Function

First and foremost, you should consider the function of the room. Public spaces in your home–like living rooms, dining rooms and family rooms–are places where you will want your guests to feel welcome on special occasions, but where your family members will want to relax on regular days. In rooms like this, paint colors should straddle the line between attractive and homey, formal and comfortable, subtle and sophisticated. Colors like sage green, gray blue and dark beige are all practical colors for these types of rooms because they’re timeless, attractive and likely to match a wide range of furnishings.

However, not all public spaces need to be decorated in this way. The kitchen is possibly the most public room of any house. It is in the kitchen where family members gather to prepare meals, eat snacks, and share stories from the day. Kitchens are often busy, hot, loud places. In this cheerful room, muted tones could seem out of place, and might diminish the energy level of the people in the room. Good colors for the kitchen include coral reds, sky blues and lime greens, to create a cheerful environment that will encourage activity and energy. White is also an appropriate color for kitchens because of its association with cleanliness.

Your bedroom is a place where personal expression should take priority. It is in the bedroom where you should feel free to use colors that match your preferences and personality, but keep in mind that the bedroom is ultimately a place for relaxing and sleeping. Cool colors and soft colors are more likely to create an environment that you can retreat to, while bright colors and warm colors are more likely to excite your emotions and prevent you from truly relaxing. When picking a color for your bedroom, you may wish to make a list of your favorite cool colors, and choose the hue from among those.

For other bedrooms in the house, you’ll want to take into account the occupant. Guest bedrooms should be painted in relaxing cool colors, to create a comfortable, peaceful environment for your guests, while bedrooms for children are usually painted in very bright hues, to stimulate activity and thought. Children who are old enough should be given some choice about the colors in their room, but prudent parents would be wise to allow their children to choose from a list, rather than giving their children freedom to choose whatever they wish. For children who are already excitable, muted colors might be more appropriate.

Size

The size and dimensions of a room play a huge role in the right paint color for that room. Even more important, however, is the the value (or, degree of lightness or darkness) of those colors. In general, light colors push walls back and open up space, while dark colors create intimacy in a room, and bring the walls closer together. Dark colors are best for large rooms with tall ceilings and a lot of natural light. Light colors are best for small rooms and rooms without a lot of natural light.

Sometimes people like to paint a room with more than one color. Accent walls are very popular and very useful for obscuring the dimensions of a room, or for the purposes of establishing a color scheme. Sometimes accent walls are used in small rooms to make a small space seem larger, or at least, different than what it really is. However, using more than one color in a small room can sometimes make the room seem busy and visually cluttered. Clutter should be avoided in small rooms–they make them seem smaller. For most small rooms, it’s best to limit the color on the walls to one color and a trim, usually a neutral like white or cream. If you’re bent on painting an accent wall in a small room, choose low-contrast colors that won’t draw as much attention to the walls.

Large rooms are different. If you wish to paint an accent wall or some other graphic such as a stripe, large rooms make the perfect canvas. If painting a room in multiple colors, choose colors that have a relationship to one another on the color wheel, or colors that are inspired by color combinations found in nature.

If a room has disproportionately high ceilings, the color of the ceiling may be brought down over a segment of the walls to make the ceiling seem lower. If a room has a strange nook or built-in shelving, that area of the room may be painted in a different color to draw attention to the room’s unique craftsmanship.

Tips on Selecting Paint Colors

Choosing interior paint colors for a new home is an important decision, and one that you’re likely to live with for years to come. Avoid choosing colors that are trendy. Sometimes homeowners paint their walls white or cream just to be on the safe side, but this choice can make the rooms of your home seem impersonal.

If you’re nervous about applying color to your walls, approach the matter in a practical way. Start by choosing a variety of swatches that you like from your local home improvement store. Narrow down your choices by eliminating colors, first based on what is appropriate for the room you’re painting, then based on the size and dimensions of the room. Once you’ve selected three or four colors that you like, paint a sample (about two feet by two feet) of each color on the wall. Wait for the paint to dry before you make your final choice.

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Lots of leftover paint winds up in landfills. Enough paint has been disposed of in this way to cause worry. It also gets poured down the drain. The problem with this is that both oil-based and latex-based paints have harmful chemicals that sewage treatment facilities can’t remove. They go straight into our groundwater, waterways, and oceans. For you next home improvement project, here’s some advice on how to minimize your waste paint—and what to do with the leftovers.

Don’t buy more than you need. Many people buy extra paint just in case they run out. To cut down on waste paint, do your best to buy accurately. How much paint you’ll need may depend on the material your wall is made of and the colors you’re covering up, as well as how much square-foot space you’ll need to cover. Buy only the paint you’ll use. A salesperson at your local paint store should be able to help you figure out how many gallons your project will need.

