Contrary to the long standing opinion that barking is merely a response to boredom, current research shows that it is instead a specific form of communication used among dogs, along with body language and olfactory (smell) messages. There are several types of specific barks, each with a distinct sound and purpose.

Warning barks are the most common type of barking, and often most people encourage and accept this type of barking. These barks are meant to alert others of potential danger or o a suspicious person. As a person approaches, warning barks may become more rapid and strong. Aggressive barks are similar to warning barks, but tend to be lower in pitch and accompanied by growling.

A dog stuck outside will commonly voice his concern at the situation with isolation barks. Isolation barks are usually higher pitched than warning barks, and often occur as single barks in an increasingly insistent tone, calling attention to their plight, like; “Remember me? I’m Out HERE!”

In addition, dogs have different types of barks for play, boredom, fear and anxiety. Although this barking is all part of normal behavior, some dogs are more frequent and excessive barkers than others, and this barking can often become a serious training issue.

In moderation, all of the above types of barking is perfectly normal behavior- however in some cases, excessive barking can become a pathologic problem for your dog, a type of obsessive-compulsive behavior which can lead to a disruptive home, community and even endanger the dogs life if ignored.

The first step to curb excessive barking in your dog is to rule out possible underlying medical causes. Dogs who bark excessively may be suffering from separation anxiety, cognitive disorders, chronic diseases or pain. These problems typically cause the dog to have greater anxiety and restlessness, and be more likely to respond vocally to stimuli. Older dogs in particular may begin to suffer from neurological changes, hearing and vision loss, more frequent trips to relieve themselves and discomfort, all which may make them more prone to vocalize.

Genetics can also play a part in excessive barking. Breeds of dogs such as hounds, and those bred to be watchdogs, as well as many dogs from the working breeds are more prone in excessive barking.

Once medical causes have been ruled out, it is important to examine the living situation of the dog, to see if there are obvious causes to the barking that might be altered to provide fewer stimuli. For instance, the barking of a dog that sits at a window all day as people go might be easily remedied by a set of curtains. If your dog barks when he is outside and you are gone for the day, try changing their scenery. Bring him inside the house, or find an indoor area to confine him in without as many distractions. Because dogs who are left outside in the yard tend to bark more in response to boredom and loneliness, Increasing your interaction and going for more frequent walks may help satisfy their needs, and curb barking.

Behavior modification aims to resolve the underlying causes of the behavior, as well as change the dogs response to stimulus through positive reinforcement. Consulting with a dog trainer or behaviorist will greatly increase your chances of success using behavior modification. Behavior modification is most easily accomplished in younger dogs that are still more readily trainable, and investment into proper training while young will improve both of your relationships in the long run.

A more severe form of behavior modification comes in the form of anti-bark collars, which utilize negative reinforcement to teach the dog not to bark. These collars come in two basic forms. The electrical stimulation collar automatically delivers a small shock to the dog when he barks. If he continues to bark, the strength of the correction is increased until the barking stops. Because the collar is automated, you do not need to be present for the collar to correct your dog from barking, and when your dog is quiet, there is no correction.

Citronella collars are similar to electrical stimulation collars, however their correction comes in the form of a sudden mist of herbal spray into the dogs face. Because dogs have a natural aversion to citronella, they learn to avoid the correction by reducing barking.

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often bark excessively, and due to this medical condition may not respond as well to behavior modification and training as other dogs. Your veterinarian may recommend a trial of medication to reduce anxiety in addition to behavior modification exercises to make your dog more comfortable.

Although excessive barking can be one of the most frustrating and disruptive habits to curb, a careful approach utilizing a combination of training, behavior modification and potentially training aids and medication can help curb your dogs habit, restoring the calm to your household.

The post Excessive Barking appeared first on .

This is one of the most challenging problems that dog owners try to get rid of. Also try to remember that digging is a quite enjoyable pastime and a natural tendency for dogs. If your dog loves digging, provide him with his own digging pit just as parents would provide their child with a sand box. Take some of his favorite dog toys and let him watch you make a fuss over burying them. Call your dog over and help him dig things up. Once your dog understands that digging in his pit is an acceptable and enjoyable activity, you can teach him that digging elsewhere is forbidden.

