What happens when my cat comes into “heat”?

Queens come into “heat” or “call” (estrus) many times a year. Cats in estrus become very affectionate and vocal, demand attention and roll frequently. When stroked they raise their rear quarters and tread the ground with their back legs. These behavioral changes can confuse the inexperienced owner who may misinterpret them as pain or illness. The pattern of estrus is variable from cat to cat and can be seasonal.

What will mating entail?

Queens are induced ovulators, which means that they ovulate in response to mating. When mating, the male cat holds the queen’s scruff in his teeth and on his ejaculation the queen cries out and frequently becomes aggressive. Although it appears violent, this is normal mating behavior. She will then wash herself, wait a while, and then start again.

How long will my cat be pregnant?

Pregnancy (gestation) ranges from 60-67 days, averaging 63-65 days. It is important to record the date of mating.

Will my cat’s diet need to be changed during pregnancy?

During pregnancy the queen’s food consumption will reach 1.5 times her pre-pregnancy level. By the time of weaning it may exceed 2 times the pre-pregnancy level. It will be necessary to increase the number of meals given and/or feed a diet formulated for kittens, since this provides the extra nutrients required for pregnancy and nursing.

Will my cat’s behavior change during pregnancy?

During pregnancy the cat’s behavior alters little, although some cats become more loving, and a few become aggressive. During the final week the queen may search for a suitable kittening bed. Cats should be confined indoors at this time. It is important that you are able to closely monitor the cat to witness any complications and prevent any suffering.

What preparations are needed before my cat has her kittens?

The kittening bed can take many forms, but a cardboard box lined with newspaper, old sheets or towels is ideal. The bed should be warm, cozy and private but must be observable.

First Stage Labor

This is essentially the relaxation of the cervix and vagina and the start of intermittent contraction in the uterus. The pelvic muscles slacken and the perineum (the area between the anus and the vulva) becomes looser and longer. At this stage the uterine contractions are not yet visible as straining, although movement of the fetuses may be seen and felt through the abdominal wall. There is little to see at this stage except repeated visits to the kittening bed, and many cats will desire reassurance from the owner. Scratching and bed-making may be evident and some cats may begin to pant. The queen usually stops eating during the last 24 hours before labor, and her temperature may drop below 100oF (37.8oC). Vaginal discharge is rarely seen. In many cats having their first litter, this first stage of labor can be prolonged, lasting up to 36 hours.

Second and Third Stages

In second stage labor the uterine muscle begins stronger and more frequent contractions. As each fetus enters the pelvis, the outer layer of its membranes appears briefly at the vulva as the “water bag” which bursts and is cleaned up by the cat. The inner membranes remain on the fetus and act as a lubricant to assist its passage.

As the fetal head passes into the pelvis, its pressure causes voluntary straining using the abdominal muscles. This “bearing down” helps to move the fetus through the pelvis. This is usually the point at which the attendant can see that the cat is actually straining. Normally, delivery of a kitten from the commencement of the second stage may take from 5 to 30 minutes. Once the head is out of the vulva, one or two more strains should complete the passage of the narrower remainder of the kitten’s body.

Third stage labor follows immediately and is seen simply as the passage of the membranes, complete with the greenish black mass of separated placenta (the after-birth). Each set of membranes is normally passed immediately after each kitten, although sometimes a second kitten will follow so quickly that the membranes from the first will be delayed temporarily. As each kitten is born, the mother will tear open the membranes and clear the mouth and nose area of the kitten, bite off the umbilical cord and subsequently eat the after-birth. Intervals between kitten births are variable; in the average case they last ten minutes to an hour.

Interrupted Labor

So-called interrupted labor is sufficiently common in the cat to be considered a normal occurrence. In this case the queen ceases straining, rests happily, suckles those kittens already born and accepts food, despite still having more kittens to deliver. This resting stage may last up to 24 or even 36 hours, after which straining recommences and the remainder of the litter is born normally.

Owners should observe the process closely, but should not upset the queen by interfering any more than absolutely necessary. Most cats deliver their kittens without complications; however, first time mothers should be attended by their owners. Once all of the kittens have been born, the dirty bedding can be removed and replaced.

What problems can arise during parturition?

Most cats give birth to their kittens without difficulty. However, dystocia (difficult birth) can occur.

