Background of the Poinsettia

The poinsettia is basically a native plant of Mexico, where it grows wild. Joel Robert Poinsett, the amateur botanist and first ambassador to Mexico, first introduced it in the US in 1825. The story goes that he brought some cuttings to his Greenwood plantation, in South Carolina. Ever since, this plant has become a household name all over the country.

There have been a few stories attached to this plant. According to a legend, a small girl called Pepita did not have a gift to present baby Jesus, so she collected a handful of weeds on her way to church. As she neared the church, she noticed that the weeds had bloomed miraculously into vibrantly colored flowers, which came to be known as Flowers of the Holy Night or Flores de Noche Buena.

The various names of the Poinsettia

The Aztec name for the plant was Cuetlaxochitl. They made a reddish purple dye from the bracts. The poinsettia is known as the Crown of the Andes in Chile and Peru. The plant is also referred to as the Flame Leaf Flower. It is a perennial flowering shrub that can grow up to ten feet in height.

The Poinsettia – Botanically speaking

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is also called Mexican Flame Leaf. It is an open, partially deciduous shrub, erect and spreading, and generally sparingly branched. The leaves are lobed or toothed, and are ovate to lance-shaped. These are medium to deep green in color, and 15 cm long.

The colors of the Poinsettia range from white to pink, to the traditional red. There are other color variants, like shades of yellow and peach, in between. The new varieties come in marbled, wrinkled and even flecked bracts. Grown from tiny plantings, they are grown in all fifty states, although most originate from the Paul Ecke Ranch in California.

Is the Poinsettia poisonous?

It is a mistaken notion held by many that the poinsettia is a poisonous plant. But, according to scientific tests conducted by the Ohio State University, the plant is non-toxic to both humans and animals. As a matter of fact, according to studies conducted by the Carnegie Mellon University and Children’s Hospital in Pittsburgh, out of the 22,793 reported exposures, there was no significant toxicity found. Hence, even pet owners need not ban the poinsettia. However, to avoid it being accidentally eaten, it is advisable to keep the plant out of reach of small children and pets.  Like all ornamental plants, the poinsettia is not edible, and can certainly cause discomfort if ingested.

Price of a Poinsettia

Poinsettias are priced from under $10 to more than $100, based on the variety, size, shape, decorative trim and quality. When buying a poinsettia, make sure the bracts are thoroughly colored and expanded, the stems are sturdy, there are no signs of wilting, and it has plentiful green foliage.

Care

Poinsettias need indirect sunlight, room temperature, and light to average soil moisture. Excessive temperatures and over watering are the most common threats to the plant. Simply prevent soggy soil, excessive heat, or cold drafts, for a healthy plant. Thus, with a little care, your poinsettias can last through Christmas and even after that. These beautiful make popular gifts, and are a favorite decorative item.

How to take care of the Poinsettia in different seasons

In the winter, the poinsettia bears terminal cymes, about 30 cm across, and green colored cyathia encircled by leaf-like, large bright red bracts. Some varieties have white or cream involucra. Although these bright red bracts are usually mistaken for flowers, in fact they are the small yellow buds in the center.

You can grow Poinsettias in the spring by sowing seeds, or in the early spring by division, or use basal cuttings either in early summer or spring. To prevent bleeding, you can dip the cut surfaces in charcoal or lukewarm water.

Poinsettias need a soil mix of 3 parts loam-based potting compost and one part grit. It likes a well-ventilated position and full light. When in growth, water it sparingly and fertilize it with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every month. Keep it dry during winter.

Poinsettias are short-day plants and need extra care to have them bloom for Christmas. Put the plants in a place where night temperatures are around 15 degrees Celsius (60 F), and keep them away from artificial light at night.

To initiate flowering, poinsettias need 12-14 hours of complete darkness daily for a minimum of two months. You can control the day length by putting the plant in a dark area at around 5 pm and removing it at 8 am. This needs to be done for 11 weeks. Start in mid autumn for a good bloom in Christmas. Plus, make sure to water them adequately, control night temperatures, and fertilize them to get a healthy color display for the holidays.