The first step is to teach your dog to stay completely off the flower and vegetable gardens. Each time he gets close to the wrong area, quietly warn him by saying “Off.” If he stays away immediately praise him, and he will learn not to go near those areas (unless there is really truly something interesting under those bushes). If Woofer continues to dig everywhere and even tears into the rug or couch in the house, it could mean something more serious is happening, that he may be stressed or even bored. If you cannot easily discern the reason for your dog’s digging, you can try and observe them without them knowing that they are being watched. If a dog thinks he is left to himself then it will go about his usual routine and that includes his digging. You can usually find out then what could be the source or cause for him to dig.

Your dog needs to be mentally challenged daily and if he is not given one, then be assured that he will create one. Your dog may dig to seek entertainment, attention, comfort, escape, prey, or protection. (Despite how you might feel sometimes, your dog won’t dig out of spite, revenge, or a desire to destroy your yard.) Please keep in mind that if your dog is digging in order to escape or protect themselves (and by that I mean from the elements, heat, water and cold) then make sure they have a sturdy doghouse that is insulated for the appropriate weather, that they have a big sturdy water dish that is always full and that you are keeping an eye on them to avoid any problems. I know that people will go so far as to bury bricks and chicken wire under the fences if their dog is prone to always trying to dig under fences and other things. If you are going to do that, just make sure that the bricks are placed over the wire so that your dog cannot hurt himself if he happens to dig to it. One doesn’t want to find that Woofer has cut his paw by doing that, to the point where a trip to the dreaded and expensive vet is needed.

One thing to also keep in mind if you see your pooch digging is that certain breeds are natural diggers more so than others. Terriers are an excellent example of this; they are born to “dig” after rodents and the like. Another thing to keep in mind that despite all the training you can perform with your dog or put him through it, some dogs are just going to continue digging, and perhaps not in the area that you have designated for that very purpose. You will also have live with your wonderful dog running up to you now and again, completely covered in mud from a fun time of digging and slobbering and then going to have a nice drink of water, but what can you do? Sigh loudly and then take him off to have a bath. Regardless of how this turns out, remember that you just have to love Woofer the way that he is.

The post Digging – How to Train a Dog Not to Dig appeared first on .

However, dogs growl for more reasons then defense and many are great talkers (not barkers – talkers). Each type of growl comes with its own meaning, body language and way to respond appropriately. Learning what your dog is ‘saying’ with each growl will help you to understand them better.

The Mean or Offensive Growl

The Mean Growl is completely distinct and if you are ever on the wrong end of this warning, you are well aware of what the dog is trying to say. The dog is on the defense and his body language is intense, entirely focused forwards on you. His ears are forward, he is on his toes and leaning into the growl, his lips are severely curled but often his mouth will be partially closed. His hackles are up and his tail is coming up over his back – everything on his body is pointed in your direction and he is telling you ‘come any closer and I will attack you’. This dog is serious and no one wants to be on the end of this growl.

The only way to diffuse the situation is to slowly back away. Do not make eye contact, talk quietly in a happy voice and avoid any sudden movements. He may match your retreat step for step but no matter how much you may want to, do not turn and run. Get out of that situation and somewhere safe.

The Warning or Defensive Growl

A defensive dog is more hesitant and in many ways, he is more dangerous then the offensive dog. The defensive dog is fearful and unsure of his ability to protect himself so he is harder to predict.

His body language in comparison to the offensive dog is pulled back. His ears are flat and pointing back, his teeth are showing but his lips are pulled severely back. He will lean away from you and maybe at an angle versus straight on confrontational. His hackles will be up but his tail may be down, at an add angle or tucked under his belly.

The defensive dog does not want a confrontation but will sometimes attack in an effort to show his strength in a bluff move (think of a cat getting bigger in the face of danger). If he does attack, he will bite and run, not hold on. Again, backing away slowly is your best course of action but watch him; this is the dog that will try a sneak attack if you turn your back. Face to face, he is unlikely to attack with any force.

The Play Growl

Dogs growl when playing with each other. Listen to a litter of pups and it sounds like world war III most of the time. Growling is normal communication for dogs and in a play situation, it is like a human egging on the other during a pillow fight. It is strictly to illicit the desired behavior from the opponent and not meant aggressively.

The body language of a play growl is alert but relaxed.  Lips are loose, covering the teeth, ears are in their natural play position, hackles will be down and the tail is in its typical play position. This is not a serious situation unless you are the toy!

Depending on your personal situation, you may want to discourage this growl behavior. For example, if you have children and their friends often visit, a play growl can scare a child that is not used to being around a dog. In addition, if you have a large or giant breed, this play growl could seem a lot more serious to then in a small dog.