A breeder should suspect that something may be wrong if:

• 1.Twenty minutes of intense labor does not produce a kitten.
• 2.Ten minutes of intense labor does not expel a kitten seen at the queen’s vulva.
• 3.If gentle traction on the trapped fetus causes the queen pain.
• 4.The queen is depressed, lethargic or has a fever (rectal temperature greater than 103oF or 39.4oC).
• 5.The queen loses fresh blood from her vulva for more than ten minutes.

In the case of dystocia a veterinarian should be consulted.

How do I revive a non-responsive newborn kitten?

1.Tear the membranes from the nose, wipe the nose and open the mouth, tilt the kitten head down and clear away any fluid.

2.If the cord has not broken on delivery, tear it an inch from the kitten and remove the wet, sloppy bulk of the membranes. Complicated cutting and tying of the cord are not necessary. The cat would chew it through, providing a blunt crushing action to prevent bleeding; you can tear it between your first two fingers and thumb, which does much the same thing.

3.If the kitten is not breathing, or if it was delivered tail first and possibly inhaled fluid, it is necessary to clear debris and fluid from the air passages. Take the kitten lying in the palm of the hand, its back towards the palm and neck between forefinger and third finger, its head protruding between the fingers. Enclose the kitten in the fingers and, turning the hand palm downwards with the arm extended; give a sharp swing several times. Make sure that you are not near a table or other protruding edge when swinging the kitten. The swing will have the effect of forcing fluids out of the air passages and a further wipe of nose and mouth will clear it away. The swing will also serve to stimulate respiration. The kittens tongue is a reliable indicator of respiration. If the kitten is receiving sufficient oxygen the tongue will be pink, if not it will have a bluish tint.

4.The next move imitates the licking of the abdominal wall and stimulates respiration. It comprises a stroking, rubbing movement with a clean towel. Follow this by a brisk, general rub dry, assuming that the kitten is now showing regular breathing. If it is not, some further form of artificial respiration may be necessary. Of these, mouth to mouth resuscitation is probably the most useful if carried out carefully. There are several essential points to remember. Firstly, it is no use blowing fluids and debris further down the respiratory tract. These secretions must be cleared by the swing method and/or gentle shaking of the kitten in the head-down position. Secondly, the capacity of kitten lungs compared to the human is quite minute. Blow very gently and allow a pause for expiration. Repeat this cycle every three to five seconds. Ideally, use a short drinking straw to blow through since this is more hygienic and reduces the risk of damaging the kitten’s lungs by over-inflation.

Warmth is a primary essential for the newborn. The kitten cannot react to cold by shivering and cannot control its own body temperature. In nature, warmth is obtained by direct body contact with the mother and conserved by the enclosed kittening bed. The first point to remember is that a newborn wet kitten loses heat very rapidly, hence the brisk rub dry. If the mother is ill or uncooperative, gently lay the kitten in contact with a warm, well-covered hot water bottle and conserve heat with a covering blanket. Great care must be taken not to inflict contact burns by having the bottle too hot. An acceptable alternative is the infra-red lamp. Its disadvantages are that many cats dislike the open bed required for its use, and that it may make both mother and kittens too hot and lessen the close normal nursing contact. Ideally the temperature in the box should be maintained at 85-90oF (29.4-32.2oC). The box should be large enough for the kittens to move away from the heat if they become too hot. The temperature can be gradually reduced to 80oF (26.7oC) by 7-10 days and to 72oF (22.2oC) by the end of the first month.

Do I need to help my cat raise her kittens?

Occasionally kittens will be born prematurely. They will be small, thin, and have little or no hair. These kittens require intensive nursing care. Premature kittens often fail to nurse, and often need to be fed with a syringe, bottle or stomach tube. They also need to be kept warm if the queen rejects them.

A normal healthy kitten, when warm and dry, needs no assistance in finding its mother’s teat and suckling. Occasionally an exhausted, restless, nervous or ill queen may fail to assist her kittens. Failure on the part of the cat to nurse its kittens should be checked by a veterinarian because if the mother is unable to care for the kittens they may need to be hand fed. (For further information on raising kittens please see separate leaflet).

Are there any post-birthing complications I may need to know about?