After the plant flowers, to get the brightest bract color, make sure to keep the compost moist and place it in a brightly lit room. The plants tend to lose color and start shedding leaves and bracts if they get very cold. Therefore, make sure they are well covered when you buy them in the flowering season.

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How Often Should you Water Your Plants

Water plants no more and no less than they need it. Too much TLC can kill plants quicker than utter neglect. Various houseplants under one roof will have equally varied watering requirements.

This diversity is determined by many factors, so there’s no way to generalize an answer to: “How often should I water my plants?” Wilting leaves are a tell-tale sign of dehydration. These and other physical changes are cause for quick reaction. Water immediately or your plants will suffer damage or death.

Conversely, black, mushy spots or mold are signs of over-watering. Plants should be given whatever they can soak up in a single watering. They will not do well with their feet constantly wet. Pour off extra water, and consider if it is you or the soil that’s causing the excess.

Potting Medium Types

Plants should never dry out completely, but constant saturation is not good for them either. Sometimes this balance measures the quality of potting medium rather than the owner’s green thumb. Whatever your plants are in should be determined by their type and your climate. Ultimately, make sure the soil is appropriate to the plant species.

Orchids require fine or course mulch-like bark. African violets and cactuses need different potting medium as well. Even hydroponics gel, another type of non-soil potting medium, can be used. Regardless, horticulturists say all mature plants benefit from only the top two inches of potting medium becoming dehydrated. Potting soil, in general, should act like a holding sponge. In fact, plants can be grown in sponges (although I don’t recommend it.)

A good multi-purpose potting mix will have a mixture of dirt and organic matter. Some soils sold at stores contain no dirt at all! It should be very dark in color and have no foul smell. It should also pass the hand-squeeze test. Squeeze a handful of the dirt you intend to use. It should retain most of its shape momentarily but crumble if poked. Too much of any one component, like sand, clay, or peat, will deprive your plants of the proper amount of water, nutrients or aeration.

Heat and Humidity

Humidity requirements vary between species and are directly affected by the medium houseplants are potted in. Tropical houseplants like high humidity. Their soil should retain more water but must mimic the spongy rainforest floor. A spray bottle can help by allowing you to hydrate the foliage of your tropical plant. You can also set the entire potted plant in a container that has a layer of rocks and water at the bottom of it. The actual plant will not be touching the pooled water, but it will benefit as the water evaporates.

Many common varieties do well in low humidity. The latter are ordinarily seen in supermarkets because they don’t need misting or special treatment. You can basically place them in a room that has a window, water them when the topsoil is dry, and forget about them. These are the plants that utilize multi-purpose potting soil. To maintain proper aeration and drainage, this type of soil should be changed annually.

No matter what the humidity requirements are, trouble comes when temperatures drop below what is tolerated by the plants. Make sure your thermostat is set no lower than 65 degrees to support plant growth. This doesn’t mean you should keep your house a constant temperature either. On the contrary, when your thermometer sees some action, plants are tricked into thinking they’re back in the wild. Many species will not bloom without a fluctuation in temperature.

Leaf Shapes and Density

A larger surface area promotes rapid transpiration, while lower density means less material in which water can be stored. Think about dehydrating fruits and vegetables in the fall. Thicker chunks take longer to dry. This is the same with your houseplants, so be especially attentive to the hydration needs of thin, elongated foliage.

If you think your plants are drying too quickly, still water them as frequently as they need it. Thicker potting soil might help retain water more. Also consider the placement of the plant in your house. A plant with thin, long leaves might dry out quickly if placed near a fan or in direct window sunlight.

Plants bogged down with too much water should be watered less frequently and, perhaps, rearranged. Thicker, shorter leaves tend to do well in direct light and won’t be adversely affected by air being blown on them. If you find the right location for each plant, you might just come close to establishing that all-too-elusive watering schedule.