If there’s an inch left in the can—use it. Instead of throwing out or storing an inch or two of leftover paint, put it on your wall. This will save you the storage space as well as help the environment.

Use leftover paint as a base coat. Instead of using a primer coat, consider painting over your old color with some leftover paint before putting the new color on. This works particularly well if your old color is bright and difficult to conceal, and if your leftover paint is a neutral color. This may save you a second coat of your new color.

Make your old paint last. Paint can stay fresh for years if it’s sealed the right way. To do this, put a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of your paint can, then seal the can and store it upside down. This creates an airtight seal that locks the paint in, keeping it from getting crusty and unusable. The plastic layer makes it easier for you to open the can again when you need to.

Donate unwanted leftovers. If you’ve got a lot of leftover paint, there are plenty of places that would love to take it off your hands. A high school drama department or community theatre group may be grateful for it—all colors of paint are useful in building sets. Your local Habitat for Humanity, church or synagogue, or another charity may want it as well. If all else fails, put up a post on an online classified site like Craigslist.org. You shouldn’t have trouble finding someone who’s on the lookout for free paint.

Recycle your paint. If you can’t find anyone to take your leftover paint, and don’t want to keep it for the next project, recycle it. Not all recycling depots take paint, so contact your local recycling depot before you take your paint over. Paint cans are made of steel, and they are also recyclable. They’ll need to be rinsed completely and dried before a recycling depot will take them. Many cities have paint recycling programs that will pick up your paint for you and reuse it—check with your city’s recycling department for more details.

Dispose of your paint carefully. If you have no recycling program in your state, seriously consider hanging on to your leftover paint until you can find someone who wants it. In many states, it’s actually illegal to throw paint in the trash because of the damage it does to oceans and drinking water. However, it’s relatively safe to dispose of latex-based paints if they are dried out first—they are more hazardous in liquid form. You should also give your community’s local hazardous waste coordinator or recycling department a call, to ask about regulations and laws in your area regarding paint disposal. Oil-based paints should not be thrown out in the trash.

For more information about paint disposal, check out this website maintained by the paint industry: http://www.paint.org/. It contains information on how to set up a paint swap in your neighborhood, frequently asked questions about paint disposal and recycling, and more.

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Painting is essentially one of the easiest DIY jobs that you can do at home. But it is also a job that is incredibly easy to make a mess of … literally. So before you decide to attack the task of house painting yourself, take stock and make sure you are up to the job.

What you need to know to get a paint job right

You don’t need a university education to paint your house, even though in some European countries you can study for a master painter’s certification. But the truth is you do need some basic information along with some quite technical knowledge to ensure that you get it right.

First of all you need to know about the different types of paint that are available for painting our homes, both inside and outside. You need to know which of these may be used on different surfaces. What’s good for wood isn’t necessarily good for a plastered wall. You also need to know how to prepare the surface you are going to paint. While the basic preparation process is the same in terms of stripping and cleaning surfaces, base coats and primers are made for specific purposes. If you use a product that is not compatible with the paint you have chosen for the top coat, you’re going to be in big trouble. Not only will you make a mess, but you’ll be wasting the good money you have spent on paint and paint-related products.

Top ten reasons to hire a professional house painter to do the job for you

If you have the necessary knowledge, experience and energy to paint your own house, go for it. But here are ten good reasons why you might prefer to hire a professional to do the work for you.

1. You don’t have to take any responsibility for tedious preparation. Instead you can just make sure the person you are paying does it correctly.
2. A well trained and experienced professional house painter will know exactly what products to use. All the same, check these products out to make sure you are happy with the choice.
3. An experienced and capable painter will also be able to give you all the information you need to know about paint. With their guidance you will be able to choose the ideal products for your home – particularly if you want to make your own choices.
4. A good professional will be well equipped. You won’t have to outlay anything on ladders, drop sheets, buckets, rollers, paint brushes and so forth. Some may agree to you buying the materials to save on the contract.
5. A good professional house painter will know how to prepare every type of surface correctly. It won’t matter whether he or she is painting a ceiling, walls or door and window frames…
6. Professional painters are trained to take care of details you might not even consider. For example they will (or should) remove hardware like handles before they start work. It takes extra effort, but they are getting paid for this.
7. If the pro painter makes a mess, it’s not (or shouldn’t be) your problem.
8. Painting jobs usually take days and sometimes even weeks. If a professional painter is responsible for the job you won’t have to clean up every day, but they will.
9. If you are working with a professional interior designer, this person will liaise with your professional painter. The same applies to a project manager. You can simply check that the job is done to your satisfaction.
10. If the job isn’t done according to schedule and in terms of the contract, the painter will have to rectify the matter. If you do the painting, you simply can’t pass the buck!