1.Retention of Fetal Membranes
Occasionally a cat may fail to pass the final set of fetal membranes after parturition appears to be complete. These cats often show signs of restlessness and abdominal discomfort, and may be unwilling to settle with her kittens during the 24-72 hours after parturition. Her appetite may be poor and a brownish vaginal discharge may be seen. Examination will show a raised temperature and palpation of the abdomen will disclose a thickened lumpy area of womb. Veterinary treatment is required. Antibiotic treatment is necessary and medications may be necessary to cause the expulsion of the retained membranes.

2. Metritis or EndometritisMetritis (inflammation of the womb) usually occurs within three days of parturition. The cat is much more obviously ill than with retention of fetal membranes. She will be dull and lethargic, completely ignore her kittens and refuse food. She may have an increased thirst and may vomit. A purulent, foul-smelling discharge is present coming from her vagina and she will have a fever. On palpation the abdomen is tender and the uterus is thickened. Veterinary treatment is required, usually consisting of antibiotics.

3. MastitisMastitis or infection of a mammary gland in its acute suppurative form sometimes occurs during early lactation. It is usually confined to one gland and may follow a simple congestion or overstocking. The affected gland will be tense, hot, painful and enlarged. If it is only congested, the application of gentle heat and subsequent gentle massage will bring normal milk out of the teat orifice, and the situation may be speedily relieved by milking the gland concerned. If an abscess is present, the cat will not eat, be lethargic and feverish, and in addition to pain and swelling in the gland, a purplish area of accumulated pus will be seen. Veterinary treatment is needed.

4. Lactation Tetany
In the cat lactation tetany tends to be seen 17 days to eight weeks after the birth of the kittens. The condition involves a sudden drop in the amount of calcium circulating in the bloodstream, associated with the demands of milk production. The affected cat usually has a fairly large litter to suckle. The first signs of the onset of the condition include incoordination and tetanic muscular spasms, with later collapse and coma. Treatment with intravenous injection of calcium preparations leads to a spectacular reversal of the condition. A later subcutaneous injection may be required to maintain the recovery. Kittens should be removed from the cat if old enough, otherwise their numbers must be reduced or supplementary feeding given. Any affected cat should only be allowed to rear a small number of kittens at any subsequent litter. Lactation tetany often occurs after each kittening so this must be remembered when considering the advisability of breeding from an affected queen.

About the Author:
This article was supplied by Elizabeth Hodgkins DVM – All About Cats Health Center
View website: http://www.yourdiabeticcat.com

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The cost for this procedure will vary depending on where you have the surgery done. Those options will be discussed a bit later in the article. First, here are some good reasons to choose to have your kitten altered.

Whether your cat is an indoor cat or an outdoor cat, there are compelling reasons to choose to have her fixed. Some owners think that if the cat lives strictly indoors, that having her fixed is not necessary. If you consider the health benefits, however, it’s clear to see that spaying benefits all cats.

Indoor cats

• Health Benefits – Cats that are spayed have a much lower incidence of ovarian cysts, infections, feline AIDS and certain cancers. While there is some health benefit regardless of the age when the cat is spayed, to get the maximum benefit, the cat should be altered prior to its first heat cycle.
• Less Aggressive – Cats that are spayed tend to be less aggressive than their intact peers. Having a cat that is less likely to scratch, bite and hiss makes life much more pleasant for everyone.
• Less Racket – Every cat owner is familiar with the ear piercing crying that goes on and on and on while your cat is in heat. Having your cat spayed will end this incessant crying.

Outdoor cats

Outdoor cats enjoy all of the benefits above, but when a cat lives outdoors there is another factor to consider as well.

• Unwanted pregnancies – Millions of cats are euthanized at shelters each year because there simply are not enough homes for them. As a responsible pet owner, you should do all you can to help stop more unwanted animals from being born.

Choosing to spay your cat is one of the most responsible decisions you can make as a pet owner. Again, having your cat fixed prior to her first heat cycle will provide the maximum health benefits.

By now you have decided to fix your cat, and it’s time to talk about the expense of doing so. You’ll be happy to know that this is not an expensive procedure, and there are options that will allow you to have your kitten spayed without having to pay full price like you will at the vet’s office.

While there are benefits to having your kitten fixed at the vet’s office, some people would have to struggle financially to make that happen. Below are a few options, along with an estimated price of what it will cost to have your kitten spayed at each of them.