Vacation Watering

There are a multitude of systems on the market that offer to water your houseplants while you’re away for an extended period of time. If you can’t entrust your babies to a well-respected neighbor, a houseplant watering system might be the answer. You can simulate them by filling a plastic container with water, replacing its lid, and running wicking material down from the container and into the soil.

Another way of hydrating your plants while you’re on the road is to line cake pans or deep cookie sheets with quilters batting. Pour water until it pools around the batting. Set the potted plant (without its drain plate) on the batting in the pan. Experiment with these techniques before you leave to make sure they are appropriate for your plants and situation.

Hydration crystals can be sprinkled on plants before you water them. The crystals soak up water and expand. As the plant dries, water in the crystals releases. Potting mediums — other than regular soil – tend to do well with the crystals. Expect to change your potting soil when you return as the crystals can promote mold growth and prevent soil from draining properly.

Be attentive to the watering needs of each plant. Just as you don’t let your gas tank dry up before adding to it, don’t let your plants dry out all the way before watering them. On that same note, it doesn’t make sense to keep adding more gas to a tank that’s already topped off. If a plant is standing in water or hydrated clear to the top layer of soil, it doesn’t need any more liquid.

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Houseplants are not tricky to keep healthy, but it is easy to love them too much. Three basic practices will keep your plants happy and healthy. First, establish a flexible pattern for watering and feeding them. Second, apply smart potting and repotting techniques. Third, make sure they have appropriate light and warmth fluctuation.

Watering and Feeding

Use plant-specific fertilizer to feed your plants regularly, according to the directions on the container. Feeding your plants is a regimented and necessary part of successful plant rearing. Fortunately, you generally only need to apply plant food once every four to eight weeks. Most houseplants respond well to an all-purpose nutrient mix, like Miracle Grow or plant food spikes. African violets, orchids and other specialty plants require a different balance of these nutrients, so it’s a good idea to buy them their own vittles.

Watering is something all houseplants require. Establish a flexible pattern of watering when the plants need it. You can’t schedule in fill-ups at the gas station for your car. Likewise, be attentive to when your plants actually need watering. Telltale signs that plants are thirsty include leaves drooping or discolored and crumbling, dry soil. Plants don’t like their feet wet and can develop mold if they aren’t aloud to thoroughly drain.

Here’s the green rule of thumb for watering: When the top inch or two of the plant is dry, it needs a drink. Give it as much water as it the soil can soak up. Even for tropical plants that need more humidity, don’t over-water them. Instead, put an inch of gravel or pebbles in a cake pan-like container. Cover the rocks with water, and set the whole potted plant in the pan. This will ensure that humidity-loving plants get enough.

Potting or Repotting

How well a plant utilizes the water it receives is determined, in large part, by how it is potted. Choose a container that is big enough to hold all the roots plus one season’s growth. (One exception is orchids, which must feel squished and be allowed to creep their roots out of the pots.) Cover the hole in the bottom of the pot with broken pieces of pottery or large pieces of mulch. This is key to proper drainage.

Invest in a quality potting soil mix. Not only will it retain the proper amount of moisture, but better potting soil will be free of pests, molds and disease. While most plants thrive in similar soil, specialty plants require different potting medium.

Orchid types may need fine or coarse orchid mix. African violets, aloe and other cacti like specific aeration and drainage. In fact, some commercial soils don’t have any real dirt in them anyway. Hydroponics grow gel is also used in some instances. Just remember: potting soil is not one-size-fits-all.

Lighting Requirements

Likewise, not all plants require the same amount of light. Indirect light sources are fine for most plants. Bright window light can become too strong for some plants and actually burn the leaves. Too little light will stunt plant growth or cause them to become spindly as they reach toward a light source.

