recede back. Often on the first try you may not be able to get the nails as short as you like- but continue cutting small amounts every few days, and the quick will soon recede further back, allowing you to shorten the nails further.

Remember the dew claw! Not all dogs have this ‘thumb’, but those who do will always need it cut back, as the nail is non-weight bearing, and has no way of naturally being shortened. In extreme circumstances, this nail can grow so long it can begin to curl around, even growing into the pad or skin of the dog. If your dog has dew claws, make sure to cut them every time.

You may not be able to clip every one of your dogs’ nails the first time out. Be persistent, and slowly you will earn your dogs trust. If you are still unsure, ask your vet or groomer to show you how to clip your dogs nails the next time you take him in. A little patience, a little persistence, and a treat for your dog at the end can make for a stress free nail trim for everyone involved.

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Dog grooming keeps the dog’s basic physical needs met and keeps him more socially acceptable. He smells better, he looks better, he’s more comfortable, and he’s less likely to become injured through snarling or nail catching.

While the vast majority of dogs equate a nail clipping procedure to the pleasantries of dental work without Novocain, it really isn’t all that bad. Nail grooming is an important part of the dog’s health. Clipping the nails keeps them from snagging as well as prevents the nail from curling around and growing into the skin, which can be a costly and painful issue to have addressed. It is simply easier on you and him to demand that he accept your need to trim his nails. Nails that are left to grow over several months without their due attention will actually hamper the pup’s ability to walk properly.

Dogs who are not regularly bathed aren’t the most attractive smelling dogs. The lack of bathing also leads to more matting of the hair, which is not only unsightly and painful, but can become a physical threat as well. If mats are left for an excessive period of time and they begin to pin up against the skin, they can cause inflammation and eventually even small cysts of the skin. Dogs who are free to play outside are likely to get all kinds of goodies caught in their fur, including but certainly not limited to burrs, twigs, and the ever threatening tick.

Dogs that require a basic trim to keep their little bangs out of their eyes should be regularly maintained to avoid fear biting arising from their inability to see. Just as humans aren’t able to properly view the world from behind locks of their own hair, neither can pups. In reality, when you allow the dog’s hair to overgrow their eyes, you are restricting not only their vision but their sense of security in the world. Touching them startles them, and in extreme cases, increases the likelihood of fear biting. Fear biting is the dog’s reaction to being terribly afraid and in an effort to defend himself from his perceived danger, he will bite before understanding what is occurring.

The care of the dog’s teeth is part of the basic overhaul that dogs require at a minimum every two weeks. Brushing the teeth and the use of a dog appropriate mouthwash helps to kill the bacteria, the bad breath, and the threat of periodontal disease. Annual cleanings are vital to the care of a domesticated dog’s teeth. Lacking the natural resources that wild wolves and feral dogs have in order to clean their teeth, domesticated animals are reliant upon their humans to make up for their dental needs.

While underestimating the importance of dog grooming is not necessarily an issue for about 50% of dog owners, understanding the proper implements to care for the dog is not quite so common. After all, the dog brush aisle is quite extensive, how are we supposed to know which brush matches our dog’s hairstyle? Undercoat rakes are naturally for undercoats. An undercoat can be determined by the ability pull out chunks of fur that seem to be coming from under the dog’s top layer of fur. German Shepherds are a prime example of a dog with an undercoat. The undercoat rake grabs the fur under the top layer and removes it. Small bristle brushes that look like rectangles with tiny metal teeth are good for dogs with heavier fur but no undercoat, like Irish Setters. Soft coat brushes are good for dogs with thinner fur such as Dalmatians.

The better the maintenance of the dog, the happier and healthier he will be. The importance of dog grooming is equivalent to the importance of feeding the dog. You can feed him really inexpensive, low quality dog food and he will not receive the same health benefits as he will from a higher quality dog food. A human can groom a little or a lot. While it is not vital to put little barrettes in your dog’s hair, keeping him clean, well brushed, and regularly bathed will go a long way toward his overall health and happiness.

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Not all toothpastes are the same. Just because toothpaste can work for humans doesn’t mean that it is appropriate for dogs. Humans are trained to spit out their toothpaste. A dog who can be trained to spit out their toothpaste will have a spot on national television. It is safer to purchase toothpaste designed for dogs and be sure not to use more than the minimum amount to prevent over-ingestion of the paste. Mouthwash made for dogs is also available, which is recommended as a supplemental tooth care routine at least once a week.

To use mouthwash in between brushings, simply saturate a cotton ball with the appropriate mouth wash and wipe the dog’s teeth thoroughly. Some dogs believe this is a treat while others believe you are out to torture them. If you can train your dog as a puppy things will go much smoother. It is easier to train your pup to sit for a mouth cleaning than an older second hand dog.

If you’ve adopted an older dog, use caution the first time you attempt to clean his teeth this way. Stand behind him and off to one side in an effort to prevent any attempts to bite or bulk. Always reward teeth cleaning time with a nice little treat afterwards. If possible, treat your dog with something other than a food reward. If nothing other than food gets through to him, make it a small food reward since you did just clean his teeth. However, part of the process is training him to tolerate the cleaning so it may be a little bit of give and take for awhile.

The younger you start brushing a dog’s teeth, the easier it will be on both you and your pal as he gets older. Most vets recommend either a weekly or biweekly brushing. Some vets feel that this is a little excessive, and thus they recommend a monthly brushing exercise. When training your puppy, it’s okay to brush every three or four days, using toothpaste only occasionally. Sometimes, you have to repeat the behavior often and follow through with a reward in order to train him to tolerate the process.