What to expect from a professional painter

Apart from producing a good paint job, you can expect the pro painters to be exceptionally well organized and knowledgeable. If you are going to pay for a professional, you can expect that person to be well equipped and able to give you all the advice you need. This includes both product and color advice.

Expect to be shown good references and ask to see examples of work the company has completed. Check what licenses the painter has and make sure the company has adequate insurance. If something goes wrong and your precious furniture is wrecked, you don’t want to have to fork out to rectify the situation.

Expect the painters to show up clean and organized EVERY day. Sure they’ll get a bit grubby during the work day, but a successful work site is a clean, well organized work site.

If budget is a serious issue, consider young, new professionals who are starting out. But still get some sort of reference and perhaps start with one room or section of the house as a trial. While you may be concerned in terms of trustworthiness, it’s a two-way street. After all, if they don’t do the job properly and professionally, you’re not going to pay! If they do, you will.

Some reputable Canadian Painters

While we cannot take responsibility for any type of recommendation, here are some professional painters you might like to check out.

• The Canadian Painters, Great Painting Services – www.thecanadianpainters.com
• Painters.ca – www.painters.ca
• Commercial and Industrial Painting Contractors (Oakville) – www.propainters.ca
• Levsha Pro Painting and Home Renovations (Toronto) – www.levshapaintingandrenovations.com
• New Beginnings (Toronto) – www.renaissancepainters.ca
• Renaissance Painters (greater Toronto area) – www.renaissancepainters.ca

Just remember that when you approach professional painters, you can expect a professional service. And if you find a good, professional painter or painting company, tell your friends. There is, after all, nothing that is better than word of mouth – and this is one of the best reasons to hire a professional house painter you know you will be able to trust.

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The color wheel begins with the primary colors (red, yellow and blue). The primary colors are combined to make all other colors. The secondary colors (orange, green, purple) are each mixed by combining two primary colors. Tertiary colors are formed by mixing one secondary color with one primary color. Many successful color combinations are made up of colors on the color wheel that bear a relationship to one another.

Complementary Color Pairs

Colors found opposite one another on the color wheel are called complementary colors. Complementary color pairs are high contrast. These colors are often said to be “opposites”, much like black and white are said to be opposites. Red and green, purple and gold, and orange and blue are all complementary color pairs. These colors, when placed together in one room, create dramatic, sophisticated color schemes. Usually, one color is chosen to be the dominant color. Various shades of the dominant color are placed around the room and painted on the walls, while the accent color (or, non-dominant color) is used in small amounts.

Because complementary color pairs tend to be very bright and loud, earthier versions of these colors are used in most in interior design. For example, a room that uses an orange and blue color scheme might be made up of mostly gray-blues, with copper accents. The walls of the room will be painted entirely in shades of gray blue, or the blue may be broken up by a single horizontal stripe of copper near the ceiling.

Analogous Color Schemes
Colors found side by side on the color wheel are called analogous colors. Red and orange, green and blue, yellow and green are all analogous color pairs. Analogous colors are relatively low-contrast. These color pairs have a unifying effect when used in interior design. In fact, analogous color pairs are often combined with a neutral like white, cream or gray, in order to break up the colors and prevent them from becoming overwhelming.

When analogous colors are used in interior design, the brighter, more saturated versions of these colors are often used to prevent the color schemes from seeming uninspired, uninteresting or dull. For example, a kitchen might be painted in shades of tomato red and tangerine orange. The intense color of the walls may then be broken up with gleaming white counters, cabinets and floors.

Natural Color Combinations
Colors seen together in the outside environment are perceived by people as having a natural relationship that makes them pleasing to the eye. In addition, these colors usually have a relationship that can be pinpointed on the color wheel. For example, the colors of a Caribbean beach (very light yellow sand, turquoise-blue water) are near complements. There are an endless number of gorgeous color schemes in any given natural environment, and even in foods like fruits and vegetables.

A classic example, often used in interior design with beautiful results, is the eggplant color scheme. Deep rich purple, light grassy green and creamy khaki are frequently used with success in modern homes. In a smaller room, khaki walls with accents of light purple and green are appropriate, while larger rooms may look best if they are dominated by the darker colors.

Painting Walls Two Or More Colors

Although many people simply choose one single color to paint their walls, it is becoming increasingly common to paint a room with two or three colors. There are many different ways this can be done. One method is to reserve a single wall as an “accent” wall. An accent wall is a wall that has been painted a color different from the other three walls in the room. Sometimes accent walls are dramatically different in color, other times they are only subtly different. A high contrast accent wall adds drama to a room and provides a focal point. A low contrast accent wall may not even be consciously noticed by people in the room. Low contrast accent walls serve to create a dynamic visual flow while reinforcing a color scheme.