If you’ve noticed a plant is struggling, and you’ve ruled out watering, feeding and potting issues, try changing the intensity of light that it receives. Research the plant as species have different requirements. Some species, such as orchids and ti trees, develop deep, dark green leaves when they don’t receive enough light. Their leaves can turn yellow or brown if scorched in direct window light. Other plants, such as philodendron, will exhibit opposite reactions. Their leaves will yellow or blanch out in shade, and turn a beautiful forest green in the perfect light.

Dusting your plants gently a couple of times each season. They will appear more beautiful and be able to photosynthesize more efficiently. Also beware where you place plants. Resist the urge to increase small plants’ visibility if it sacrifices their ability to get sufficient light. Large plants can create a sort of canopy that steals light and air from smaller specimens.

Fluctuate Temperatures

No matter what size your plants are, they cannot get too cold or too hot. Keeping houseplants warm, between 65 and 85 degrees, is paramount. Plants that are too hot can become dehydrated, whereas plants that are too cold will not develop.

Houseplants like the same warmth humans do. Of course, there are specialty varieties with specific requirements. Seedlings prefer warmer soil as well. In general, though, houseplants will appreciate the same temperature their keepers do.

Plants are natural creatures, and all houseplants have some cousin growing naturally somewhere. In nature, temperatures fluctuate from day to night. Consequently, many houseplants will not rebloom unless they experience similar temperature changes. A difference of about 15 degrees is standard. When growing in the wild, the air cools off at night. Fortunately, houseplants don’t have to be in lower degrees at a certain time of day. Rather, they simply need one large block of time cooler than the other. For practicality, set your thermostat at around 15 to 20 degrees cooler when you leave for work in the mornings. Even though light from your windows will heat the house some, plants will respond to this cooling off period.

Caring for houseplants is fairly uncomplicated – although it may seem otherwise. Water them enough but never too much. Give them soil and light appropriate to their needs. Feed them once in a while, and simulate a natural atmosphere with humidity and temperature control. Once your pattern is set, your plants will require very little attention from you. Too much fussing over them will be counterproductive. After all, did you acquire the houseplants because you have too much time on your hands? No way. Enjoy the tranquil beauty plants add to your home by loving them from afar.

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There are a number of simple tips that can be considered, to enjoy a beautiful garden that is devoid of pests and rodents. The options given below are not only effective, but also inexpensive. Some of them are given below:

• Garlic: This magical herb keeps garden pests like aphids away. Crush garlic cloves to create a spray and additionally you can also plant sprouting garlic as a repellent. This natural repellent is very effective and inexpensive too. The magic potion can be put together in the kitchen. Other stinky plants that can keep these bugs away are onions, chives and scallions. The pungent smell of these plants keeps the pests and rodents away, naturally.
• Fennel: This wonderful solution attracts the beautiful ladybugs. Ladybugs are averse to spider mites and aphids and they love plants, animals and people too! They are not only inexpensive, but more effective too. Other effective herbs that attract ladybugs are dill, cilantro, angelica and parsley. The herbs and garden plants such as these, not only attract the existent pests, but also help to get rid of them once and for all.
• Praying Mantis: This is a very hardworking and useful insect that suffers greatly from hunger pangs and enjoys a dinner or lunch of aphids, fruits, flies, grasshoppers, moths, crickets and houseflies. But, he tends to gobble up beneficial insects like lacewings and hover flies too. Nevertheless, one thing is for sure, he will make sure that the garden is free from insects. If you are interested in bringing him home, you can buy cases of praying mantis eggs that are available in pest control shops. This garden friend is the best option for enhancing the appearance of the garden.
• Organic Sprays: Is adding to the insects in your garden not your idea of keeping some at bay? Then there are other interesting organic ways like the neem or Pyrethrum. You can also try out the sticky traps that are available in the pest control stores. The traps take up little space, but are effective in controlling the presence of rodents and insects in the garden.

A very efficient way to repel pests and help your garden grow is to maintain proper soil fertility. Try proper waste handling methods and good compost methods in the very beginning. Kitchen waste need not be thrown away anymore. You can identify the compost that is useful and will compliment the growth of the plants in the kitchen or terrace garden. Always try to maintain a bio-diversity in your garden, by planting a diverse ecosystem of native species.