The Talkie Growl

Some dogs tell you what they want by barking while others give you ‘the look’ and then there are some that use a growl to get your attention. Usually the dog’s body language is neutral or suggestive of ‘follow me’ – alert again but comfortable in their surroundings. As doggy/human communication goes, this is usually worth listening to as it often means they need to go outside, their water dish is empty, the house is on fire – you know, anything that they want you to deal with now, not in a few minutes.

The many growls have many meanings. Learn to read your dog’s moods and body language and you will learn to understand what they are telling you. Remember that not all dogs communicate exactly the same so if you an unknown dog is growling at you, always take it seriously – back away and do not approach again until the owner is around.

The post Why do Dogs Growl – Learn What Each Type of Growl Means appeared first on .

Puppies communicate with their littermates by making all sorts of noises – growling, mewing, yipping, chattering, howling and, of course, barking. They quickly learn that barking gives the most immediate response – either mom comes running or a littermate quickly pounces. When they go to their new home, they have no idea that barking is not acceptable so training must begin right away.

With a young puppy, it is hard to correct the behavior in the same way you would correct an adult – they do not know what the word ‘no’ means yet and using methods such as a spray gun may be a little harsh for a new pup. However, training them in a passive manner does work and once they understand the word ‘no’, to switch to typical training methods will continue on the work. Training a dog not to bark can be just as hard as training to use large dog doors when they need to use the bathroom.

‘Passive methods’ mean methods that do not include a typical correction but instead use the pup’s own language to train them. For example, if the pup is barking to be let out of his crate, do not let him out until he is quiet. If he is barking for his dinner, do not feed him until he is quiet. If he is barking at his toy, do not throw it for him. By reacting neither positively nor negatively to him making noise, he will learn that barking does not get him the results it did when he was still with his littermates and mother. Instead, he must learn to ask for what he wants in a different way – bringing you his toy, standing by his food dish and whining when he needs out of his crate.

And, in turn, when he is lying down quietly or playing peacefully, tell him ‘good boy, good quiet’ and the first time he stands by his food dish to let you know he is hungry, reward him immediately so that he knows without a doubt that that was the correct way to ask.

But what happens if you adopt an adult dog that already barks or even after all your good intentions, he is still a barker? Don’t worry, it is not too late.

First, stick with the rules listed above – ignore him when he barks and reward him when he is quiet. Next, an adult dog knows what the word ‘no’ or an ‘ah ah ah’ noise means – stop what you are doing immediately. Part of the trick is to stay calm yourself. Too often we escalate the problem by getting upset at the dog which either makes him think this is a fun game or that there must be a good reason to bark if ‘mom’ is so upset.

Lastly, stopping the bark before it happens is important. Sounds crazy but it is easy to read a dog’s mind if you pay attention. Watch his facial expression and you will soon learn his ‘pre-barking’ face. Many dogs open their mouths and pause before they bark. Others will twist their ears around or get a wild look in their eyes or look away from you for a second. The easy ones do all three. As soon as you see a change in his mannerisms and you know he is about to bark, say ‘no’ firmly or ‘no bark’ if he knows the word. He will probably close his mouth and give you an odd look like ‘how did you know what I was about to do…’. Stopping the thought process before it can become an action is the most effective way to train a dog for anything, not just barking.

Persistence and patience is the key to training your dog not to bark. Some breeds are more difficult then others but the system is the same – discourage inappropriate barking while encouraging quiet methods of communication.

The post Training Dogs Not to Bark appeared first on .

A confident pup begins with a confident brood bitch. Her behavior often maps the behavior of her offspring and if she is a shy, hesitant bitch that startles easily, there is a good chance that her pups will be similar. Behavior is genetic to a degree but it is also learned and if mom reacts to loud noises, her babies will react in a similar fashion. A confident bitch will raise confident pups.

Pups are born with only one sense – the sense of smell. They spend the first few weeks sleeping and eating, reacting only when mom walks away or steps on them. Interaction with humans is essential at this time. It causes the pup a mild stress reaction but that stress reaction helps them to develop into stronger, well-adjusted adults.

At about three weeks of age, their eyes open and slowly their eyesight comes in. They also begin to hear about this time and move from crawling to walking. They start interacting more with their mother and siblings and will begin to react favorably to familiar humans. Oddly, there is very little fear at this period in their life. They may complain and huddle together when mom leaves the nest but they do not react fearfully to loud noises or sudden movement.