In rooms with unusual wall structures, like built-in shelving, the majority of the room may be painted in a single color, leaving the shelving to be painted in the other colors of the color scheme.

Patterns like stripes are a more obvious way to display of multiple colors on a wall, but this daring approach is still fairly uncommon and probably not for everyone. However, a single band of horizontal color painted all the way around the room will establish your color scheme without the high-impact results of a full pattern of stripes.

If you’re having a hard time finding the right interior paint color combination, many stores that sell paint can provide catalogs and books with photographs of attractive color schemes. Picking a theme will help as well, since many themes have built-in color schemes (for example, a red white and blue combination for an Americana themed room). Remember that different color combinations are appropriate for different rooms. Color schemes dominated by darker colors should be limited to larger rooms, and lighter, calmer color combinations are appropriate for smaller rooms. Formal spaces in the home, like the living room and dining room, benefit from color combinations that involve neutral and earthy colors. Brighter, bolder combinations are more appropriate in bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. In this way, the colors help to reinforce the purpose of the room and the interactions of people who occupy it.

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What You Will Need

Painting a new exterior door will require:

• Clean rags
• Drop cloth
• Mini roller
• Paintbrush
• Bucket
• Roller tray or grid
• Paint
• Sawhorses
• Masking tape

Additional items needed for painting and repainting may include:

• Sandpaper
• Screwdriver
• Sander
• Tack cloth
• Caulk
• Putty knife

Step One: To Prime or Not Prime?
If you bought a new door, it may already be primed. The door, which will usually be some shade of grey, has been primed in the factory according to specifications that will allow it to readily accept paint. Do not prime it again. Metal doors are always primed.

If you buy a new wood door, it may not be primed. If this is the case, first ensure that the door is totally free of dust and dirt. Then place the door on the sawhorses.

Step Two: Remove All Hardware
If you’re preparing to paint an old door or a new one with hardware, it’s best to remove all of the items, including hinges, doorknob, doorknocker, strike plate and peephole. You may also use masking tape to protect them from the paint but this is not recommended due to the fact that this makes it harder to ensure the areas around the hardware are properly covered.

Step Three: Sanding the Door
If you have an old wood door, you’ll need to sand and scrape off all old paint and any dirt on the door. A palm sander holding 80-grit sandpaper works well and will help make this job go quickly. Once the surface is smooth you’re ready to move on.

If you have an old metal exterior door, you’ll need to sand any rust down. For this job use a palm sander with 50-grit sandpaper. The surface needs to feel smooth and be free of rust.

Step Four: Making Sure the Exterior Door is Clean
Before priming your door be sure to wipe off any excess dust or rust and rub down the surface with a tack cloth. Any foreign material will inhibit the paint from adhering to the door’s surface.

Step Five: Priming the Exterior Door
Using either water based acrylic paint for wood or an oil primer for metal, paint the door’s six sides—the exterior, interior and each of the four edges. Priming all sides will help ensure the durability of the door.

Step Six: Fixing Cracks
Inspect an older wood door for any cracks. Fill the cracks with caulk, using a putty knife to ensure the crack is filled properly and the surface flush with the door. Once the caulk is dry, prime that section again.

Step Seven: Painting Techniques
If you have a door that offers a totally smooth surface, that is one without panels, then you can use a small roller to paint the door. If your door has panels, then paint the recessed parts first with a brush, starting with the corners. Then paint the raised surfaces with a small roller. Whether the door is flat or paneled, use a brush to paint the areas near the edges. Don’t overload the brush or roller with paint and don’t allow it to puddle on the door.

Step Eight: Painting the Door
Paint the exterior side first. If your door opens in, you’ll need to paint the hinged side of the door the same color. If painting a wood door, always go with the grain. Paint stiles, the long sides of the door, with the grain, which will be up and down, and the rails, the top and bottom edges, side to side.

Step Nine: Drying
Allow the door 24 hours to dry. Be sure to seal up your paint and clean brushes, rollers and pans. Also, secure all hardware.

Step Ten: Additional Coats
Chances are your door will need at least one additional coat if not more. The darker the color, the more coats you will need. After the door is dry, wipe down with a clean cloth and with a tack cloth to remove any dirt or dust that may have accumulated. Paint the door again as described above, allowing it to dry before applying a third coat.

It’s best to paint the interior part of the door after the exterior, stiles and rails are done. You can prime the interior and perform any prep work needed at the same time that you are working on the exterior. When painting the interior approach it in same manner in which you did the exterior.

Express Yourself with Taste

Painting an exterior door is a great way to add a tasteful accent to your home and to bring its look and style together. If you do the job right, your door will look better and last longer.