SPCA and Other Local Shelters

Most local SPCA’s offer some sort of low-cost spay and neuter program. Usually, there are no income qualification guidelines for these programs, and anyone is free to use the services provided. The downside is that you do not know the vet that will perform the surgery. While a phone number is provided in the case you have follow-up questions, the personal face to face interaction with the doctor isn’t going to be there. Also, no pain medicine is typically provided other than the shot given right after surgery. Still, this is a great option for people on a tight budget.

Estimated cost: Between $50-$60

Other Low Cost Programs

Other organizations, such as PETA, often offer their own low-cost clinics. The price is typically about the same as at the clinics offered by the SPCA.

Also, some cities offer free spay and neuter programs for residents who meet income guidelines. The guidelines vary widely between locations, but if you qualify these programs are wonderful for people who want to have their animals altered but simply cannot afford the procedure.

Talk to your local animal control office to see if any such programs are offered in your community.

Estimated cost – Between $0-$60

Private Low-Cost Clinics

Some pet supply stores offer their own version of a low-cost clinic. Typically, a vet visits the location a couple of times per month and offers a variety of discounted health care services such as shots, deworming and spay and neuter services. While less expensive than a visit to the vet’s office, these clinics typically cost a bit more than the services offered by the SPCA and other shelters. While those organizations are non-profits, this type of clinic is a private business. Still, it’s a lower cost option that still gives you the option of requesting pain medicine and allows you to meet the vet face to face.

Estimated Cost: Between $80-$100.

Vet’s Office

Because your vet’s office likely has equipment that is not available at the other locations, this is the best place for your kitten to be should rare complications arise during the procedure. Also, taking your pets to one place for all of their health care needs allows one doctor to get to know you and your cats. This is beneficial in the long run as the vet will be familiar with your pet’s entire history. The other benefit of having your cat spayed by your vet is that this is probably the only place that will provide pain medicine for you to give your cat for a day or two after surgery. The other places normally provide your pet with a shot before she leaves, but that medicine wears off after about 12 hours. For some pets, that isn’t long enough.

Estimated cost: Between $125-$200

Now that your question, “What does it cost to get a kitten spayed?” has been answered, it’s now up to you to choose the location that will be most beneficial for both you and your pet. With so many options, you won’t have to put it off, and that’s good for the health of your cat!

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Female cats have heat patterns that last between seven and twenty-one days. If the animal is not impregnated, her heat patterns may become irregular, with periods of non-heat becoming brief, often as short as two days. When experiencing estrus, or heat, a female cat may make loud, howling sounds, and rub themselves along the floor with the tail raised. Heat cycles are most common between January and September, when the amount of daylight is longer, but can occur at any time. Seasonal reproduction is encouraged by the warmer temperatures as well.

Once a suitable male has encountered the female, copulation quickly ensues, as usually results in a pregnancy. The duration of gestation in cats lasts from fifty-six to seventy-one days, with the average length being sixty-one days. The average number of litters that a female can produce within one year is three to five, with the average litter containing four to six kittens.

The birthing process is called queening, and preparations for this process should begin several weeks ahead of time. Giving the female a box in which to birth in should be done, and it should be lined with blankets or towels. At queening, the box should be lined with newspapers in order to aid in soaking up any fluids.

There are three stages of feline labor. In the first stage, the cervix will soften and dilate, with the animal moaning or panting. Restless behavior may be noted, as well as frequent trips to the litter box. The second stage begins when the female begins to push out her first kitten, which takes the longest to deliver. This first birth will dilate the cervix in preparation for the remaining kittens. Each kitten should take between fifteen and thirty minutes to be born. The delivery of the placenta is the third stage of delivery.

At birth, each kitten is born within his own amniotic sac. If this sac is not broken by the birthing process, the mother will break it, as well as sever the umbilical cord. After all of the kittens are delivered, the mother also eats the placenta, which stimulates lactation. Soon after birth, the mother will lick her kittens; this helps to clean and dry the new babies, as well as stimulate their circulation.

At birth, the kitten is blind, deaf, and helpless. They lack distinctive color patterns, and some do not acquire their unique markings until several weeks later. The mother will nurse her kittens until she begins to wean them, usually around four months. At this point, additional food should be introduced to the kitten. Hard chow formulated specifically for kittens can be given. It may be softened with water to make chewing more comfortable. Cow’s milk should not be given to kittens, as most will develop lactose intolerance as they grow, and the cow’s milk will cause gastric problems.