The first fear period begins at five weeks old and peaks between eight and ten weeks of age. This period also coincides with the first big adventures the pup will experience – its first car ride, visits to the vet, leaves the litter to go to its new home, etc. Anything traumatic that happens during this critical stage imprints in the pups brain and a fearful dog begins to develop.

The next fear period is between six and eight months of age. This one is worse then the first – perceived traumas are greater and the impact on the pup’s behavior is greater. This period also coincides nicely with when the pup is normally spayed or neutered and begins their obedience training.

So what do you do to keep your pup from becoming a fearful dog? Start with the brood bitch. Does she seem stable and confident? Is she friendly, outgoing and intelligent? Is she a good mother – disciplining her pups when needed, playing with them periodically, checking on them and generally interacting with the litter? Now what about the litter? They should be curious, friendly, happy, playful and interacting with their siblings.

Question the breeder about their practices for vaccines, vet visits and socialization. The first visit car ride should happen when the pups are at the beginning of this fear period and it should be to a ‘happy’ destination like a friend’s backyard for a play session. The first vet visit should also happen around this time and it too should be ‘happy’ only – just a chance for the vet to go over the pups but no vaccines or awful pokings at this point. The more the pups get outside and explore their environment in a positive way, the less fearful they will be as adults.

The next thing would be what is the best age for bringing your new pup home? Most breeders say eight weeks but this can also coincide with the peak of their first fear period. Although the two weeks between eight and ten weeks is one of the best times with a new pup, it may be best to leave them with the breeder and their mother until they are a little older. Try taking the pup home for a few hours a day for a few days so that their first night away is less traumatic and ease them gently into their new life.

At ten weeks old, the first fear period is usually over and your pup should be ready to take on the world. The more they are exposed to at this time, the better off they will be in the end. During the next fear period, try to shelter the pup from traumatic incidents – have them spayed or neutered at four months of age (there is no harm doing this early and in fact, early spay and neuter is actually becoming preferred for many reasons).

If after all that you have done, your dog ends up fearful or maybe you have adopted a fearful dog, there is much you can do to help them recover. Exposing them to what scares them in a safe, supportive manner will help. Take the fear of the vet for example. If the dog has only ever been to the vet for vaccines, nail clipping and ear cleaning, of course they are going to have issues with the vet, his staff and the building. Begin by taking the dog by once a week or so for a ‘meet and greet’. Have the staff and vet give him a biscuit and pet him, then leave. A quick, happy, positive visit did not involve anything scary. You do not want to force him too much, nor do you want to coddle him. More importantly, stay happy yourself and ignore his fear – he will take the cue from you that there is nothing to fear. Over time, he will associate the vet with these happy visits and not always the horrible place where bad things happen to him. This should be done with young pups as well although phone ahead to ask when is a good time and if there were any infectious animals in the building in the last 48 hours to prevent your pup being exposed to any diseases.

Fearful dogs can be a handful but patience and work will see them through the trauma.

The post Preventing and Dealing with a Fearful Dog appeared first on .

Beating your dog over his little accidents is a clear sign that you are not in control of the situation, both in the world of humans and that of canines. You want to educate him, not challenge him. He wants to make you happy and earn your approval.

If you have decided to crate train, then potty training will be much easier. After all, most dogs will not use their crate as a bathroom, and provided you take them outside right away when you let them out, he’ll get the message sooner rather than later. Be sure you reward him for his efforts. If he’s a puppy, you may have to carry him outside when you initially start the process. You’ll likely get excited bursts of trickles as he runs for the door, and if he’s particularly wound up, he may not make it at all.

Most people adopt a puppy at 8 weeks of age. While emotionally we believe this age is an appropriate time for the puppy to leave his mother, some breeders are realizing that 12 weeks seems to be better. At 8 weeks, there is still a lot of under-development happening in his little body, especially his bladder. Their bladders don’t develop to the point of maturation until about 12 to 16 weeks. Thus, even when crate training, accidents can happen. Keep your puppy’s age in mind before you get too aggravated. That would be the same as expecting your one and a half year old to learn to use the potty. A bit early due to physical development, not emotional readiness.