Other effective ways for driving those irritating bugs out of your garden are spraying a homemade mixture of ammonia and water. While on one hand ammonia kills the bugs it also provides essential nitrogen to the soil. The mixture is beneficial to the plant and soil and is handy to keep in the shed or on the garden shelf.

If you are frustrated by the attack of snails, just feed them with beer. Put a small quantity of beer in a shallow container and place it where you find them the most. The funny thing is they get in easily, but they can’t crawl out. This makes it easy for you to get rid of them once and for all. The home remedy of beer for trapping snails is fast catching up and many garden enthusiasts are adopting it.

For those worms on your cabbage leaves, just sprinkle some self-rising flour on the leaves. Take a small paper bag, pour some flour and roll up the top. Make a few holes at the bottom of the bag and start sprinkling. The ideal time is early in the morning, before the sun rises because that’s when the bugs are most active. The bugs will eat the flour and as the sun comes out, they explode. This gets rid of them and ensures a pest free garden.

Another ideal bug catcher is the potato. Take a potato, slice it and poke a skewer through each slice. Bury it a couple of inches deep in the soil. Bury each slice about a foot apart, near the root crops and pull the potatoes out after a couple of weeks. You will see all kinds of nasty bugs sticking onto the slices. They are attracted to the potato, but cannot break free later. This method enables you to identify and do away with the pests and insects.

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Your prized vegetation was domesticated from regions of the world that are consistently bright, warm and humid. It’s important for you to simulate this environment as much as possible in the microclimate you create in your own home.

Temperature

Set your thermostat on a fluctuating schedule. Allow for half the day to be a cooler period than the other. If you work, you’ll probably prefer keeping the temperature low while you’re gone. This will help you save on your energy bill too. It is more natural, however, for plants to be in warmer temperatures when the sun is shining. Nevertheless, they will respond well to a consistent cycle of warmer and cooler air.

The temperature fluctuation doesn’t have to be much, but without it plants won’t thrive and probably won’t bloom. Their natural habitat has a day and night cycle, daily warm periods and cool periods that correspond with the natural patterns of the sun. They are programmed by genetics to expect these temperature changes, so you should do your best to accommodate them.

Plants will tolerate an average range from 65 degrees to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, although they prefer the higher median. Many plants will survive if kept in lower degrees for extended periods of time, but they probably will not thrive. Many species of large tropical house plants originate from climates that experience cold periods outside the average ideal temperature range.

Keep in mind, however, that in the wild these plants usually go into an unattractive dormant state during extreme temperature annually. Simulating dormancy with a cold period for your plants isn’t ideal because of their unattractive appearance during that time.

Light

Plants must also receive a natural amount of the right kind of light waves. If they don’t get enough light, they will grow very slowly and probably not rebloom. They will also look weak and straggly, and their stems will be stretched but not strong.

Set up your house with garden lights, and it will appear larger and more inviting. These, however, are only byproducts as a beautiful array of houseplants will thrive under such lighting. You can choose from standard florescent light bulbs or high intensity discharge bulbs.

Your choice is dictated by the type of plant. Research your specific species, and find out if it prefers low, medium, or full (high) light. Remember that window sunlight might fulfill lighting requirements for one side of the plant. You can rotate the plant every week to keep it from growing lopsided, but it’s still being starved of the full light it needs.

Florescent lights are sufficient for most standard houseplants. Warm or cool white bulbs are just as good as “plant growth” bulbs, but they are much less expensive. Larger tropical plants appreciate high-intensity discharge (HID) lights that have brighter wattage. Cheap, inefficient bulbs tend to give off more heat than light.

Humidity

Large tropical houseplants need humidity as much as warm temperatures and lots of light. No matter what your climate, they will appreciate a spritz now and then. Use a spray bottle to mist clean water directly on foliage weekly or as needed.