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How Do You Know Your Cat is Pregnant?

Female cats that are not spayed go into heat for anywhere between five and fourteen days during mating season. Most cats mate during the warmer months. While a female cat is in heat she will exhibit strange behaviors such as putting her arse in anyone’s face who will look, secreting fluids from her hindparts, and making strange sounds that don’t resemble normal meowing. She is restless because her instinctual needs aren’t being met. This process can occur every two or three weeks if the cat isn’t mated with another cat. Don’t think that this will ever end. The only way to stop this behavior is to spay her, or give her a male companion.

Once a cat in heat is “satisfied” by a male, and becomes pregnant, she will quickly go out of heat, usually within 24 hours. Once pregnant, the heat periods will end until her babies are born.

Signs that your female cat is pregnant won’t appear until approximately two or three weeks after conception. You can look at her nipples and see them becoming engorged, settling into a deep pink color. Soon you will see her abdomen enlarging. She will eat more and demand more food. Some cats even experience morning sickness in the same way that human women do. One big indication is the fact that she isn’t going into heat anymore. Doctors can’t take a blood test as they do with humans to determine pregnancy beyond a shadow of a doubt. They can only make a diagnosis by feeling the cat’s abdomen after about three or four weeks. At approximately six weeks, x-rays can be taken to view the babies developing in their mother’s uterus.

Length of Gestation

The gestation period usually lasts for approximately 65 days. During this time the female grows larger and larger by day. If a cat is still pregnant after 69 days, it may be time to visit a veterinarian for professional advice. The same action should be taken if the cat begins the birthing process too soon.

Personality and Behavior of Your Cat During Gestation

Your cat will mostly likely become nicer than usual during her pregnancy. She is content because she is carrying out her duties as a female cat. She will seek more affection and attention from humans and possibly the other cats in the home. Don’t shun a pregnant cat—give her the attention she desires and try to make her as comfortable as possible.

Your cat will also begin sniffing around the house for a secluded safe place to spend most of her time. She’s doing that because she is trying to prepare to give birth to her children, and she certainly does not want to do that out in the open in a high traffic area of the home. She will also rest more—you’d probably sleep more too if you had eight babies weighing you down!

How Do You Know Your Cat is Ready to Give Birth?

When a pregnant cat has neared the end of her gestation period, she will become very restless and find it hard to find a comfortable position in which to relax. She will usually hide from others regularly. Occasionally you may find a wet spot here or there from the cat not being able to make it to the litter box. Its enlarged uterus is pressing up against the bladder making it harder to hold its urine.

During the cat’s pregnancy, it is advised that you provide a special covered bed or box especially for her to sleep and relax in. This is the box where the cat would ideally have its babies. You know that she is ready to have her babies when she begins howling, and her temperature drops. You will see a milky discharge from her nipples that is a sure indication that she is ready to give birth. Soon thereafter she will begin pushing out babies. If she hasn’t made it to the box, try to make her as comfortable as possible. In some cases she may have found a really good hiding place to give birth, and you didn’t even know it was happening. Don’t be surprised if you open your closet one morning and see five kitties plus mama laying there looking up at you.

Post-Natal Care

After you cat has given birth, you will want to still handle her with kid gloves. It is recommended that you take the mother and her kittens to the vet for a check-up and to get the queen the proper medical care she needs. Once home, always provide her with fresh, clean water and food. During the nursing period she is losing a lot of energy to the several kittens that are sucking the life out of her. Some experts suggest giving the mother food made for kittens (along with her young after they have been weaned) so that she can build up her stamina. Kitten food has increased levels of protein, vitamins, and minerals that she and her young need to get strong. You will also want to give the mother and her kittens some space. Provide them with a safe, quiet environment. Ask your vet for additional advice on how to help the mother cat get comfortable and active again.

The gestation period for cats is relatively short, only about a couple of months. During this time there are many changes your “queen” cat will experience. Personality changes are common, so you shouldn’t be alarmed. Things that can be considered out of the ordinary are excessive discharges, bad vaginal odor, and discharges with a greenish-yellow color. If anything is happening out of the ordinary, visit your veterinary immediately to assure a safe and healthy gestation and birth.

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As the kitten begins to grow, questions about how to wean a bottle fed kitten will arise. There is a right and a wrong way to do it. If the weaning process is not done correctly, it can cause health and emotional problems for the cat.