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A newly plastered wall is the easiest of the three projects mentioned – or it should be. Generally an alkali-resistant plaster primer should be painted on the raw plaster. This is then covered with a relatively inexpensive undercoat, which will provide a key for the topcoat. The final coat is the one that provides the final finish, although there may be several of these. There is nothing difficult to consider, and anybody can get it right.

On the other hand, if a wall has been painted previously, you will need to get rid of any bits of original paint that are peeling. You may also need to paint on a primer and/or an undercoat, depending on what was originally applied to the wall. This can be really hard work, particularly in terms of preparation. Sometimes an uneven surface can be sanded, but often it will need to be thoroughly stripped.

When it comes to wallpaper, nothing is obvious. This means that you are going to have to do a bit of detective work – unless of course you did the wallpapering job yourself, in which case you will (or should) know what materials were used, and how they were used. Well hung, wallpaper can cover a multitude of sins.

First off you will need to see how sound the surface is, and how likely it is to peel if you coat it with wet paint. Usually, to strip wallpaper, what you do for starters is to coat it systematically with warm water. As the water soaks into the paper, it starts to come away from the wall. But sometimes wallpaper has been stuck to the wall so firmly that it becomes exceedingly difficult to remove.

One way to approach a project of this kind would be to try and strip the wallpaper before you even start painting. Certainly that can work.

If you aren’t able to get the wallpaper off easily, it may be a lot easier to simply paint over it. But if you have started to strip it, perhaps by pulling off sections, you might find that all you have done is to create a hugely uneven surface that will look really ugly coated with any type of paint. Remember that preparation is paramount when it comes to a good, professional paint job. If you create your own craters, you are going to have to rectify them with a filler of sorts. It isn’t difficult to do, but it time consuming and can often be avoided.

Another factor to bear in mind, if you want to paint over wallpaper, is to assess the texture of the wallpapered surface you are going to be painting over. Even if the wallpaper is totally sound, and won’t start peeling when it comes into contact with moisture, if it isn’t smooth, this could also cause problems. By the same token, depending on the effect you want to achieve, you could use texture in your favor. Remember that in the Victorian era (particularly in the UK), there was a type of wallpaper – anaglypta – that was embossed and manufactured for use under paint. The idea was that it would look a bit like the glorious steel-pressed ceilings used so widely during that era. Anaglypta was generally pasted below a dado rail in passages and living rooms, where a decorative textured effect was required.

Now if the embossing or other texture on your wallpaper isn’t “glorious”, you are going to have a problem. Some embossing is, after all, just plain ugly, and certainly not intended for over-painting. On the positive side, textured paper is usually the thicker type. This means that you may simply have to strip the outer layer of the wallpaper. Often it will come away quite easily leaving the part that was glued intact. If, when you start painting, the remaining paper starts to bubble, STOP. This is an indication that it will be a very easy job to remove what is left.

Another potential problem when painting over wallpaper is covering the colors and patterns on the paper. If the wallpaper is a dark color, or there is a lot of pattern in its finish, then it will be likely to take multiple coats of paint to get rid of both color and pattern. Generally, the best approach is to coat the paper with a universal undercoat. Once this has dried, paint a good solid coat of white paint – unless of course you are aiming for a dark color, in which case use that from the start. Allow each coat of paint to dry thoroughly, over-coating until you achieve the result you want to achieve.

Consider all these possibilities before you paint over wallpaper. It may even be better to call someone in to strip it for you!

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Apart from specially mixed paint colors, all paint companies produce their own standard color ranges, most of which are so similar to their competitors that nobody really bothers to compare them. But if you paint Company A’s paint on a wall, and then finish the paint job with what you consider to be “the same” paint color from Company B, chances are you are going to find that the colors don’t match. Well they might look similar, but they probably aren’t going to be an exact match. The solution to this problem is to ensure that you use exactly the same paint to complete or patch a job. This means not only the color, but also the paint manufacturer. The color may even vary slightly according to the batch in which it was mixed – or because of its age.

But what if you buy a property and find that you have to match paint colors without any help from those who did the original paint job? In other words you don’t have access to the people who specified or used the paint in the first place. Alternatively, a specially mixed color may have been used. If this is the case, a good solution is to go to a paint store and get a selection of paint cards with similar colors. Depending on the age of the paint surface you are trying to match, you may surprise yourself on how easy this exercise actually is.

If you need to paint – or repaint – within an existing room, an obvious solution is to take a sample of something that is the color you want (even a chip of plaster will be do) to your store and ask for their help. Usually they will mix paint and then let you see the color before you buy. Stores aren’t likely to experiment, if you don’t guarantee you will pay for the paint; but they will often do what it takes to match colors for their clients.

