The good news is, there are things you can do to protect your investment and keep your wood floors scratch-free. Here, national retailer Stories Flooring shares some of the best ways to prevent scratching wooden flooring…

Keep up with daily maintenance

Scratches can occur over time on wooden floors due to general wear and tear. Debris can wear down the protective layer of the floor, leading to minor scratches. Daily maintenance helps to keep debris to a minimum, preventing these types of scratches from developing.

To keep wood flooring clean each day, use a soft brush or a vacuum with a wood setting. Never use a rolling brush when vacuuming the floor as this will lead to tiny scratches. You can also prevent debris build-up by adding entrance mats to your doorways.

Use furniture pads

Nothing will scratch wood floors quite like heavy furniture. Dragging heavy furniture across the room can cause significant scratching across the floor’s surface. Even if it isn’t moved, the weight of the furniture can cause deep gauges within the floor over time.

To prevent this type of damage, use felt furniture pads. They can easily be placed underneath the legs of heavy furniture. This protects the floor whether the furniture is moved or not.

Make use of area rugs

Area rugs are great for protecting wooden floors. They can be placed in high-traffic areas, as well as underneath furniture such as coffee tables and TV stands.

Rugs don’t just help to prevent damage to the floor, they can also add warmth and comfort too. So, identify the area’s most at risk of scratches, then see if you can cover them up with a rug.

Avoid wearing high heels

One of the most common causes of scratches in wood floors is high heels. Walking over a wood floor in high heels is never a good idea. This is because high heeled shoes tend to have sharp edges. These can easily scratch the surface of the wood and the weight can also cause dents to form.

Ideally you should avoid walking over a wood floor in any shoes. However, high heels tend to cause the biggest issues.

Trim pet claws frequently

If you have a pet in the home, keeping their claws trimmed is going to help avoid scratches. Claws can be sharp, and the longer they are the more of a problem they will be. Whether you own a pet dog or cat, keeping their claws trimmed is important for their health as well as your floor.

So, there you have it – the best ways to prevent scratches on wood flooring. Whether you have hardwood or engineered wood floors, a little daily maintenance goes a long way to keeping them looking and performing like new.

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New Type Laminate Flooring – This smart floor is a newer and better type laminate flooring that gets closer to protecting and reacting to the natural use that is seen only in solid wood products. The decorative inner layer that is visible through the upper protective cover is infused with melamine resin for increased protection. It comes in a variety of colors and designs.

New Improved Underboard – The under layers are made of impermeable fiberboard made to withstand water, not just seeping moisture. The fiberboard is made from hard wood that has been compressed under high temperature and high pressure. Creators of this smart floor used the hard wood fiber in their fiberboard because of its natural resistance to water and humidity. It is this especially engineered core that gives smart floor its superiority over other products on the market.

Balancing Film – The underside or balancing film of each component is also infused with melamine impregnated resin giving yet another moisture resistant barrier to the flooring system. The inventors of this new laminate have also improved the interlocking system to make the joint stronger and more seamless than ever before.

Advantages of a Smart Floor – In addition to being wear resistant, the flooring is chemical resistant, stain resistant, and scratch resistant. It is also burn resistant, in case someone still smokes in the house and happens to drop a cigarette. The flooring resists ultra violet rays which can cause color change. The components are hypoallergenic, dust mite resistant, impact resistant and easy to clean. It is also not necessary to take up the old floor prior to putting down the new one. In other words, the smart floor can also be a floating floor installation.

Maintenance – This high tech laminate should be treated the same way as old laminate when it comes to cleaning and maintenance. A damp mop, almost dry, should be used for dusting purposes. Vacuuming will work as well. Wet mopping and using harsh cleaning chemicals should be avoided.

Using in the Bathroom – Increased water and moisture resistance make it an affordable possibility for use as a bathroom flooring. However, care should be taken with installation making sure that the flooring is sealed to protect against water or moisture seepage through the cracks of the joints. A good and careful read of the warranty prior to installation is a must.

Cost of a Smart Floor – Smart floor installation will be pricier than regular laminate, but it will still come in cheaper than solid wood or stone. For instance, marble can cost anywhere from $20-$100 per square foot. Wood can run from $10 per square foot and up to the stratosphere, depending on choice of wood. Compared to carpeting is can be less or more. Custom fabrications of carpeting can run as high as $100 per square foot.

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For one thing, hardwood floors in any room will add value and beauty to your new home; but wood floors in your kitchen will make the centerpiece room of the home much more inviting and enjoyable to be in. Wood floors are softer on your feet than ceramic tile and much more resilient than vinyl flooring. Technological advances in clear coat urethane finishes have made it possible to put hardwood floors in the kitchen without the fear that a spilled glass of water will mean the end of your investment; and hardwood floors are a solid investment for your new home. Hardwood floors will last for generations if properly cared for. Many homes over a hundred years old still have the original hardwood flooring in them. Value conscious homeowners have realized that hardwood flooring in their homes increases the value of their home at the time of resale also. One reason for the popularity of hardwood is that wood flooring can be maintained easily for years to come with simple sweeping and the occasional application of a floor cleaner.