Properly weaning a kitten is not difficult; you just need to know what you are doing. In general, kittens will need to be bottle fed for between four and six weeks. That being said, it is important to remember that there is no exact timetable for kittens any more than there is for a human baby who is going from bottle to solid foods.

The first step in properly weaning a kitten is to begin to look for signs that the kitten is ready for that. When you are bottle feeding do you notice the kitten chewing on the nipple? If so, it may be time to start weaning.

Try putting a drop or two of the kitten formula on your finger. If the kitten seems interested and licks it off, then you can start weaning her.

One thing to keep in mind before beginning is that weaning is a process that is going to require a bit of patience on your part. No one would expect a baby to go from bottle to solid food in one day, and neither should that fast of a transition be expected from a cat.

Here are some tips for a successful transition process.

• Begin to think about weaning at four weeks of age. Do not attempt to wean the kitten any sooner than this. At the four week mark, you can begin to look for signs (such as the nipple chewing mentioned above) that the kitten is ready.
• When you first introduce the kitten to food outside of the bottle, you will need to make it as appealing as possible. Be sure that the formula you place in the bowl is warm so it will be more appetizing to the kitten.
• Use a shallow bowl or a saucer. If the bowl is deep, it will just be one more roadblock between your kitten easily getting to the food.
• To get the kitten used to the idea of eating from a bowl, try starting the feeding with the bottle. Then after a very short time take the bottle away and set the kitten down in front of a saucer or bowl with formula. Some kittens get the idea right away, others need more time. Just be patient.
• Don’t try to make the transition all at once. Instead, continue to feed from the bottle at each feeding, but then take the bottle away and encourage the cat to continue the feeding from the bowl. Over time, decrease the amount you are feeding from the bottle and increase the amount the kitten is taking from the bowl. During this transition time be sure that the kitten is still consuming the amount of formula she needs. Whether she is getting from the bottle or the bowl, it is important that the kitten gets the correct amount of formula.
• Once the kitten is used to looking to the bowl or saucer for her formula (and this make take some time during which you will need to continue bottle feeding), you can begin to introduce soft food. At this stage of the cat’s life, nutrition is very important. Talk to your vet about which food to use to be sure that the young kitten is going to continue to get all of the nutrients her body needs.
• You know how adorable it is when a baby begins eating? He makes a huge mess with his food, right? Well, expect the same thing from a kitten. It is a good idea to put a towel or some type of mat underneath the food dish to make clean up easier.
• Typically, weaning a bottle fed kitten takes about two weeks. Again, no two kittens are the same, so trying to get them to conform to a timetable is futile if they are not yet ready to be weaned.

Here are few “don’ts” when weaning a kitten.

• Do not shove the kitten’s nose into the food. This can cause the food to go up the kitten’s nose resulting in health problems.
• Do not yell or get angry with a kitten. Remember, the kitten is trying to master something new. It is a baby. Be patient.
• Do not think that prolonged diarrhea is normal. It isn’t, and it can be life threatening to a kitten. If the kitten has diarrhea lasting more than 24 hours contact your vet immediately.
• Do not think something is wrong with the kitten if she takes a lot longer to wean. All cats are different. Just be patient. If you do suspect that something is wrong then contact your vet.

Saving the life of a kitten by giving so much of your time to bottle feed it is a wonderful thing to do. Weaning a bottle fed kitten is just one more step in that kitten becoming a self-sufficient adult cat.

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What does it mean to get your cat neutered?

Neutering an animal means to have its testicles removed. Castration, or being neutered, keeps the animal from being able to procreate. This also causes behavioral changes by reducing the amount of male sex hormones in the animal’s system. A cat that has been neutered is considered ‘altered’ due to the removal of their testes and those who have not been neutered are ‘intact’ because they still have their testicles.

The question of whether or not this is a necessary procedure is almost always answered with a definite ‘yes’ although there are people who choose not to have their pets spayed or neutered. Some are due to cost, others are due to the belief that their cat is an indoor cat so it doesn’t matter and still others are due to their own preferences. There are always going to be people (often men) who compare their own preferences to stay intact to the kitten’s situation.

Behavioral Effects

When a male cat matures he can smell a female cat in heat even if she is several houses, and even blocks, away. This is frustrating to the cat because he cannot get to the female and act on his natural urges to mate. He can become irritable, start spraying his territory (which happens to be your home) with his scent (which happens to be really strong, foul smelling urine) to show his dominance and hopefully attract the females that he can smell going into heat.