As a monthly treatment for sunlight-blocking dust, mites, mold, and other scourges, add a small capful of vinegar to a large spray bottle of water. Mist the tops and bottoms of plants leaves thoroughly. Gently wipe them, stroking in a single direction. Take care not to crack or split the leaves. Dry or brittle leaves are a natural indication of dehydration. If you’re treating your plants because they have been under-watered, take extra precautions when handling leaves.

Spraying foliage is only one component of establishing a properly humid environment for your houseplants. Unless your climate is already very humid, you may need to take extra to ensure there is a proper amount of moisture in the air. If leaves start to swell, begin to twist, or turn red or brown in places, avoid misting as these indicate too much humidity already.

If you need to increase humidity, an aesthetically pleasing addition to your decorating with tropical houseplants can be a medium to large fountain or water treatment. Situated between plants, it will help increase humidity levels in your home. This is a great suggestion for plants that are placed close to heaters or air conditioners where forced air will dry them out quickly.

Medium-sized potted plants can be placed on a tray of water-covered pebbles. The evaporation from the tray will balance humidity. In this situation, the entire pot in set on the pebbles. The plant is watered as normal, and the pebbles are covered with water separately from the plant.

Soil Drainage

The humidity that is in the air and the moisture that’s in soil are two different things. Some planters think that their houseplants are getting enough humidity because the soil stays moist. On the contrary, soil for adult houseplants should never stay continuously moist.

Soil drainage is vital to limiting growth of mold spores and fungus. Roots cannot sit in pooled water or they will develop these problems and more. They must have adequate access to air and nutrients. Drowning them in stagnant water cuts them off from these things. Watering them with dirty, chlorinated municipal water can have the same effect.

Ensure your plants are in the proper potting medium for their type, age and size. Large orchids, for example, should be placed in course orchid mix or bark. Some tropical plants require larger amounts of peat. Most standard varieties of tropical houseplants do well in high quality potting mix.

Watering patterns seem to have even a greater impact than soil type on plant growth and development. Certainly, there needs to be a reasonable balance between the two, and these combinations are as varied as types of plants. It is standard practice to give your houseplants a thorough soaking only when the top inch or so of soil is dry. Water them enough to soak the soil, but stop before water pools in the bottom collection tray.

Large tropical house plants should never be allowed to dry out completely. If you’re sprouting from seeds or cuttings, a moist potting medium is necessary. Any other time, avoid over-watering established plants or you could, quite literally, kill them with kindness. You wouldn’t fill your gas tank if it’s already full. Don’t water your houseplants if the roots are still wet.

Note: Many tropical houseplants are poisonous. Choose decorative plants that won’t build up toxicity if ingested by rambunctious pets or curious children. Some of these poisonous plants are said to exhibit medicinal properties in controlled dosages. These possibilities are part of the allure of growing large tropical houseplants and should be considered when choosing the right ones for your home.

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Succulent plants store water in their leaves and hence their leaves are fleshier than other plants. Many succulent plants come from the Tropics and Subtropics such as semi deserts and desert highs. High temperature and very low evaporation forces these plants to collect and store water, to survive longer in the dry conditions. This makes them easily adaptable to the severe conditions, both water and soil. They also grow along seacoasts and saltpans that are over exposed to a very high level of dissolved minerals. The best known or more commonly known succulent plant is cactus of the family Cactaceae. Virtually all cacti are succulent plants, but there are exceptions.

Succulents need plenty of light. A window greenhouse is an ideal place to accommodate the plants because a succulent plant survives in less soil. Large pots can make controlling moisture very difficult and this will result in a decline in the health of the succulent plant. They do not demand much attention, but add to the ambience of the home. These plants are easy to maintain and even when the family is away on vacation, you can be rest assured to return to a healthy garden.