Twenty years ago, a person had very few options when it came to purchasing quality wood flooring for their home. Today, the options available in hardwood flooring are every bit as extensive as vinyl or ceramic and include different shapes (natural wood planks in widths from 2” to 12”, and engineered wood planks that are available in squares, rectangles and even specialty patterns, including a multitude of natural wood finishes from white pine to dark cherry). There are also many species of natural wood flooring to choose from, depending on your budget. If you are particularly cost conscious, then a basic yellow pine floor can give you a mountain cabin look that is very popular today in our back-to-the-basics economy, but for those who are putting more of their new home budget into the hardwood flooring in the kitchen, they can choose from a variety of oak floorings, or step up to an exotic like bamboo and mahogany or even iron wood.

Another option that needs to be considered when selecting hardwood flooring for the kitchen is how it will be finished, and part of the decision-making process for which finish to use is to ask the question: who will install it? If you are thinking about installing the wood flooring, then you need to be very honest with yourself concerning your skill level when it comes to sanding and applying the final finish. Installing wood flooring is not the typical DIY project, but a person with a reasonable amount of carpentry skills can install a wood floor if they have the proper tools and patience. If you are going to install the flooring, and you are not a flooring installer by trade, then I highly recommend that you purchase a pre-finished wood floor covering; either natural wood or one of the many engineered wood flooring products, because the finish should be considered the most important aspect of the wood floor. You can start with the best wood and install it in an impeccable manner, but if the finish (sanding and urethane) is not done properly, your wood floor will not look good and will not last as long as it should.

If you have decided to have a professional install your wood flooring in the kitchen, great; you can go with either finished or unfinished. The pre-finished product still offers a decided advantage over the unfinished, even if you are having it professionally installed. Generally speaking, the factory will do a better job of sanding and sealing the wood than most installers. The reason is obvious: the factory is a controlled environment and your house under construction is not! Regardless of the choice you make, finished or unfinished, make sure you only hire an installer with references that you can check and jobs that you can go see (while wood flooring is comfortable to walk on, beautiful to look at and easy to maintain, it is not very forgiving in the installation department). You don’t want to find out after the fact that your floor was the first floor this person ever installed.

Once you’ve made the decision to select hardwood flooring for your kitchen, you need to start shopping for your new floor. Just as you don’t want to cut corners by hiring a cheap installer, you don’t want to save money by looking for the deal of the century. What should you consider when picking a supplier for your flooring?

1. Does the store specialize in wood floorings? If they carry many different varieties of flooring they may still be a good resource, but you can’t be good at everything. A store that specializes in wood flooring should have a knowledgeable sales staff that can help you make the best choice for your particular situation and offer a wide variety of products to choose from.
2. Do they offer installation? If they specialize in wood flooring and have a knowledgeable sales staff and a great product selection, they probably offer installation because they want to ensure that the hardwood flooring you’ve purchased from them goes down correctly and looks great for many years to come. Another reason to consider having them install the floor is that they will guarantee the wood and the work. It will be tough to find an independent carpenter with the financial backing to offer a guarantee and actually be able to stand behind it and make it good.
3. Do they have completed jobs you can look at and customers you can talk to? Anyone that is seriously in business will have both and they should have an abundance of them. A lack of either type of reference should throw up a red flag and let you know that your search for the best supplier is not over yet.

Installing hardwood flooring in your kitchen is a good decision, and if properly cared for, it will give you many years of enjoyment. Plan on spending some quality time with a few suppliers before making a final decision; after all, a hardwood floor is an investment in your new home’s future.

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Floating Floors

The beauty of floating floors is that they lock or glue together at their edges, but do not require adhesion to the subfloor with adhesive or nails. Rather a floating floor “floats” on a cushioned underlayment designed specifically for this application. Glue together styles have faded in popularity due to the mess they created as they are blocked and tapped together, spreading the glue on the nice finished surface. Click together or “Lock and Fold” style of engineered flooring has leapt to the forefront, and it’s hard to argue with the ease of installation.

Just like solid flooring, you may need a little “persuasion” to get the pieces to marry and lock. Using a tapping block and hammer, you tap the pieces into place. Start at the longest wall that is parallel to the direction of the layout, and put a few spare pieces of flooring scrap along the edges, thereby creating an expansion gap. It’s imperative that you get all of your flooring pieces squarely locked together, or the gaps will haunt the rest of the installation.