Many creative people don’t really care about mixing paint colors. In fact they prefer to play around with hues that they blend with one another. Many interior decorators also like to mix their own paint colors, using the tinters that the professional paint companies use. In fact if you are really serious about trying to match paint colors, and find that you can’t get the exact match from a commercial company, you could try adding tinters yourself. For example, if you are trying to achieve a “dirty” pinkish hue, and the color you have been supplied with is too pure (or clean), you could add a bit of raw umber to change a particular paint color slightly (or even quite dramatically). Most good paint shops will sell you these tinters in small (or if you wish quite large) containers.

Decorative painters, employed to create broken paint effects on walls (like ragging or sophisticated color washing), generally prefer to mix their own colors. This way they can match paint colors in their own particular way. For example, they may start with a basic hue that fits the interior design, and then they can use tinters to lighten, darken, brighten or subdue the original color. Eventually it becomes a glorious mix which forms a specific palette for the room they are painting. If you think about it you will realize that decorative paint finishes often comprise a variety of hues, each of which melds with the next. So one bit of the wall might have more orange in it while the other is browner. This way the painter can match fabrics and create quite dramatic color and pattern effects.

If you are approaching color for the first time, don’t be threatened by the need to “match” color. Also don’t be put off by the rules that experts throw around. Rather be guided from the world around you. If you start paying attention to nature, you might start to notice that colors don’t always “match” in nature. You will find reds, oranges and yellows all existing beautifully together.

By the same token, if you have a color theme in your home, it is a good idea to try and make the colors work together. It’s up to you to decide on the balance.

Essentially what you need to do is to decide on an overall decorative theme – or scheme – for your room or home as a whole – and then you can work on the colors. Paint is a wonderful tool, and by matching and contrasting colors, you can achieve your own individualist effect. Match paint colors by all means, but make certain the meet your needs.

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So if you are not conscientious about cleaning up after DIY jobs, don’t go buying the most expensive tools available. Rather buy cheap, special-offer brushes that you can discard after a few times of use. The only problem with most of the cheaper brushes is that the bristles tend to come away from the brush, or shed, more easily. If finish is really important (which it usually is for any top coat) or if you are going to be using a specialist paint brush, for example an expensive genuine badger brush, for a paint technique, then there will be no getting away from the cleaning process.

So What’s Involved in Cleaning a Paint Brush?

First of all you need to consider what paint you are using. Whatever is needed to clean brushes and other painting tools like rollers, will be the same ingredient you will use if you need to dilute the paint prior to using it.

Generally, paints are either water-based (emulsions and acrylics) or solvent-based (for example enamels and alkyds). Water is the easy one, although be warned that water-based paints dry a lot more quickly than solvent-based paints do, so they also wreck brushes more easily.

If you are going to opt for a solvent-based type, make sure you know what solvent is required. Most solvent-based paints are designed to work with ordinary mineral turpentine. Thinners is another solvent, for example that is used for most lacquers, but only use it if the manufacturer’s instructions tell you too. Try cleaning a paint brush you have used for emulsion paint with thinners and you’ll end up with a globular mess. Some paints are designed to be used with a specific solvent made by the same manufacturer. Don’t mess about experimenting with other solvents, just buy the correct product in the first place, or choose a different type of paint.

If you are going to be using more than one type of paint, for example an acrylic paint for a wall and enamel for the skirting board, then use different paint brushes. Apart from the solvent factor, you will need a narrow brush for a skirting and a much wider one for the wall. Even though it takes longer to paint a wall with a brush, rather than a roller, there are people (including me) who prefer using a brush. It’s easier to control where you put the paint and doesn’t normally result in paint spatters all over your head and face!

Before you start any paint job, always make sure that you have all the tools and equipment you need. This includes rags for mopping up any spills, and for cleaning at the end of the project. You can buy rolls of cloth for this purpose at paint and hardware stores, or use an old tee-shirt that you might otherwise throw away.

Using water to clean your brushes
When you have finished your paint project, wipe as much of the paint out of the brush as possible. There will usually be some part of the surface that you painted first that will be dry. Often you can wipe any leftover paint over the dry surface. Then hold the brush under cold running water and use a scrubbing brush to brush out any paint that is still sticking to the bristles. You will find that paint has a nasty habit of gathering at the base of the bristles, so continue this process until the water runs clear.

Once the brush is clean, with absolutely no trace of paint, go outside and shake the brush to get rid of excess water. Then lay it flat where it can dry.