Three most common house succulents are aloe, jade plant and ponytail palm

Aloe – Aloe Vera is one of the most famous ingredients used by many cosmetic industries to make hair and skin care products. It is medicinally very useful and a very effective remedy for treating burns. It is a handy plant to be grown in the kitchen garden. Many sunburn lotions contain aloe. Aloe, which is derived from a Greek word ‘allal’ and the Arabic ‘alloch’, means bitter. It usually has red or yellow flowers, but generally they don’t bloom indoors. Although aloe is grown in desert gardens that have mild climate, it can easily be grown in a pot too. The presence of aloe in the kitchen or terrace garden is a self-grown and motivating beauty therapy ingredient.
Many consume the juice or sap of the plant regularly.

Ponytail Palm – Beaucarnearecuvata is actually not a palm. This Mexican plant was first listed under Beaucarnea, then Nolina. It still has all the characteristics of a palm. For example, it has a palm like stem, with an expanded and broad base. The leaves are two to six feet long and mostly twisted. They resemble a ponytail. The flowers and fruits are rarely seen. Ponytail palm has a very moderate growth rate and is often a potted specimen. Indoors, it hardly reaches between one to three feet and it has a width of about one or two feet. If grown outdoors, it grows up to 20 feet, with a flaring base. The plant can be tended to effectively adapt to indoor and outdoor conditions and thrive in most soil and water conditions.

Jade Plant – Crassula ovata is the botanical name for the jade plant and this name was derived from a Latin word ‘Crassus’, which means thick or swollen, because of its leaves and stems. The plant has beautiful green glossy leaves, dark jade in color and hence, the name. The plants occasionally have red margins. This enhances the appearance even further. They bear beautiful white and pale pink colored flowers. The plant has a very moderate growth and may up to grow one or two feet in width and height. The plant needs heavy soil or a heavy pot to prevent it from falling because as it grows, the top gets heavier.

All cactus plants are considered succulents. The family Cactaceae is characterized by the areole. Even if a cactus does not have spines, it will have areoles. Almost all the family of Cactaceae originates in America. None of the succulent plants, except members of the succulent family Cactaceae, have areoles.

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Why potting soil matters…

Just like in any garden, your soil used in containers is of utmost importance. The quality of the soil is usually determined by its texture and fertility. The texture is related to soil particles and the size of them. For instance, sandy soil has a texture that allows for aeration with free movement of air and water, while clay particles leave little room because they tend to pack. Good soil texture is usually a combination of these, made up of sandy loam with plenty of organic matter.

Nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, and trace elements like calcium, zinc and magnesium make up the fertility of the soil. In order for plants to absorb the nutrients, a good balance of the acidity and alkalinity (pH) is necessary. If your potting soil provides both good texture and fertility, it will make a difference in the health and prosperity of your garden.

If the texture of your soil is too sandy, your plants will have problems taking root. If it is packed to hard without enough sand, the plants will be subjects of root rot. If the soil isn’t fertile or doesn’t have a good pH balance, the plants will literally starve to death. Using good potting soil can alleviate all of this and make your container garden thrive.

Choosing the right potting soil…

There is no perfect mix when it comes to potting soil because the requirement of the plants matter. There are tons of pre-packaged potting soil mixtures that are sufficient for many plants and then there are specialized soils for particular plants that are sensitive and require a certain texture and mix of nutrients. Making your own potting soil, instead of choosing a commercial mix, is always an option.

The best way to select the proper soil for a container garden is to research the plants that you intend to grow and get familiar with their requirements in regard to soil. Imitating the natural growing environment is always best; however, it may be more practical to just concentrate on the texture and fertility of the soil. If the soil is right, all that is left is feeding the plant, making sure that it gets enough sunlight, and watering ( Gilmour garden hoses are a good choice for this job.)

Making your own potting soil…

Making a potting soil that is ideal for your plants doesn’t have to include custom mixing your soil for each plant. That can be time consuming, as well as expensive. You can usually just start with a commercial potting soil that is nutritious and adequate for most plants and add to it. This may include adding sand, humus or peat moss. Adding lime may be necessary if the potting soil is too acidic. You can, and should, add fertilizer to your containers periodically. This is important because the nutrients that are in the soil can be depleted as the plants grow.