The main attractions with floating floors are easier installation, no glues or adhesives, and the ability to cover a subfloor that may be substandard, have many layers, or even covering asbestos. Because the floor rests on a cushioned pad, they are comfortable when standing for long periods. Some criticism is directed toward floating floors due to this same softer – some describe as “squishy” – feeling underfoot. One can create a more solid feeling floating floor by utilizing a better grade underlayment and using premium, thicker flooring, both of which will lend a more solid surface.

The most important consideration with a floating floor installation is to provide enough room at the edges for expansion. Since the floor is “locked” together as one piece, it needs to have room to swell or buckling will occur. Leave room at the edges and any solid or fixed objects the flooring intersects with. Quarter round or base molding will cover the gap, so you’ll still have a neat appearance.

Glue Down Hardwood Floors

For our purposes we’ll say you are installing an engineered floor over a concrete slab at grade and that all moisture problems have been addressed. Snap a straight line out about 10 or 11 plank widths, (figuring a 3 ¼ width plank, plus 3/8” for your expansion gap at the edge) from the longest parallel wall and start your installation.

Trowel your flooring adhesive back toward the wall and spread evenly according to manufacturer’s instructions. Tap your first board into place tightly against the chalk line and few pieces of scrap flooring which you’ve nailed or glued to the concrete at the edge of the chalkline. These scraps give you something to work against, and when you’ve completed this section, you’ll simply remove them. Work toward the wall, tapping each piece into place, always checking back to your earlier work, as boards like to wriggle free if no one is looking!

Be extremely careful with flooring glue, as it can get on everything. Clean up drips and blobs with a damp rag immediately – especially on the finish surface of your new flooring! Mineral spirits may work well here, but please test first on a scrap of the pre-finished material!

Once you’ve laid the flooring from your chalkline to the wall, now you can work from the other direction, from your chalkline toward the other wall. You may want to give the adhesive time to setup and give you a more solid surface to kneel on, (don’t forget soft, padded kneepads!) Remember when using a tapping block to be aware of the tongue and groove or snap-lock edge and be careful not to damage that, or to scuff the finish for that matter.

Nailed Hardwood Floors

Probably the most common, and certainly the oldest method of attaching flooring to the subfloor, nailing or stapling is a tried and true installation technique. Create a control line toward the middle of the room measuring out from the longest parallel wall, and snapping a chalkline. Then begin at the wall with you first piece to be nailed down – always adding that 3/8” expansion gap at the edge. Some folks like to “set” the edge board in place by popping a few finish nails at the wall edge (which will be covered by your base molding.)

Then, using a pneumatic nail gun, pop your holding nails into the tongue at a 45 degree angle, remembering to keep the nail back away from the tongue, which needs to be clear for fitting into the groove of the next board to fit. Fit the next board and tap into place with a block, and repeat the nailing. Make sure to keep checking your measurements out to your chalkline to insure that your installation is staying square and true. When installing hardwood floors, always check your progress against your measured chalkline, as the eye will detect any variances out of true.

Which Direction to Install

Think about the direction you want the boards to run in your new floor. Generally, we like to have floorboards lead us into a room, as it gives the illusion of more space. For compound areas made up of several rooms, it’s sometimes nice to change orientation at the threshold of the new room. Finally, for a really distinctive look, consider installing hardwood floors on a diagonal, or 45 degree angle. Yes, it involves perhaps 5 to 10 percent more waste, but it’s a smashing look that sets your home apart.

Look Before You Leap

Buy all your flooring at one supplier, and at one time, this gives you the best chance that your flooring will be consistent. That said, you should expect some pieces that you won’t want to use, and you need to identify them early and set them aside. Open up at least 3-4 bundles of your flooring and dry set it into place in the room. This way you can be sure to stagger lengths and color variations. This is called “racking”, and serious installers always rack their boards before they drive the first nail. Installing hardwood floors is as much about preparation as it is about installation!

Your Brand New Floor

If you’ve just installed a new, engineered floor, chances are that you’ve chosen a pre-finished product, meaning that the stain and varnish coating are pre-applied. But look carefully: Are there any gaps that you couldn’t get as tight as you’d like? What about around the edges where your quarter round or cove base abuts the flooring? Yes folks, we live in an imperfect world … that’s why there’s caulk! Ask at your retailer when purchasing your flooring about filler that is appropriate for your flooring, as each reacts differently to various finishes, you want to find a compatible filler that won’t create more mess and work. These fillers come in a variety of colors to match your finish (if unsure, choose a shade darker), and can be applied in fine beads with a caulk gun. Just like caulk, though, less is more, you can always add more.

Let’s say you installed an unfinished plank floor and notice gaps prior to the sanding and finishing phase. Good, that’s the best time for a filler here too. Select a water-based interior grade filler that will expand and contract with the natural movement of the wood, (ask at the flooring place, or local handymen.) Using a putty knife, squeegee the filler into cracks, voids, and seams. Don’t worry if the filler is considerably lighter than your floor, as you’ll be staining the entire surface, and the filler will match closely with your wooden flooring then. Once dry, sand, seal and finish.