Whether you are crate training or paper training, don’t allow your not quite house broken pal to roam around the entire house. You will find that he will choose rooms that aren’t regularly used as his toilet. Keep him confined to where the family is. This not only allows someone to keep a gentle eye on his needs, but also allows him to understand that there is living going on in these rooms. Dogs don’t like to use their living space as a toilet. If you notice that one room seems to be getting less human use and more toilet use, block that room off as well. Sometimes we are unaware of our habits until there is a reason to study them.

Even if you have closed off most of the house to your dog’s access, when you leave the house he is going to need additional confinement. Whether you use a crate or not, if he is left to wander then he is left to his own devices. Dogs who are left to their own devices tend to get into trouble. Set up a place that you’ll know he’ll be comfortable (and nothing will be ruined if he messes up) and place a dog gate across the doorway. Don’t just close the door. He’s likely to scratch and claw and that will just ruin the door.

Set yourself up in a potty training a dog routine. When everyone wakes up in the morning, take the dog out, reward him. If he eats his meal in the morning, wait five minutes, and take the dog out, reward him. When he wakes up from his naps, take the dog out, reward him. Before you leave the house, take the dog out, reward him. Upon returning home, take the dog out, reward him.

Dog will usually need to go to the bathroom when they wake up, after a serious play time, and about five minutes after they eat. By setting yourself on a schedule that allows him to go as his body naturally would, your chances of success are much greater.

You little guy is going to have accidents. Consider them your accidents, not his. If he’s having accidents in the house, realize that you have either missed his cues or you broke from the schedule. Use a simple noise to correct him, like a low grumble growl that expresses your displeasure, and take him directly outside, even before you clean it up. If he does the right things out there, reward him despite your displeasure about what’s left for you inside. Hopefully, you have a second pair of hands that can clean it up while you’re outside with the pup.

Rewarding your dog for a job well done is the biggest key to getting them to understand what you want from them. Your expectations, regardless of their age, are new to them. No matter how much they wag their tail and slop you with kisses, if you can’t communicate your expectations, they will forever fail you.

Potty training a dog is simple, but not easy. Because we are an emotional species, we tend to allow our emotions become an interfering factor in our dog training. We get frustrated, and even sometimes, hurt and angry. After all, we’re giving them everything they need in life, so why can’t they just stop making messes on our homes? They will. As soon as they understand what it is you truly expect and accept your desires as their own. They just need your leadership.

The post Potty Training a Dog – Solving Pee Problems appeared first on .

Try to avoid the fight

If you have two dogs at home who don’t get along, there are some things you can do to minimize their “issues.” Dogs often fight over territory, food, toys, and jealousy. They could fight over things like their favorite sleeping spot, for example. Or if you have intact dogs, then a girl in season can cause fights. Sometimes dogs fight over their owner’s attention.

If your dogs are fighting over food at mealtime, you can separate them when they eat. Feed them in separate rooms or in crates. This can prevent fights and you can make sure that both dogs are eating their own food instead of growling at each other. If your dogs are fighting over a particular toy, remove the toy. If the dogs are fighting over your attention, try to make special time for each dog to receive some attention.

In these cases it helps if the dogs learn some obedience training. Not only will this training give you some good bonding time with each dog, but it will reinforce your role as the one in charge. Obedience training also increases the chances that your dogs will listen to you if they begin to posture and glare at each other.

If your dogs do start to show signs that they might be headed for a fight it often helps to distract them with something they like. Get out a ball or toy and call them for a game in the yard. Get their minds off each other. Keep things cheerful. Or you can separate them, if you can do so safely, and put them in separate rooms or separate crates, until they cool off.

Breaking up a Dog Fight at Home

As a last resort, if your dogs are actually fighting, there are several things you can do to break up a fight. One thing that I have found effective if the dogs are outside is turning a hose on them. The shock of the cold water will usually make them stop fighting, at least long enough for you to move the aggressor indoors and stop the fight.

If the dogs are indoors you can fill up a pitcher or pot with cold water and pour it on them to achieve the same effect. They should stop fighting long enough for you to move one of the dogs to a separate room or crate.

You can also throw a blanket over the dogs to stop a fight. This makes it harder for them to see and hinders them enough to slow down the fight. You can grab one of the dogs and separate them.

Warning

Whenever you are trying to break up a dog fight you should proceed with extreme care. People are bitten all the time when trying to interfere between two dogs. It’s not because the dogs are trying to bite you. Dogs in a dog fight are more or less in a fighting frenzy, with jaws snapping in every direction. If your hand or arm, or even leg gets in the way, it will get bitten. (One of my earliest memories is hearing about my aunt being bitten while trying to break up a dog fight.) Dogs in this situation are not necessarily vicious but the adrenaline is pumping and they are in a serious fight. You can get hurt.