If you have the time and the money, making custom soil for potting certain plants can be beneficial. In researching the best growing requirements for individual plants, you are sure to find recipes for potting soil that will ensure optimal growth of the plant. There are hundreds of recipes that were formulated by gardeners who claim that the recipes are tried and true, so you don’t have to do all the research and experimentation to come up with the perfect mix.

If you find that the mix is less than perfect, you can rely on your own experience and knowledge to adapt the recipes a bit. Before long, you will be an expert at creating potting soil and other gardeners will rely on your abundance of experience and your formulation of recipes for excellent potting soil.

To be a successful container gardener, it is vital to select proper potting soil. The soil for container gardening is lighter than the soil in a traditional garden. It requires the texture and fertility that will allow for proper drainage while ensuring that your plants get enough nutrients, air and water.

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It’s important for your house plants to have the proper nutrients for growth. There are thirteen essential elements for plants to grow. Macronutrients are the most critical for your plants. The other elements are known as micronutrients. These are considered less critical for the overall health of the plants, but are still important.

Choosing a Fertilizer for House Plants

The fertilizer needed varies among plants. This information may be included on the care instructions, but this is often not the case. Consider the type of plant you will be feeding when selecting a fertilizer. Most flowering plants grow best with a fertilizer that is high in phosphorous. Foliage tends to like higher concentrations of nitrogen. You can research online or in books to find the best nutrients for your plants.

A good complete fertilizer contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. These nutrients are indicated by NPK ratings. The N stands for nitrogen, the P for phosphorous and the K for potassium oxide. For example, if the fertilizer is listed as 15-30-15, that tells you that the fertilizer contains 15% nitrogen, 30% phosphorous and 15% potassium.

Types of Fertilizers for Houseplants

Fertilizers come in many varieties. You can find them in water soluble powders, liquids, time release pellets, water soluble pellets, tablets and sticks. The liquid and water soluble varieties should be diluted in water prior to use. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for dilution. These are then applied to the plant according to the directions. The tablets, time released pellets and sticks are added to the plant and release the nutrients over a period of time.

How to use Fertilizers

Your house plants may come with directions for care. These are generally found printed on plastic stakes in the soil inside the pot. This is not always the case. If there are directions for fertilizing the plant, follow these directions. If not, you can ask at the nursery or garden center or read about your specific type of plant in a book or on the internet. In general, house plants should be fertilized every two or three months. Choose a fertilizer that will give the proper nutrients that your plant requires. Follow the directions for correct usage.

Fertilizer tends to be most effective when used in periods of growth. For most house plants, this is between March and October. Like outdoor plants, the lower levels of light and lower temperatures of the winter months result in an inactive period. This is not the ideal time to add fertilizer as it won’t be utilized by the plant as it is during the growth phase.

Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil, not when it is too dry. If the soil is too dry, you are more likely to over fertilize the plant. This can lead to root damage. Water the plant first. Once the soil is wet, you can add the fertilizer. This will avoid damage to the roots, which can inhibit growth or even kill the plant.

Be careful not to use too much fertilizer on your plants. You will be able to tell if you’ve used too much by looking at the plant. Houseplants that have been given too much fertilizer will have leaves that are turning brown, white dust on the pots and wilting leaves. You can help the plant get rid of the extra fertilizer by giving it extra water. This will help the additional salts from the fertilizer. Place the plant in a sink to allow the water to drain from the plant without making a mess in the house. Use a lot of water, until it runs freely out the bottom of the pot.

Proper care is important in addition to fertilizers. House plants do better with indoor temperatures that do not fluctuate wildly. Unlike outdoor plants, your indoor plants require a stable temperature. During the night hours, don’t let the temperature drop below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. The daytime temperatures should range from seventy to eighty degrees. Plants need some sunlight in order to grow properly. The amount of light needed depends, in part, on the type of plant. In general, place plants near a window, but not in direct sunlight.

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