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Let’s take a look at some of the situations where you might want to get a little extra help – or turn the job over completely to a pro.

Hardwood Floors Installed Over Cement Subfloor

If your cement subfloor has moisture issues, do you know how to test for trouble? Do you know the best way to seal the subfloor? Which sealers will work together with a flooring adhesive? Do you want – or need – to utilize a plywood subfloor over the cement? If you’re a city dweller, are you required or would it be appropriate to use sound dampening material in the installation? Are you comfortable using flooring adhesive, which is extremely messy, and needs close supervision during the installation?

These are some of the important questions to consider before diving right in yourself. You might want to get a consultation on your project before you decide which way to go. Contractors can give you an idea about the scope of the job, the estimated cost, and some of the potential problems. If you suspect that your installation may be problematic, and you don’t have a lot of experience, you might want to pay a little extra and “leave it to the pros!”

If You Suspect a Bad Subfloor

You’ll have a number of clues when your subfloor is bad, in the form of creaks, groans, soft or spongy spots, Perhaps there’s an associated water issue such as a leaky pipes or fixture. Or an older house where you may even see the floors sloping from one side of the room to the other. Maybe the room is built over an unimproved crawlspace – that’s a high probability floor damage culprit.

All of these situations most likely require some associated carpentry once the old floor is removed. Then you’ll be able to make a good visual and physical assessment of the subfloor. If you go further and remove that too due to obvious damage, then you’ll have a close-up inspection of the joists. A possible plan of attack here might be to remove the floor yourself to save some money. It can be done fairly easily (always be careful at the edges and around door jambs.) Although remember that you’ll need to cart all the old flooring away.

Let’s say you’ve removed your old wood floor, and – as you suspected, you’ve found a lousy old subfloor, that’s spongy, uneven, and out of level. Depending on your comfort level, you might be hiring a flooring consultant to take it over from here. We can’t stress enough that if your subfloor is below standard, and not solid, and level, your hardwood flooring will never look good on top of it. If it means you have to hire a pro to do some subfloor carpentry, you’ll be glad in the long run.

Intricate of Difficult Installations

Do you have several rooms being done at once? Can you afford to have those rooms out of service for an extended period of time while you do the work? Are there stairs, steps or multi-levels involved? Considering mixing woods for a grand effect, or utilizing some parquet elements, or inlaid elements? What about the sheer size of the project, is it something you can tackle in a few days, or is it bound to become “the winter of your discontent?” What about using traditional tongue and grooved boards in a nail down installation; do you have the proper tools, such as a pneumatic nail gun? And what about unfinished floors; are you comfortable sanding and finishing your floors?

Again, these situations lean in favor of hiring a flooring consultant to handle a bigger or more complex job. The finishing alone is a mind-bending task involving heavy belt sanders, and edge sanders, then cleaning, then applying several coats of your finish. Most good flooring contractors today feature dustless sanding equipment that’s attached to a huge vacuum device outside. The volume of dust removed and the relative ease of cleanup is well worth the extra dollars.

What to Ask When Hiring a Flooring Consultant

Before you hire anyone, do some homework. Go to a few flooring retailers and discuss the project you’re considering, and ask their advice. If it’s a smaller room, and you’re thinking about pre-finished click and fold flooring, they may tell you to go forth and conquer it on your own. But they’ll also be the first to warn you off a job that would put you in over your head.

Then ask them who they recommend, and why. Once you have a few names, call them and discuss the project, tell them the materials you’re considering, and any other details or concerns, such as allergic sensitivity, etc. A good contractor will want to come by and size up the job in person. Be sure to ask him the following questions:

• Has he ever installed this type of flooring before?
• Are there any special concerns with this type of flooring?
• Would he recommend this type of flooring, or does he have any alternate ideas? (Remember, this is an opportunity for you to listen to a pro in this field, and perhaps learn some other installation ideas and techniques – don’t gloss over this, but rather spend time talking through your ideas and his.
• Does he work alone or have a crew?
• Will he personally be on the jobsite, doing the work?
• Can he give you a solid start and finish date for the project?
• Does he guarantee his work?
• Does he have a portfolio of finished jobs that you can see?
• Can he provide you with 3 references from previous jobs? Get their numbers and call yourself.

Remember too, that an installer is a great resource at the end of the cycle, but consider utilizing a flooring consultant at the beginning of the cycle. Better flooring stores have designer/consultants on staff to help you wade through the thousands of choices. Bring pictures of your space, and ask for their ideas. Try not to be set in your ways, but open to new materials, designs, and techniques. You’ll probably see some ideas that you hadn’t even considered! If you do spend time with a design consultant, it’s really only fair to buy your material from that store. Remember too, that they can help you choose a quality installer who will do good work to continue to get their recommendations.