Stay away from the head, mouth, and front of the dogs. Don’t try to reach for the dog’s collar, at least not until he is well clear of the other dog. It’s best to try to handle the dog from the ribs back to lessen your chance of being bitten accidentally. If you can throw a blanket on the dog and handle him through the blanket, that’s better.

It’s not easy when you have two dogs in your household that don’t get alone. In most cases one of the dogs will eventually assert his dominance and the other dog will accept a secondary position, but there may still be dust-ups occasionally. You might want to consider re-homing one of the dogs if the fights continue.

Breaking up Dog Fights Outside the Home

There are also times when your dog may be accosted outside the home. You could be minding your own business, walking your dog, and another dog attacks him. Or, things could get out of hand in a dog park. In some cases, it might be your dog that attacks another dog, no matter how loving and sweet he is with you. Here’s some help about how to break up a dog fight outside the home.

Avoiding a fight

There are some things that people recommend to help avoid a dog fight:

• Carry an umbrella
• Carry pepper spray if it’s legal in your area
• Carry an air horn

You get the idea. All of these things can be used to defend yourself and your dog if another dog attacks you.

Another thing you can do is learn to read a dog’s body language. The sooner you recognize that another dog is approaching you with hostile intentions, the better. This allows you time to decide what to do. If you have a small dog you can pick him up. If you have a large dog you can tell him to heel and then turn to leave.

In most cases it’s best to turn and walk away slowly. Don’t yell, don’t run, don’t act scared. Just walk away with your dog. Do NOT stand and make eye contact with the other dog.

Breaking up a fight

If your dog is attacked by another dog outside the home, the first thing you need to do is drop your leash. Holding your dog back with the leash puts him at a disadvantage and he could be seriously injured. Allow him to defend himself.

Next, stay calm. It’s a dog fight and that’s bad but it will be over quickly. You can stop the fight. In most cases the attacker will be on top of the other dog so you need to wait and watch until you have a clear opportunity to grab the dog on top by his tail and/or rear legs and pull him off. Even if he’s a large dog and you’re a small person, you can do this. Grab his tail at the base and pull him off, keeping him off balance. Then start moving him in a circle to keep him off balance. This will look like you’re rolling a wheelbarrow. This should allow the other dog to get up and, we hope, move away. If there is another person nearby they can grab the other dog. If you have a leash with you, you can snap the leash on the dog you are moving in a circle so you can get him away from the scene. If he’s not wearing a collar, then tie the leash around his neck and move him away. If you have no leash, slowly circle him away from the scene. Improvise if you have to.

If there is more than one person with you, you can both grab the dogs and pull them apart by the tail and rear legs. Get leashes on them if possible. Remember that when you pull them apart by the tail and rear legs you need to keep moving them in circles so they are off balance. They will have to work on keeping their balance and won’t be able to worry about the fight.

When you separate dogs this way, you may not end up holding your own dog. Don’t be surprised if the dog’s owner is not happy with you or blames you or yells at you. So be it. It doesn’t matter. Stopping the fight is what’s important, especially if you can stop it without getting bitten. Everyone is upset when there’s a dog fight and people are defensive about their dogs. They might say things they regret later. Don’t worry about it. Just take your dog and check him out.

With any luck you have stopped the fight quickly and the dogs are not seriously hurt and no people have been bitten.

Fights with more than two dogs

If your dog is attacked by more than one dog it’s a bad situation and you really need help to break up the fight. If you have anything with you, such as an air horn, this would be a good time to use it. Try to call for nearby help as quickly as possible. It will probably take more than one person to remove the attacking dogs.

If possible, the best thing to do is try to avoid multiple loose dogs when you seem them approaching you and your dog. If the owners of the dogs are with them, they should try to help get the dogs to stop.

Dog fights can be dangerous not just for your dog but also for you. Remember to be careful and don’t put your hand or any part of your body near your dog’s face or head when trying to break up a dog fight. In most cases you can break up a fight, even in public, if you use the “wheelbarrow” approach and grab the top dog by the tail and rear legs, then keep him off balance by moving in circles. Good luck and stay safe.

The post How To Break Up A Dog Fight – Tricks of the Trade appeared first on .