Many paint projects involve two or more coats of paint, but don’t be tempted to leave cleaning until the project is complete. Remember that while you’re waiting for the first coat of paint to dry, it will dry on your brush as well. Leaving the brush in water for this time is a possible solution, but you’ll still need to get rid of the excess before you start work again. Otherwise what happens is the water that collects in the bristles has a tendency to dribble down your hand when you start painting again.

Using solvents to clean your brushes
The process you will use with solvents is similar to the one you follow with water, except that you can’t use running liquid for the cleaning process. Instead, having wiped off as much excess paint as possible using a rag, put the brush into a container that you have filled with the solvent, an old but clean tin or a jar for example. Old paint cans are a good idea because they have a larger neck than many other containers. Just be sure the can is clean before you use it. Be careful not to use plastic containers because chemical solvents will melt the material and you’ll end up with a slushy mess.

Then you need to work the paint out of the brush. It sometimes helps to use a second, smaller brush to do this. Don’t use a scrubbing brush unless you wear gloves because solvents can damage your skin. Once you have removed all the paint and as much of the solvent as possible, you can either use the brush again straight away, or soak for a while in warm, soapy water, rinse, shake out the water, and lay it flat to dry.

If you find it difficult to get your brush properly clean after you have used it to paint with enamels, an excellent solution is to use a degreaser.

Using degreasers to clean your brushes
Some paint manufacturers make these products and market them especially for cleaning brushes. They may also be used to get rid of motor oil and other greasy spillages on garage or workroom floors, or even on brick paved surfaces.

Degreasers are extremely powerful solvents, and the way they work is to convert the grease into a form that can be rinsed off with water. So if you are cleaning a paint brush using a degreaser, you first wipe as much excess paint off it as possible. Then you put a small amount of the liquid into a container and dip the brush into it. Push the bristles into the liquid, working the paint out the same as you do with ordinary solvents. Be sure to be thorough otherwise when you rinse with water you won’t get all the paint out. That’s why it is usually best to use a solvent like turpentine first, and then complete the process with a degreaser.

The last part of the process is to run the brush under cold running water, which will become cloudy as it comes into contact with the residue. Make sure you get rid of all residue. Then soak in warm soapy water, rinse, shake and leave to dry.

Always wear gloves when you work with degreasers because they can do a lot of skin damage.

TIP: If you’re cleaning a badger brush, use a hair conditioner on it after you’ve cleaned it. They are expensive tools and it pays to look after them.

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Using latex paint indoors is appealing because it is non-toxic and has less of an odor than oil based paints. The odors from latex paint will usually clear quickly once the paint has dried which will only take about an hour. With proper ventilation, a freshly painted room will be safe almost immediately. Latex paint is non-flammable as well and can be thinned with water; oil based paints must be thinned with solvents that are quite flammable, offering a dangerous fire hazard. Choosing latex paint keeps those foul smelling chemicals out of your home which is especially important for families with children.

Latex paint adheres best to a clean surface; it will not stick to a dirty or dusty wall so make sure to wipe down any grimy surfaces and allow them to dry before applying latex paint. Recent innovations in the paint industry have resulted in latex paints that will resist fading and yellowing, will not crack or peel, and will resist mildew in humid areas. Latex paint can be applied to masonry or galvanized steel and will provide a smooth, shiny finish.

When it comes time for touch-ups (it seems like they’re always necessary), latex paint is easier to touch up than oil-based paints. However, higher gloss latex paints will more readily show touched-up areas, so the touch-ups may not look perfect no matter what. If a second coat of latex pain is needed, it can be applied one hour after the first coat because it dries very quickly. With oil-based paints, that second coat will have to wait a full twenty-four hours (maybe more if it is rainy outside).

Widely available in many shades of color, latex paint also comes in different grades and finishes. The grade refers to the paint quality and greatly influences pricing, and the finish refers to the glossiness of the paint once it has dried (eggshell, semi-gloss, etc.). Because latex paint is water soluble, it is very easy to clean up if it is spilled or splattered on another surface – warm soapy water will do the trick.

One great attribute of latex paint is its environmental friendliness; it is considered a non-hazardous material so it may be disposed of with regular refuse. It should never be poured down a drain or into a sewer, but it should be allowed to dry out before disposal so that it forms a solid. To dispose of a can of latex paint with less than 1 inch of paint left, place the lid securely on the can and the put it in a tightly sealed trash bag. Dispose of this sealed trash bag with your other household garbage. If the latex paint can has more than an inch of paint left, dry it before disposal by adding kitty litter or sand (one paint company even offers waste paint hardener), or allowing the can to sit with the lid open for a few days. Once dried, replace the lid, put the can into a trash bag, seal it, and put it out for regular collection.