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Choosing the correct flooring for a home gym allows you to workout longer and feel more comfortable while ensuring the integrity of your joints, muscles, ligaments and tendons. Whether you’re lifting free weights, engaging in aerobics or doing a killer exercise program, you need to do so on the proper floor.

Basic Guidelines

First, you need to consider four questions when it comes to choosing flooring for a home gym. Answering these questions will allow you to determine which type of floor is right for you.

Type of Workout

If you’re going to be doing a high impact workout, then you’re going to need a high impact floor that offers substantial absorption of energy and total stability. That type of workout demands a full rubber gym floor. If you’re using machines such as a treadmill, bike and elliptical, the floor is still important but obviously the workout machines will be taking more of the abuse than the floor. In this case in order to protect the floor, you’ll want a substantial rubber or foam mat between the machine and floorboards.

Subfloor

If your home gym has a wood floor, your covering can usually be a bit thinner than if it’s on something less forgiving than concrete. Wood subfloors give a bit, which is less stressful on your body. But concrete is about as firm and unresponsive as can be.

Style and Color

The simpler the floor when it comes to color, the cheaper it will be. Basic black or blue are less expensive than something that has a design in it or a special logo. If you’re trying to match your home décor, you may end up paying more for a gym floor than if you’re simply attempting to create a safe place where you may workout safely and comfortably.

Price

The thicker the floor, the more expensive it will be. A standard thickness that works well for most home gyms is 3/8”. However, if you need ¾” for more padding, it’s available and not that much more expensive.

The other thing to be mindful of when it comes to cost is that unique colors and floors with logos and artwork will cost more. If you’re on a budget, then try to get the best floor possible for the amount of cash you have to spend.

Types of Gym Floors

There are three basic types of gym floors. These range in price, with the cheapest being rubber mats and the most expensive rolled rubber. When it comes to price, interlocking tiles fall in between.

Rubber Mats

You’ll find rubber mats that range in thickness as they are available in  ½-inch, 3/8-inch and ¾-inch thicknesses. These are very durable and the least expensive of your choices. Generally they are produced in a few basic colors, including black, blue and tan.

If you’re using very heavy free weights, which can put a lot of stress on your limbs, then use a mat that’s at least 3/8-inch thick. For placement under machines, ½-inch mats are fine.

One thing to keep in mind is that mats that are made of 100% recycled rubber can give off a strong, cloying odor that can be unpleasant. If your home gym is in an enclosed area that lacks ventilation, you’ll want to stay away from recycled rubber. However, this type of mat would be fine in a gym that’s set in an area that has good airflow.

Interlocking Tiles

Interlocking tiles are easy to install and are flexible enough to be picked up and moved quickly. These tiles, which usually come on 3/8-inch or ½-inch thicknesses, wear well, and when one gets damaged, they are easy to replace. You may purchase these in solid black or with a color fleck. The tiles that offer a little bit of color hide dirt better, making them a bit easier to maintain. Interlocking tiles are generally stable, absorb impacts well and are versatile as the workout area can be reconfigured whenever necessary.

Rolled Rubber

If you’re looking for variety in terms of floor thickness, then rolled rubber is a good choice. You’ll find this gym floor comes in 1/8-inch, ¼-inch, 5/16-inch, 3/8-inch and ½-inch thicknesses. Rolled rubber, which is good for covering large areas, is available in 70-foot or 80-foot sheets that are four-feet wide.

This type of flooring is easy to cut and install. It’s simple to create a seamless effect between rolls, and if a piece of flooring is damaged, it can be cut out and replaced. You can cover a large area quickly with rolled rubber. Although like the other home gym floors it does not need to be glued down, it is recommended that an adhesive be used on thinner floors to prevent tearing.

Safety is Key

Flooring for a home gym needs to be geared towards ensuring a safe workout that puts the right types of stress on the body. A good gym floor can protect your body from injury and wear and tear. Shop around, test out various coverings and find the best gym flooring for your workout.

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This is where carpet underlay comes into play.

But what is carpet underlay exactly? Underlay is commonly referred to as “padding,” which is a pretty fitting term, as that is basically what it is. Without it, your floors would be flat, hard and altogether uncomfortable, and on top of that – vulnerable to wear and tear. But with underlay, suddenly that decorative carpet feels like a dream on your feet and is also quite durable. In fact, many have said a good underlay will increase the life of your carpet twofold.

Moreover, a lot of people don’t realize that your carpet underlay will also affect your utility bills. Underlay is a form of insinuation and can help keep you warm during the colder months! Not only do carpet underlays hold in warmth, but they can absorb sound too. Have neighbors a floor below you? You can use underlay (sometimes with a floorboard too) to keep the sound in your room and not contribute to noise pollution in the neighborhood. In addition to keeping the sound inside the room, it can also keep the room itself quieter. Nifty, huh?