Coprophagia or stool eating is perfectly normal for dogs. Bitches eat the stool and urine of their puppies to keep them, and their bedding, clean so predators cannot sniff the litter out. Wild dogs will eat feces when food is scarce and dogs suffering from digestion problems will often ‘recycle’ their dinner as a way of ingesting nutrients their bodies missed the first time through.

This does not help you to get over the shock and disgust the first time you witness their happy little feast. It is most common in puppies and it can help if you think of it as just another way of them exploring their world. Most grow out of the habit, much to their owner’s appreciation.

Adult dogs will partake in their own form of pooper scooping for a variety of reasons. The most common is their digestive system is not working sufficiently and not enough nutrients are absorbed the first time the food went through. If you feel this may be the problem or if other symptoms are present such as weight loss or lethargy, a visit to the vet is required. Sometimes medication is blocking nutrients or a lack of digestive enzymes in the system.

Other common reasons are hunger and boredom. Dogs that are on a restrictive diet for weight loss will look to their feces to fill the void and if a dog is left alone in the yard where there are feces, he may eat them because they were there. Both reasons are easily prevented by regularly scooping the yard (twice a day almost guarantees that coprophagia is not part of your dog’s daily routine).

There are several ways to prevent coprophagia. Punishment does not work and for a dog that is missing nutrients in their diet, aversion training does not work either, it only makes them sneak a snack when you are not looking. Adding pineapple or pumpkin to the dog’s diet changes the consistency of the stool, making it less attractive. Pineapple also contains a high level of digestive enzymes that may help the dog’s ability to absorb nutrients, addressing the problem from two angles.

There are commercial products on the market that will change the flavor of the feces to make it less agreeable. ‘Forbid’ is one such product and many owners swear by it, while some have not found much of a decrease in coprophagia episodes in their pets. Ask your vet which product he prefers as there are many on the market.

The common tricks like putting lemon juice or hot pepper on the poop does not work and if you are going to go to that much trouble, why not just scoop the yard?

Food quality and ingredients play an integral part of nutrient absorption. Try feeding smaller meals more frequently and look into the quality of the food – the higher the quality of the kibble, the easier it is for the nutrients to be absorbed and less poop produced for snacking. Dog food manufacturers rate the digestibility of their products and often post the information on their websites. If you cannot find it, send them an email or call them for the information.

Unfortunately, there is no magic formula for stopping your dog from enjoying his recycling behavior. Diligence, patience and keeping the yard clean are the main ways to combat coprophagia, at least until the pup outgrows the habit.

The post Dealing with the Stool Eating Dog – Fixing the Problem appeared first on .

Either way, crate training offers a lot of security to both the dog and the owner once the training has become a way of life. It is not cruel. Just recently we watched a friend’s dog for two weeks. Her crate came with her, at our insistence. It was the only place in the house that she felt completely secure while her family was away. This gave everyone their own space. This gave everyone their own time out place and their own sleeping place and their own waiting for us to come home place. Crates give dogs a sense of security when their world is off kilter.

The first rule of crate training a dog is to never ever use the crate as a method of punishment. Doing so will only harbor ill feelings toward the crate and make it an unpleasant experience for your dog. Imagine his little emotions when you slam him in there one day for having an accident while you were on the phone and then putting him in there the following day so you can go to work. He’s in there for the entire ten hours you’re away from home feeling punished and he won’t know what he’s being punished for. It can be tempting, because sometimes we just want to put them away until we feel more equipped to deal with them. But doing this becomes cruel, especially when it is done on a regular basis. Your pup may never know that he’s not being punished.

Your crate is designed to keep your dog safe. You would rather he not chew on your razor or eat glass while you’re not paying attention, thus he now has a safe place to be. Keep it safe by only putting in a few necessities, like a soft and comfortable blanket. Placing certain toys in there, like those he can learn to dismantle and digest despite his stomach’s insistence that he refrain, can make life hazardous for him. Placing him in there with a choker collar can completely end his life in an unintentional disaster. Rawhides can have the same result. While it is okay to put safe toys in there, understanding what is “safe” requires both research and understanding your dog. Maybe he’s not the type to eat the plastic coating he scrapes away and maybe he is. Some dogs are incredible garbage disposals while others are gentlemanly in their digestive decisions.