There are other ways to dispose of your extra latex paint such as passing it along to a friend in need, or even using it to paint a doghouse or another room in your own home. Some paint recycling agencies exist that will take in a can of used latex pain that is still in good condition and will make these half-used cans available to other residents, businesses, or schools. Be sure to check with neighbors and loved ones before you waste unused paint, you never know who may need it! Before you part with the paint, think about keeping it in case the paint gets scuffed or nicked in the future; it’s almost impossible to recreate a paint color unless you know the original color and manufacturer, so do not be too hasty in disposing of extra paint.

Latex paint is a safe, clean option for both interior and exterior work. If you need assistance selecting the proper paint for your home, consult with a local paint professional – they will help you choose the right grade and finish to make your new paint job look spectacular!

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Cool Colors

Cool colors (blues, purples, greens) are known to relax the mind and spirit. Literally, these colors are known to slow metabolism, calming down those people who see them.

In the world of advertising, blue is not an attention-grabber (as in the case of the warm colors) and thus is not useful for making an immediate, high-impact impression. However, there are manufactured products that make frequent use of the color blue because of its association with cool temperatures, ice, water, clarity and cleanliness. Clear alcohol (such as vodka) and cleaning products make frequent use of the color blue in packaging and advertising. Because of its abilities to suppress excitement and impulsivity, blue is also associated with intellect, thoughtfulness and deep introspection. Blue is viewed as a sophisticated color, used to advertise cutting-edge technology. Gray-blues have a zen-like quality, promoting peace and calm. This color is frequently painted on walls in rooms where it is important for the occupants to feel calm (such as spas and doctor’s offices). Light gray-blue is also known as a “recessive color”, meaning that this color falls into the background. For this reason, light gray-blue paint is often used in interior decor to make smaller rooms seem larger, airier and more open. Finally, blue is an appetite suppressant, thus making it an unfavorable color for food and food products.

Green is associated with plant life, freshness and nature. Green is often used in modern times to symbolize respect for the environment. Green is frequently used in packaging for “green” (earth-friendly) products. Green is associated with healing, is said to be easiest on the eyes and is even believed to improve vision. Light, desaturated greens like sage and mint are used in interior decor to create calming, refreshing interiors. In the US, green is also the color of money and thus associated with cash, and sometimes wealth.

Purple is the color of royalty. In classical history, purple material could only be purchased by wealthy elite and nobility because it was so expensive (hence the color name, royal purple). Purple is not a common color in nature, but is seen in varieties of flowers, foods and animals. Perhaps because of this lack of association with any specific object in nature, purple is often seen as symbolizing spirituality and mystery. In the Chakra system, purple is associated with the “third eye”, and is closely tied with wisdom and spiritual inquiry. Shades of deep purple like plum and eggplant are common in living room and dining room decor, where sophisticated colors are appropriate. However, lighter, more child-like shades of purple are common in bedrooms for little girls.

How Warm Colors Affect your Mood

The warm colors (red, yellow and orange) are known to excite the mind and spirit. These colors are associated with fire and thus, warm temperatures. Each warm color has its own individual effect on humans.

Red is a stimulating, emotionally charged, exciting color. Its associations with blood, meat, love, lust, passion and anger all trigger very specific emotional responses in humans. In the western world, red is a color associated with romance and sex, and so gifts from one lover to another are often red (red roses, chocolates in a red heart-shaped box). Red is also used heavily in advertising because of its natural attention-grabbing qualities, and specifically in the food industry because the color red is known to be an appetite stimulant. This is so prevalent that in the US, carbon monoxide is used in the meat packing industry to prevent meat from turning brown over time. Red meat is more attractive to consumers and sells better. In interior design, red is more often used as an accent and less often as a dominant color in a room because it can be overwhelming for occupants. When red is used as the dominant color in a room, it is usually a darker, more sophisticated shade of red (the color of red wine).

Orange is a cheerful color that is highly noticeable. Orange is frequently used in roadsigns when special caution is warranted, such as in cases of road construction. It is a color of warning, but also a color associated with warm places on the globe, tropical heat, citrus fruit and good health. Deeper shades of orange are associated with autumn and coming harvest. It is the deeper shades of orange that most people prefer to use in interior decor, probably because these shades are less abrasive, more subtle and their associations with harvest seem to give them depth and significance.

Yellow is a bright, uplifting color, symbolizing the sun and a cheerful disposition. Yellow is actually the most visible of all colors, and is excessively stimulating to the eyes. Although yellow is seen as a primarily cheerful color, it tends to aggravate people when used in excess in interior design. This color is best used in small doses.

Although each person has their own personal associations and memories of each color of the rainbow, most people will share similar responses to the same colors. The next time you’re thinking about redecorating your house, advertising for an event, marketing a product, planning a meal, or buying a gift for a romantic partner, give strong thought to your color choices and how colors affect moods.

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