But that’s not all! If you’re like most people, you probably loathe maintaining your floors. Vacuuming, etc, can be a real pain. But the better your carpet underlay is, the cleaner your carpet will be! This is because the underlay lifts the carpet up and prevents dirt from embedding too deeply into it. As well, carpet underlay essentially helps the carpet “breathe,” allowing for more effective vacuuming.

If you’re still not convinced that you ought to spend the extra bucks on quality underlay, consider this. Underlay improves the look of your carpet. Without an underlay, carpet will start to age very vast and get matted down and almost sink into the floor. With an underlay, this is not the case – carpet will look newer for a longer period of time and be able to maintain its original form due to cushioning.

So underlay is a detail you cannot afford to neglect. And in order to pick out the best carpet underlay for your home, it’s a good idea to get to know what your options are.

Typically, when your carpet is installed, it will be installed with underlay or cushioning. In other words, you buy the top layer of carpet in addition to the bottom layer. But you can buy the underlay separately and in order to do this properly, you have to understand the manufacturer jargon.

It may be tempting to save some money and buy discounted underlay over the web, but for such an important buy, it really suits your interests to shop just as carefully for underlay as you would for a color scheme or thread count for your surface carpet. In other words, budget for the underlay and buy what you can afford – not what is the cheapest. It will be worth it in the long run.

Now, you might run into a dilemma with carpet underlay. Why not just keep your old underlay when installing a new carpet? It’s advisable you don’t do this, as underlay deteriorates over time and it’s best to replace it with new, hardier underlay for your new carpet (at least if you want that carpet to have a long, healthy life).

Okay, so you’ve got all the benefits of carpet underlay down. Where do you go from there? There are three kinds of padding: foam, fiber, and rubber. And each of these kinds comes in many varieties as well. Depending on what you will use your newly-carpeted room for and your budget, you will be able to pick out the right underlay for your carpet. Some underlays are thicker than others. And for bedrooms, thin padding might be alright. However, for areas where there is a lot of traffic, like the living room, it’s a good idea to go with stronger, thicker underlay.

The world of carpet padding is probably a lot more complicated than you thought! But don’t worry. As long as you know all the pros to good underlay and are familiar with the vocabulary, too, you will be well-equipped to shop around for it. Remember, however, that you’ll want to get the underlay and carpet professionally installed. Just as you’d pick out the carpet so carefully, you’ll want to make sure that it is put in place by trained and skilled experts.

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Many people approach the bedroom floor covering with one question: what color should the carpet be. Carpet is the standard floor covering in a bedroom and while there is nothing wrong with carpet, it is certainly not the only thing you can put on the bedroom floor. Hardwood flooring is an excellent choice for the bedroom and always adds natural warmth to the room. The same thing can be said for laminate wood floorings, which give you a greater choice of options in colors and design patterns than hardwood flooring. Ceramic tile and stone, such as marble, are also great choices for your bedroom floor and give you many options to choose from, depending on your style.

What to considered when deciding on a finish floor covering in the bedroom?

First, what is the purpose or end use of the bedroom? Is this the master bedroom, a teenager’s bedroom, a child’s bedroom or a nursery? Or is this is a guest bedroom? Each of these rooms will take on a different feel and the flooring should set the mood for the entire room. Second, what is the decorating scheme for the room? Is it all painted drywall, or is there textured wallpaper involved? Perhaps you’ve run bead board as a wainscoting on the walls or some other wood pattern. All of these things need to be considered when choosing the flooring in your bedrooms because you need to make sure that the flooring you select will blend with or properly accent the rest of the rooms decorating scheme.

For example, a master bedroom suite can be a combination of a sanctuary where you hide away from the world as well as the place you fall asleep. The flooring should be comfortable but not boring. If you are using carpet here, then you may want to consider a carpet with a design pattern in the weave rather than just a plain pile carpet. Something like that gives your flooring a personal touch and says that you were involved in the selection process. If you were to use a pre-finished wood or laminate floor, choose a lighter color that adds life to the room but will still allow you to use accent colors on the walls and in the fabrics.

Flooring options for the bedroom of a young person, or even a teenager, should take into consideration how easy it will be to clean up. Anyone who has raised kids knows that the little ones love to scatter their toys (and clothes) all over the floor and nothing is more frustrating than vacuuming up a handful of your child’s favorite small toys because you couldn’t see them buried in the plush pile carpet. This type of bedroom floor lends itself to hardwood flooring or laminate flooring very well because wood makes any room warm and beautiful but it is practical as well. Either hardwood or laminate give you many selections to choose from in colors and pattern style and they make cleanup a breeze with a broom or dust mop. Still think you need some carpet in the middle of the floor for the kids to play on? Drop an attractive area carpet down on the floor. Pick something with a tight weave that will add warmth for them while lying down but not allow small toys to hide in it when it comes time for cleaning.