When the cat doesn’t get to mate he can become restless, more irritable, aggressive and even evasive and downright sneaky. Keeping him indoors is more difficult than keeping teenage human boys away from girls. With a human teen you are able to give him magazines and computer games to occupy his time. You can’t do this with your cat; there is nothing on your cat’s mind but getting to the females that he can smell as they go in heat and you have nothing you can distract him with.

When the door to your home is open he may make a run for it, even though he has never attempted to get outdoors before. He may even hate the outdoors, but his urges to mate are all that are on his mind anymore. He may turn to sulking when he isn’t trying to get outdoors.

Once is never enough

After your cat sneaks out of the house and finds himself a female cat once, or after you allow him “one fling” before having him “fixed” you will find that once is never enough. It isn’t like the potato chips that he can eat one of and then show incredible willpower forever afterwards. Once he has turned on his biological drive to mate and perpetuate his species he cannot turn it off. He now has the taste and can’t go back.

A sexually frustrated cat can be moody and destructive. Your home becomes his territory and is sprayed on a routine basis. He attempts to leave the house every time he smells a female in heat in the neighborhood. This can cause him to end up injured in the middle of the road since tomcats looking for females rarely remember to look both ways for traffic before they cross the road.

Being safe is better than being sorry

If you have your kitten neutered between 2 and 6 months of age you can keep from having to deal with a tomcat on the prowl. Many vets don’t want to operate until shortly before puberty to make sure your cat has reached his full adult size before removing his testicles. The surgery causes a reduction in hormones, which can affect growth. Once your cat has reached his adult size you can safely have him neutered.

Man’s best friend

So, what does it cost to get a kitten neutered? Actually, the rewards you reap are numerous and the costs are miniscule in comparison. Your kitten will become more affectionate and he will turn the energy he would put toward chasing women into his relationship with his owner. Every waking hour that isn’t being taken up by bathing and sunning himself are going to be used to show you affection making him man’s best friend.

Saving money when having your cat neutered

If you want to save money on the surgery you can contact your local humane society or your animal rescue groups. They often have information on special clinics that are available to help cover the costs of having animals spayed and neutered. With the pet population problem that we currently face there are many groups that are willing to help responsible pet owners get their animals altered to keep the population down.

You can also contact your local veterinarian’s office to see what he charges. Often this may cost you more than a non-profit group but since this is the person who is going to help you with your animal’s care you may as well keep the vet in the loop when you are treating your pet.

Fines, Fees and Other Hidden Costs to Consider

In some areas not having your cat neutered can cause you to have fees and fines assessed. The laws vary in different areas so knowing your local laws is important. Often fees are lower if your animal is altered than they are for intact animals.

While it seems that allowing him to keep his testicles is humane, it really isn’t the case. If you aren’t going to breed your cat then you are better off to have it neutered. Giving him the ability to keep his testicles but not letting him breed can cause frustration as he is having the urges and cannot act upon them. He can even start to become neurotic.

So, in the end the question isn’t what does it cost to get a kitten neutered. The important question to keep in mind is what it costs to not have your cat neutered. A responsible cat owner will have their cats neutered between 2 and 6 months of age to make sure they have a long healthy and happy life. This helps your cat to bond with people and to become more cuddly and loving.

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There are no physical changes in the queen like there are in the itch or dog. There are only behavioral changes to watch for.

Some of the signs that your cat is in heat are:

• Affection. Your pet will become more affectionate. She will rub her hind quarters against you, the furniture, or other pets in the household.
• Vocal Cues. The queen will start “calling” out. This loud vocalization may last for several days.
• Mating Position. Your cat will assume the mating position, which includes head down, forelegs bent, rear quarters raised to expose the perineum, with the tail raised and held to the side of the body. Her rear legs will tread rhythmically, as if walking in place.
• Spraying. The female may begin to spray various areas with a scented fluid.

The number of heat cycles that your cat experiences will depend on her. The usual breeding season lasts from January through September, brought on by warmer temperatures and longer periods of daylight. Heat cycles can last a few days or a few weeks, with fifteen to twenty-two days being most common, and will return as often as necessary in order to fulfill their purpose, which is to result in a pregnant feline. If the cat is bred, the heat cycle will last only four days. It is not uncommon for estrus to return as soon as two days after the last cycle. Heat cycles in cats begin anywhere from four to nine months of age and continue for the life of the cat, or until she is bred or spayed.