Using a pea sized amount puppy approved toothpaste, you are going to want to train your dog to tolerate short incremental brushstrokes throughout the entire process. Give him a moment in between these increments to swallow, and adjust. Dogs don’t always close off the back of their throat the way humans do, so there may be a little coughing and sputtering. This just means that you should make your incremental brushes smaller. Get all the teeth to the very best of your ability.

It is much easier to brush your own teeth, so take your time and don’t get frustrated. Try to make it a good experience for him. Give him some soft, soothing remarks about his good behavior, even if you have to act quickly to catch him being good about it. Dogs don’t like the feeling of a toothbrush in their mouth. Of course, they would chew it to pieces if given the opportunity but won’t tolerate the feel of the brush in the hands of their humans. Go figure.

Special dog toothbrushes work better than discarded human brushes. Many dog brushes are designed to slip over your finger and the only action required of you is to feel around his teeth to the best of your ability. These brushes are easier than the bristled type and do almost the same quality job. However, if you can’t manipulate the bristled type, then it’s completely ineffective. That would make the type you slip over your finger much more effective.

You can begin the process by brushing just a few teeth and then gradually increase the time and amount of teeth brushed every few days. This can prevent the scenario of fighting with your dog in a test of wills, which is likely to make him completely intolerant of the process and make you resent the idea of doing it. If he makes it too much of a fight from the beginning, you will not be likely to continue for long. If you take your time and make it fun for your pup, he may actually begin to enjoy the process, or at least enjoy the lavish praise and rewards afterwards, not to mention your beaming approval of his behavior.

Brushing a dog’s teeth doesn’t need to be a nightmare for either one of you. It takes a bit of patience and it takes a bit of time to help him adjust. But the patience and time pay off by helping to avoid dead teeth, lost teeth, and gum diseases that he can develop from never having his mouth cared for. Anyone who has ever had a serious tooth ache knows exactly how bad mouth pain can be. Dental care for dogs is much better than the mouth pain.

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First, look carefully at your dog. Feel his coat. Is it shiny? Is it dull? When you scratch him thoroughly do you get his skin cells under your fingernails? How often does he scratch himself? Is he prone to allergies? Determining what is going on with your pooch is the first step in providing him the best shampoo for his needs. Since all dogs are unique, there isn’t one single best shampoo option out there.

Dogs with dry skin and dogs with allergies are likely to scratch just as much, regardless of which one plagues them. In some circumstances, the dog is suffering from a combination of both dry skin and allergies. If your dog has dry skin, you will have the urge to clean out form under your fingernails after scratching him. On dark surfaces, he may even leave behind flakes of doggie dandruff. It’s not very pleasant, but it is part of the package sometimes. Dogs like this often benefit from a specialty shampoo, since washing their fur strips away a lot of their essential oils and dries them out further. Some dogs actually require the use of a conditioner as well. A conditioner for dogs is designed to replace the essential oils that you just removed from the bath, often with a base of oatmeal. Oatmeal shampoos and conditioners are highly recommended for dogs with dry skin problems.

Even if your dog has dry skin, try to assess the situation and give him your best educated guess regarding the possibilities of allergies. While some allergies will go undetected unless a veterinarian checks them out thoroughly, some allergies can be detected by lay human’s eye. Start under his chin. Dogs with allergies tend to rub the bottom of their face a lot, after all, this is one part of their body that comes in contact with allergens on a regular basis that is easy for him to reach and relieve. Redness, cracking and crazing, small bloody spots or tiny scabs, and inflammation along the bottom of his chin can indicate allergies. Take a peek inside his ears. Small, sensitive to the touch bumps can also indicate allergies, especially in dogs who have floppy ears. Patches of redness and even remnants of blood along the paws, flaring of the belly, and slight swelling of the genitals can indicate allergic reactions.

Dogs who have the basic signs of allergies benefit from shampoos for either dry skin or for those with skin allergies. Not all markets carry shampoos for skin allergies, and in a pinch, dry skin shampoo should help. If your dog seems to be in increased discomfort after a bath, scratching himself to oblivion, follow his shampooing with an oatmeal conditioner whether he has dry skin, allergies, both, or neither.

All shampoo is going to try to appeal to your sense of smell. After all, the main reason we go through the hassle of bathing our pups is because they stink. Replacing his hard earned dog aroma with something more pleasant is a natural desire. When selecting a dog shampoo, try to avoid shampoos that are too heavy on the perfume. This will not only encourage your dog to try to roll the scent off his body, but it often leaves him oily in an unnatural way.

Dog shampoos that are made from more natural ingredients are best. While many 100% organic products may fail in getting your dog completely clean, natural care lines are usually crafted with an eye toward being as gentle as possible to your dog’s fur and skin.

For pups with dull, almost lacking coats, you can purchase shampoos and conditioners to help restore shine and even volume. Increasing protein (especially salmon) in his diet while using these shampoos and conditioners can help save a ravaged coat.

No matter what type of shampoo you select, over washing your dog will lead to dry skin, even if his skin seems healthy to start with. Using gentle products once every three to four weeks will keep him clean while sparing his coat and skin, and not to mention your nerves, the excess often associated with over bathing.

Take your time when you are trying to select a dog shampoo. Read labels, compare what the shampoos and conditioners offer versus what your dogs skin and coat really need. In most cases, you will be able to find the perfect shampoo that is gentle on your pup. If you purchase a shampoo that doesn’t live up to its promises, avoid continued use just because you purchased it. You can either return it to the store or just move on and buy something else. Once you find that you have succeeded in selecting a dog shampoo that works perfectly for both of you, you probably won’t stray from it unless his needs change.

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