Finishing the floor of a nursery takes into consideration some of the same things just discussed for the kids room: it should be attractive and easy to cleanup. However, a nursery is a room where cleanup can take on a new meaning and colors selected are usually very bright; just the opposite of what you would choose for a child or older person.

Let’s consider the cleaning requirements for a nursery floor. Let your imagination run wild as to what might end up on the floor and then double it! The nursery is a combination bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen. It is also a social center when relatives come over to visit your new bundle of joy so it will get all of the foot traffic in one room that a normal house receives. Ceramic tile will give you the greatest advantage in this room by providing a durable surface for all of the traffic as well as offering one of the easiest cleaning surfaces of all finished floor coverings. As far as being an attractive flooring option for the bedroom, ceramic tile comes in so many sizes, shapes and colors that the decorating possibilities are almost endless.

The last bedroom to consider is the guest bedroom. This bedroom does not have to please a particular person because you never know who will be in it but it should follow the decorating scheme of the rest of the home. While this room should be attractive and inviting, since your guests will be staying there, it will also be the room that will be the easiest to clean because of its limited use; therefore, maintenance is not going to be a primary consideration for the flooring in this room. Any of the flooring choices available will work here but carpet is a flooring option for the bedroom that gives you a wide range of budget options while still offering a floor finish that is appealing to most of your guests. A thick, plush carpet always feels good between your toes and your guests will appreciate the fact that you thought enough of them to put it down.

The bedroom floor should be given as much consideration as any other floor in the house when it comes to decorating. Make sure your choice for the floor is practical in terms of maintenance, beautiful to look at, and offers the greatest comfort to your family and guests.

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But how do you go about selecting unfinished solid flooring? Let’s take a look at some of the considerations you need to know before you start on your flooring project.

Solid or Engineered Flooring

Solid flooring is exactly as it sounds; a single board, milled from a tree. It will reflect all the knots, grain variations, and color differences inherent in that tree, especially toward the edge cuts. The center cuts, or heartwood, will offer the straightest grain and fewest anomalies. As the tree is milled, these boards are separated into various grades that reflect their character, and we’ll look at grading lumber shortly.

The most common thickness of unfinished solid flooring is ¾”, which gives you plenty of depth to sand and finish, not only initially, but several times over the life of the floor, which could easily span a century. This is a very important factor to consider if you plan on owning your home for a long time. Solid flooring can also come in other thicknesses, starting as thin as 5/16”, going up to 3/8” and ½”. Some of the exotic imports from Asia and Europe are these thinner thicknesses – not necessarily bad – but a consideration for the long run. Remember: Thicker board/longer lifespan.

Solid flooring is best installed at above-grade floors, and nailed into wooden subfloors, it is not recommended for below-grade, or basement, applications. A solid and level subfloor with a nailed solid floor is a solid feeling, great looking floor.

Engineered flooring is a relatively recent innovation, but is igniting a new wave of do-it-yourselfers (DIYs) who like the easier installation and the pre-finished surface. Engineered flooring is constructed on a plywood substrate, so it’s less prone to the vicissitudes of wood, such as warping, checking or buckling.

Secondly it uses a veneer of hardwood as the top layer which is usually pre-finished thus saving time and work. Do pay attention to thickness of this top layer, the “wear layer” by inspecting the flooring from the ends. Remember that you may need to refinish your new floor in time, and you may want to opt for a thicker (and more expensive” flooring that features a ticker top veneer.

Thirdly and perhaps most appealing is that engineered floors are engineered to fit and “snap” together with a minimum of “persuasion.” In fact, the newest trend is the Lock and Fold joining method, where the two boards offer locking male/female edges that lock into place without the usually blocking and tapping into place more common with older styles.

Ok, you’ve looked, you’ve learned, you’ve seen the samples, and decided on selecting unfinished solid flooring. Good for you! Now, let’s get started.

Various Lengths, Various Widths

There is no standard length or width in solid flooring, but there are some popular sizes. For example, a traditional width is 2 ¼”, and you see this everywhere in softwoods like Douglas fir, and hardwoods, like red oak and maple. But you can also get solid flooring in widths all the way up to 18-20 inches – especially from a custom mill – but be warned that solid boards this wide often display more movement and warping tendencies than skinner boards.

Wide plank floors are making a huge comeback right now, floorboards of 6” to 12”, and they have a warm, early American or rustic look, depending on the wood, the grain, and the installation. For example, you can top nail these floors using reproduction forged nails for a super authentic look, or peg the floor, where a hole is drilled and a different species peg is inserted prior to finishing, mimicking earlier pegged floors. Even though pegging is for show only, it’s a beautiful recreation of early craftsmanship.