Cats in heat can e very annoying creatures, especially if they are housecats. Spaying your female pet is the best idea if you do not intend her to be bred. Domestic housecats will inevitably try to escape when in heat, many times resulting in a lost, injured, or fatal feline. Spaying can reduce this risk, as well as prevent unwanted pregnancies. Breeding can also cause infection and trauma to your pet, so this, too, can e avoided.

Spaying your pet is humane in other ways, as well. It can prevent medical problems, such as mammary tumors from forming later in life, and protects against cancers of the uterus and ovaries. Your pet will also be more likely to stay home. Their temperaments may also improve y becoming less restless and agitated.

The only other alternative to spaying your female cat is to have your veterinarian give the animal hormones to stop the estrus cycle. Contact your veterinarian to talk about this treatment option.

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For outdoor cats that are not fixed, it is pretty near a certainty that they are going to become pregnant. That is why it is always a good idea to have your cat spayed or neutered if they spend any time at all outdoors. Some experts recommend that even indoor cats be spayed or neutered as it provides overall health benefits to the cat as well as helping to cut down on the ever growing population of unwanted kittens, many of which wind up at animal shelters around the country.

If, however, your cat is not fixed, it is a good idea to keep your eyes open for the signs that she might be pregnant so that you don’t end up with the same kind of surprise as Camille.

Keep in mind that cats as young as four month old can become pregnant. There are more health risks involved when the cat is that young, so special attention from your vet would be required in order to ensure the health of your cat and her kittens.

Change in the Nipples
One of the first signs to look for is a change in the size or appearance of the cat’s nipples. Particularly look for the color of the nipples. If they appear to be more pink than normal, that is a sign that the cat is pregnant. Of course, if your cat has very thick fur, this is not something that will be noticed very easily.

No Heat Cycle
If you notice that your cat has not gone into heat again following her last heat cycle, that is a good sign that she is pregnant. Cats that are not pregnant will usually go into heat within weeks of the previous heat cycle.

A Bigger Appetite
If you notice that your cat is eating more than usual, that is a sign that she may be pregnant. Because she is eating for herself and her babies, your vet may suggest a specific diet. That is just one of the reasons that it is important to learn of your cat’s pregnancy as soon as possible.

Morning Sickness
Pregnant cats are subject to hormonal changes that are similar to those that humans realize when they are expecting. For this reason, the same type of morning sickness that affects people, can also affect some cats. If you notice that your cat is especially lacking in energy or is not eating the same amount she usually eats in the morning, this could be a sign of pregnancy.

Personality Changes
If your normally aloof cat suddenly craves your attention that is a signal that she may be expecting. Watch for any change in personality as it may be a cause of hormonal changes brought on my pregnancy.

While the early stages of pregnancy may bring out the sweet side of your cat, in the time just before she is to give birth, you may notice that she is a bit more grumpy than usual. Also, you may see that she spends more time grooming, particularly in the genital area.

Change in Size of Abdomen
One of the most obvious signs that your cat may be pregnant is an increase in the size of her abdomen. It is not good to rely solely on this sign of pregnancy, however, as it will not manifest itself until several weeks into the pregnancy. Your cat should be seen by a vet as early in the pregnancy as possible. That is why it is important to watch for all signs of pregnancy rather than relying on this one.

Nesting
If you notice that your cat is “setting up housekeeping” in a corner of your home, under the bed, in a closet or in any other out of way spot, that may be because she is looking for the perfect spot in which to have her kittens.

Keep in mind that cats may exhibit signs of pregnancy, but not actually be pregnant. False pregnancies in cats are more common than some might think. If you suspect your cat may be pregnant, the only way to find out for sure is to have her examined by your vet.

Get to the vet as soon as possible if you think your cat may be pregnant. Just as for people, there are certain precautions and other medical advice that is important to the health of your cat and her new kittens.

Responsible pet owners will never allow their pet to become pregnant unless they are 100% sure that they will able to find wonderful homes for every kitten born in the litter. Unless you plan to breed or show your cat, the best course of action is to have your pet spayed or neutered as soon as she is old enough for the procedure.

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