If you are crate training a puppy, remember that he will grow. When he’s a grown up dog, he will need ample room in the crate. He will need to be able to stand without hunching over, turn around, scratch an itch, and settle into a comfortable position. If he can’t do these things without touching the top of his crate it is too small. Placing a dog in a crate that is too small is cruel. Most pet supply places can help you pick out the right crate for your puppy with this in mind. You can make the crate smaller during his youth by using a partition and closing off the back portion of the crate. This may be necessary if he’s using the back part of his crate as a toilet. Part of the wonder of crate training is the ease of which housebreaking can be done. If the crate is too large, your little Einstein will find a way to satisfy all of his needs. If he’s urinating or defecating in the crate and making a mess of himself despite its appropriate size, get him to the vet. Either you’re gone way too long or he might have a health problem. Dogs don’t like to live in their fecal matter, unless they’ve been acquired form a puppy mill. If you brought your little one home covered in his own defecation, he may not be able to contain himself. Just one more reason to actively shut down puppy mills.

Successful crate training is in part successful knowledge of the topic. Before you start crate training a dog research it thoroughly so that you have a good idea how to address any problems that may arise. Most dogs will go along with the book, acting and reacting just as it is described in the text verbatim. Some dogs read the book before they got to your house and decided that everything in there was wrong, and they’ll prove it by acting exactly the opposite way the book projects. It’s rare, but it has been known to happen. In cases like this, the more knowledgeable you are, the more prepared you are to deal with Fido’s sudden fears, mishaps, behavioral stumpers, and canine quandaries.

The post Crate Training a Dog – What you Need to Know appeared first on .

When an animal intentionally performs a behavior in order to bring about a desired consequence, as clicker trained animals do, they are learning in a way that researchers call “operant conditioning.” Animals (and people) may also associate an action, event, place, person, or object with a consequence, whether pleasant or unpleasant. The more a certain event or environment is paired with a particular consequence, the stronger the association. This type of learning is called “classical conditioning” and represents reflexive or automatic behavior, rather than intentional behavior. While clicker training initially employs classical conditioning, it quickly becomes operant conditioning as soon as the animal intentionally repeats an action in order to earn a reward. Training through operant conditioning results in purposeful behavior, while training through classical conditioning results in habitual behavior.

The difference between an animal that behaves with purpose, rather than by habit, is vast. Clicker trained or operantly conditioned animals try to learn new behaviors. They remember behaviors even years later because they were aware of them as they learned them, rather than acquiring them without awareness. They develop confidence because they have control over the consequences of their actions. They are enthusiastic because they expect those consequences to be pleasurable. The essential difference between clicker training and other reward-based training is that the animal is told exactly which behavior earned it a reward. This information is communicated with a distinct and unique sound, a click, which occurs at the same time as the desired behavior. The reward follows. Without hearing a click during an action, an animal may not connect the reward with that action. Or, the animal may associate the reward with another, unwanted action. With the click, a trainer can precisely “mark” behavior so that the animal
knows exactly what it was doing. That’s why clicker trainers call the click an “event marker.” The click also bridges or connects the behavior and its reward, and so is also called a “bridging signal.”

A click is more powerful for training than a spoken word because it is not a sound heard by the animal in other circumstances. It means one thing only: a reward is coming because of what you did when you heard the click. It can be produced instantly and at the exact moment a behavior occurs. Even a very quick and subtle behavior, the twitch of an ear for example, can be clicked.

Unlike our voices, which can say the same word in different ways, and so express different emotions or meanings each time, the click sounds the same every time it is heard; its meaning never varies. Humans are highly verbal creatures, but our pets are not. It can be difficult for them to pick out a single word from the stream of meaningless words they hear us speak every day. The click’s meaning, however, is always clear. It is always directed at the animal, and it is always good news. The clarity with which a click enables trainers to communicate with their animals has a profound effect on their relationships. Their level of interaction increases, and trainer and animal become more interesting and fun for each other. The trainer clicks at the moment the behavior occurs: the horse raises its hoof, the trainer clicks simultaneously. The dog sits, the trainer clicks. Clicking is like taking a picture of the behavior the trainer wishes to reinforce. After “taking the picture,” the trainer gives the animal something it likes, usually a small piece of food but sometimes play, petting, or other rewards. Very soon (sometimes within two or three clicks), an animal will associate the sound of the click with something it likes: the reward. Since it wishes to repeat that pleasurable experience, it will repeat the action it was doing when it heard the click.

The post Clicker Training – Rewarding a Dog after a Click appeared first on .