At a lumberyard, you can select boards all in the 84” range, but you must remember to stagger the ends, to avoid and “end-seam” that runs laterally across the floor, which is both unsightly and less stable, than measured or random length staggering – keeping end seams at least 6 inches apart.

More likely, you’ll buy a bundle of wood, and it will be made up of both longs and shorts, sometimes as short as 12”. This is fine too, and more or less insures that you’ll have a nice, random staggering on lengths as you lay out your new floor. The imported and exotice woods tend to be bundled in shorter lengths, presumably for shipping purposes.

Making the Grade

While pre-finished wooden flooring is seldom graded, you’ll get some variations in each bundle, but by and large, a premium product. The exceptions being cabin grade or tavern grade, which appear very much as they sound; rustic, rough, and not all select grade. However, the price can be well worth it for less formal applications, like, say cabins or taverns!

Selecting unfinished solid flooring is all about the grade, though, so it pays to know what your are buying. The Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association (NOFMA) has established certification and grading protocols for unfinished flooring that are detailed on their website as follows:

Clear
Select
Number 1. Common
Number 2. Common

The primary differentiator between the grades is the degree to which natural characteristics, such as knots and mineral streaks, or manufacturing marks, such as sticker stain, are allowed. The prominence and frequency of these characters increases from NOFMA Clear to NOFMA No. 2 Common.

For example, “NOFMA Clear” is mostly uniform in appearance, has a limited number of character marks, and is mostly heartwood. “Select” also has a uniform appearance, but this grade contains more of the natural characters such as knots and all natural color variations associated with heartwood and sapwood. The common grades will contain even more natural characters, as well as manufacturing marks.

Be sure to see samples of these grades at the lumberyard or store, and also pictures of finished floors to make an informed decision. Solid wooden floors can last a lifetime, so take few extra minutes in the selection process.

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First, decide whether you would like to purchase woven or tufted carpet. Tufted carpet is the most common, and is made of rows of machine-punched yarn held together with glue and a backing. Tufted carpets will generally last seven years (some thicker piles and better fibers may last longer depending on daily traffic). Woven carpet is actually made on a loom and is considerably more expensive than tufted carpet. It will last twenty to thirty years, so woven carpet can be considered a long-term investment.

Next, consider the type of pile that suits your needs. Some carpet fibers are left intact to form loops (loop pile), some are sheared to make cut pile, and some carpets are made with a combination of cut and loop pile. Loop pile is thought to be slightly more durable than cut pile because the whole fiber is left intact and will stand up better to wear. Seeing and touching different carpets and pile types will help you better understand your preferences, so examine carpets with all three pile types.

Pile types also differ in height and density, so be sure to acknowledge those differences as well. Shorter pile (like berber) will be very easy to care for, while thicker, taller pile may feel better to the toes but will trap more dirt and may become crushed by a large volume of traffic. For example, plush pile is cut to a level height, is comfortable underfoot, and is best used as a bedroom floor covering because it crushes easily; plush pile would not look as nice in a high traffic hallway. Berber is a loop pile carpet that is very short, less comfortable underfoot, and is a good choice for staircases or family rooms because it is very durable; it does not crush because the pile is short.

Another important component of carpet that will determine longevity, care, and wear, is fiber type. Pile can be made up of synthetic or natural fibers, or a blend of the two. The most common carpet fiber is nylon, which is stain resistant, durable, and comes in many colors. It is one of the more expensive synthetic fibers available. Other common fiber types are wool and polyester. Wool is a natural fiber that is strong and naturally flame retardant and stain resistant. Most synthetic fibers are meant to imitate wool carpet which is very appealing to the touch. When first installed, wool carpet will shed a bit. Polyester has a wool-like appearance and is mainly used in cut pile carpets. It is soft and affordable, but it will mat down easily so it may have a shorter life span than wool or nylon. Other fiber types are available such as jute, sisal, and linen, but they are more expensive and easily damaged by sunlight and liquids.

When you shop for your carpet, take measurements of your room so that you can have an idea of how much carpet you will need. Many carpet stores will use your measurements to help figure out exactly how much carpet to order. Keep in mind that prices are often set per square yard, so divide the price per yard by nine to get the price per square foot. Be prepared to order new padding to go with your new carpet; good padding is essential so even if you have to go a step lower in carpet quality, choose a high quality pad. Ask if your chosen carpet will seam well (a good carpet seam will be inconspicuous). Almost every carpeted room will have a seam, and some carpets seam better than others, so this factor is important. Installation of wall-to-wall carpeting is quite tricky, so leave the installation up to professionals.

Before you commit to purchasing carpet from a certain store, browse other shops to compare prices and service. Take home carpet samples to compare them with the color palette of your room. Take time when buying carpet to select the proper color, pile, and fiber type. A good carpet will last 7+ years, so make sure to purchase a carpet that you will like even a few years into the future!

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